Stripped Threads in Dana 60 Rear Axle Wheel Hub

[mickey_bigdaddy]

I was reinstalling my axle into the wheel hub after changing the seal and used the torque specs listed below. I torqued to 115 lb-ft and stripped, may have cracked, one of the threads in the wheel hub. I guess this wheel hub is trashed.

First, what is the correct torque for the axle/hub bolts shown by the arrow so I don't do this again? And what are my options for getting another wheel hub? Can I buy these at the local parts stores? I would think not since it is so old.

- 1972 C20 2WD.
- Dana 30360 Floating Rear End

[hamjet]

Hi, I'll take a stab at it, if it were mine I'd get a Helicoil kit for that size bolt and drill it and Helicoil it...

[75gmc454]

115 seems way too high of a torque number for those small bolts. The lugs are listed at 120.

[mickey_bigdaddy]

Originally Posted by 75gmc454

115 seems way too high of a torque number for those small bolts. The lugs are listed at 120.

I thought so too but, keep in mind that those 8 bolts on the the hub are the only hardware that is holding the axle in place. So it made sense to me but I don't understand why it would damage the threads.

[SS Tim]

Where did you get those numbers from???
Might want to download some factory manuals.

Here are the factory numbers I dug up for Mister-B for his Dana 5500 lb (60) axle. As I recall they were hard to find.

[mickey_bigdaddy]

Thanks for the help. I found the 72 Chevy manual online and it does confirm the 60 lb-ft you stated above. I got the 115 lb-ft numbers from the experts that publish the specs in various forums. Note to self, don't believe everything you read.

That 60 lb-ft seems like it will keep those bolts from stripping the hub.

I downloaded the Dana 60 manual but it referred the reader back to the Truck manual for those torque specs. See NOTE from that Dana manual below.

[mike16]

Originally Posted by mickey_bigdaddy

I thought so too but, keep in mind that those 8 bolts on the the hub are the only hardware that is holding the axle in place. So it made sense to me but I don't understand why it would damage the threads.

yea but theres eight of them and thats plenty of hardware to distribute a load and include a margine of safety.

its not how tight you get the hardware that ensures the security of the axle but the number of bolts and thier diameter and strength.

most people dont get that and way over torque them. I think 115 is too much. sometimes the specs in the manual can be wrong, othertimes its the muppet you end up cleaning up after who done it. I know one muppet who saw iol seapage from behind that same hardware and over tourqued them to stop the leak!!!!!

if its just stripped out try a heli coil. if its cracked through to the outside, I dont know what to say... maybe a heli coil and some loc tight. while you shop around for a new hub, Bigger trucks use studs in these applications. wonder what they know that we dont.

put a jack stand under that corner of the truck so it dont fall off in the drive way, dont park any thing next to it cause it might fly off and damage that too. keep kids away from it like its a split rim. it could fly off and..... Just kidding

I would always be watching to see if that wheel is comming off, It wont but I'm OCD that way. The axle wont even come loos because the other hardware is still holding it on.... and dont go and be tweaking them a little tighter either cause thats what did it in to begin with.

adjust your rear view mirror so you can watch for when the wheel or axles go flyin off into on comming traffic........Just kidding.

[bigmac73]

i have to agree with the heli coil insert, you still have 7 more bolts holding it on if you can not get a insert to work, but i would diffenatley pull the assembly off and fix it on the work bench not in place

[quick60]

keep in mind that those 8 bolts on the the hub are the only hardware that is holding the axle in place.

Thats why there are 8 bolts. Thats a lota bolts.

I am glad you brought that up because that is next to the last on my to do list.

On your truck was there a gasket between the axle flange and the hub?

[cadillacart]

resurrecting another old thread because this info is HARD to find. :-)

Regarding the aluminum gaskets, Ive heard of folks putting a thin layer of gasket sealer and some not.

Any pros and cons to this?

[57taskforce]

I can't speak for a 60 but with the gm 14 bolts I've always used black silicone on the flange with no issues. I'd think it would be the same on the 60 as well.

[swamp rat]

Just get the stuff meant to be used with gear lube, i think its grey but don't quote me on that, it will say on the blister pack. Only use a very thin film as its going to extrude out when torquing anyway.

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Just get the stuff meant to be used with gear lube, i think its grey but don't quote me on that, it will say on the blister pack. Only use a very thin film as its going to extrude out when torquing anyway.

Ditto

[cadillacart]

Thanks both!

[ochre 72]

Found this thread while looking for proper torque spec. For $3.00 each, I used these:
**

[mike16]

Originally Posted by ochre 72

Found this thread while looking for proper torque spec. For $3.00 each, I used these:
**

made in the united states? where is that? I cant find it anywhere in an atlas.

In many eaton rears I have disassembled and reassembled. presumably correctly, there was no gaskets used or needed, it did have an aluminium shim like part that functioned as a gasket.

[special-K]

Just like lug pattern, these axle flange bolts are on the same pattern on all the GM full-floating rears. So, yeah, 14-bolt flange gaskets will work.

[Acorn]

I have never reused the aluminum gaskets. Every one that I got was close but no cigar. After several trips to the part store, it turns out that the parts guy didn't know how to read the words at the bottom of the description that says "except Dana 60"
Like stated above, I just use the grey Permatex gear oil rtv. Been on 4+ years with no leak. And I'm missing a flange bolt too!