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Old 09-13-2024, 05:54 PM   #1
pontiacvince
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Electrical

I've been chasing some electrical gremlins in my '71 Suburban for a while now. My brake lights stopped working. I tried adjusting the stop light switch. I've checked fuses. I've checked bulbs. I even bought a new brake light switch. Unplugged the wire from the old one, plugged the new one in and while just hanging from the plug THEY WORKED! I installed the switch and they quit working again. Continuity is good on both the new and old switches. Any help is welcome.
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Old 09-13-2024, 11:06 PM   #2
RustyPile
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Re: Electrical

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Originally Posted by pontiacvince View Post
I've been chasing some electrical gremlins in my '71 Suburban for a while now. My brake lights stopped working. I tried adjusting the stop light switch. I've checked fuses. I've checked bulbs. I even bought a new brake light switch. Unplugged the wire from the old one, plugged the new one in and while just hanging from the plug THEY WORKED! I installed the switch and they quit working again. Continuity is good on both the new and old switches. Any help is welcome.
I highlighted a sentence in your post.. That statement absolutely proves the wiring, switch, bulbs, and fuse are all working as they should.. No need for any more testing.. If you adjusted the brake light switch, your procedure was flawed.. Consult the 1971 Factory Service Manual, section 12, page 3 for the proper procedure..

Last edited by RustyPile; 09-13-2024 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 09-14-2024, 05:01 PM   #3
pontiacvince
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Re: Electrical

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Originally Posted by RustyPile View Post
I highlighted a sentence in your post.. That statement absolutely proves the wiring, switch, bulbs, and fuse are all working as they should.. No need for any more testing.. If you adjusted the brake light switch, your procedure was flawed.. Consult the 1971 Factory Service Manual, section 12, page 3 for the proper procedure..
The switch should work now just hanging from the plug like it did when I first bought it, but it doesn't. Continuity still tests good.
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Old 09-15-2024, 08:57 AM   #4
HO455
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Re: Electrical

I would do a voltage check at this point. Put the black lead on a known good ground. The red lead to the one of the switch terminals and check voltage. Then do the same for the other terminal. One terminal should have battery voltage on it the other zero volts.

Now do the checks with the brake switch operated or closed. You should see battery voltage on both sides of the switch now. If the voltage drops significantly then you have a bad connection between the switch and the fuse block buss work.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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