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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hollister Mo
Posts: 137
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New Engine Sitting
I have rebuilt the 250 six for my truck project. Its never been started. It has already been sitting for almost a year and will probably be sitting for a few more as I finish the truck. It is basically a long block with the tins in place. I am slowly working on intake, exhaust, accessories and of course the rest of the truck. I keep it covered and I have oiled the inside well with assembly lube and engine oil. I wd40'd the bare parts of inside to prevent rust. It does have the clutch and trans attached to it.
Should I occasionally turn the motor over? Should I fill it with oil and prime the oil system occasionally? Should I install the starter and use the starter to turn it over while i spin the oil pump? Whats the best thing to do here? Last edited by bubbasimms; 04-03-2020 at 01:48 AM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere"
Posts: 2,219
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Re: New Engine Sitting
I just installed a 350 that had been on the stand and in a plastic bag for more than five years, no problems. Pull the plugs and fog each cylinder and reinstall the plugs. If the motor is kept inside a garage just plug all the openings, exhaust, intake, valve cover, water ports, etc. and then bag the motor in plastic. The better you seal it the less chance for moisture, mice, bugs and dust to find their way inside the motor...
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Michael of the clan Hill, "Two Seventy Two's" 71 1-ton Dually 350 4-Speed 71 C/50 Grain Truck, 350 Split-Axle 4-Speed 02 3/4 ton Express 14 Indian Chief Vintage 1952 Ford 8N, "Only Ford Allowed On The Property" ![]() "Be American, Buy American" ![]() |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 598
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Re: New Engine Sitting
I wouldn’t do anything more than pull the plugs and fog the cylinders. Assembly lube is stickier than oil and more likely to stay in place while the engine sits protecting it better. Priming the oil system will displace the assembly lube with oil and turning the engine over won’t really help anything either.
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1967 C10 LWB 250 6cyl 3ott Panaramic cab “Layla” 1967 Camaro 327 ‘glide cruiser “Bailey” |
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#4 |
Just here to tinker
![]() Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 3,692
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Re: New Engine Sitting
I like to roll stored engines over by hand, maybe once every 6 months. No need to run oil pump. The assembly lube will stay in place with just rolling by hand. I roll it over one or two revolutions, just so the piston rings don't sit in the same place in case any moisture does get in there. Then I fog cylinders and wait another 6 months. Whatever you're doing, I'm sure the engine will be fine.
Just tape off all entry points: intake ports, exhaust ports, etc. I like to use shrink-wrap tape as it is designed to not leave a residue even after long periods of time.
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78 C10 SWB Diesel #1 (wrecked)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...1978+silverado 78 C10 SWB Diesel #2 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=650751 60 GMC Suburban (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=445526 60 GMC 1000 (sold)http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=298235 67 GMC 1500 (sold) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=803695 86 Suburban(summer unit) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=810697 88 Suburban 4x4(winter unit)https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...25#post8900725 |
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#5 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,110
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Basic WD40 won't prevent against rust for more than 3 to 4 months at best. Depending on temperature and humidity. Use a more specific rust/corrosion prevention product for long term prevention. My favorite is Fluid Film for non electrical items.
Nice looking manifolds. They remind me of the ones on a Pontiac Sprint OHC6.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Eastern Oregon
Posts: 2,333
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Congratulations on keeping that little 250. One of the finest GM engine designs. The small block gets all the glory but a well built 250 is a wonderful alternative. I recently went to a show and saw a Camero with numerous folks looking under the hood, yep 250 six. Some commented “Never Seen One “.
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71 C-20 07 Magnum RT AWD |
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#7 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 7,257
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Quote:
With your 2 Bbl configuration, you may be favoring 4-5-6, when you open the throttle. I had to saw off the lower part of the Holley throttle lever -- it's a kickdown for a Ford automatic, anyway, and I have a Chevy w/ SM465 -- that clears the intake. I solved linkage issues by finally going to a cable throttle from the accelerator pedal [GM '72-type] to an aftermarket cable to the carb. I got 25 years out of the Holley. Then, after a rebuild of a 292, the carb wouldn't settle down. I replaced it with a 500 CFM Edelbrock 1404. Runs great now. Some good advice about leaving the black moly assembly lube in place. I would put old spark plugs in the holes to keep them closed off and maybe blue 3M masking tape on the valve cover holes to keep dust and critters out. A ~1'' cork stopper would seal up the distributor hole. Good luck on your build. ![]()
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#8 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hollister Mo
Posts: 137
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Lots of good advice, thanks everyone.
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#9 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Hollister Mo
Posts: 137
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Quote:
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#10 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 7,257
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Re: New Engine Sitting
Quote:
In fact on my V8 350 in my other truck I have a phenolic spacer to isolate the carb [600 CFM Carter AFB] from engine heat and prevent vapor lock. So go figure.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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