The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > Info Center > FAQ Truck Tech > Engine and Drivetrain

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
Old 03-21-2012, 12:35 PM   #1
MrSchaeferPants
Registered User
 
MrSchaeferPants's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: JBLM, WA
Posts: 153
Post Bendix Stromberg WW Rebuild


1968 GMC C20 305 V6
Bendix Stromberg Model WW 2bbl - 23-195a


When I purchased the truck, the PO said the carb needed a rebuild, and after my last couple fill-ups I was getting 7.9-8.4mpg. It was hard to start, hesitation off idle, flooring it didn't do anything, sometimes it caught. It was wet off the base of the carb, at the front. Not all of this is just the carb, it needs a full tune up, but I wanted to start here. This will never get good mpg, but high 7s is not good, I'm hoping to average 10 when I'm done, hopefully a bit more when I complete a full tune up.

This is temporary at that, I do plan on the HEI and Holley upgrade, but until then, the money I'll spend on the carb kit will pay for itself in a couple fill ups, if I get my 10mpg. Keep in mind, I'm averaging 8mpg, driving like an old man. There's no hot rodding a BB V6 with SM465

Took me a bit, but finally I found a carb kit at Mike's Carburetor for about $37, spent another $40 on carb cleaner and compressed air cans as I have no air compressor. I'm no expert on carbs, I'm sure there's a lot I'm not doing right, I have no manual other than the sheet that came with the rebuild kit with an exploded view, and a few adjustment sections. I'd much prefer a book, like when I did my 4bbl Rochester. Oh well.

So lets start.

Kit number 651 from Mike's Carburetor. Didn't know they were right here in WA. Ordered Sunday, got it in the mail Tuesday.


Remove the Accelerator Linkage, Return Spring, and Choke Cable


Remove the Fuel Line, mine was stuck, I had no line wrench, so I removed it at the hose from the fuel filter, took it apart once I got it on the bench.


Remove the Vac. Line to the Distributor. Behind the carb you can see the other holder for the choke cable, the bracket remains on the carb.


I took the fuel line off by removing the fitting at the carb, then put it in my vise and got it off the rest of the way after PB blasting it.


Remove the fuel fitting, you can see the needle poking out the carb.


Remove the choke cable bracket, this one screw is one of the screws to remove the air horn.


remove the screw to the bracket, the front goes to the pump plunger and is held by a clip, the screw was reverse thread. The other part of the linkage is hooked by a small cotter pin, both pins come with the kit. I removed it all at once.




Remove the rest of the linkage, note the small spring that has to be removed.


Remove all the screws on the air horn.




Remove the Pump Plunger Assembly.


Under the Plunger is the larger of the two check balls.


You can see your float, needle, and the spring that retains the float.


The spring was a PITA to get out, a hooked pick would have made it easier, I mangled mine, after I saw a new one comes in the kit


All three pieces removed, you can see the little spring mangled up. I soaked the float to see if it had leaks, as of right now, it doesn't. The float of course does not come in the kit, but the float retaining spring and needle do.


A bit crudy in there, its worse than the photo shows.




Flip 'er over and start removing the Throttle Body Assembly, retained by 4 phillips screws.




Flip 'er back over again and Unscrew the Pump Discharge Nozzle. Ya I do things bass ackwards.


Pointing at the gasket below it, wish I had a better picture, it's a triangular piece. Below it, where I'm pointing is your 2nd check ball.


The underside of the Main Body, remove both Main Discharge jet plugs. Note both have a crush washer


Oh ya, forgot to take the vac line fitting off.


Remove the Power by-pass jet. I believe the gasket was not put in the last time this was rebuilt.


Remove both Idle Needle Valves from the base of the Throttle Body Assembly.


Here's everything in order, from the top left, laid out like you'd read a book.


Model Stamp 23-195a




A blurry picture of the Vacuum Power Piston Assembly. This does not get removed, just take care of it.


You can see it's stamped/sealed.


Now get to cleaning! I'm soaking the parts, and I'll be using air duster cans, since I don't have an air compressor, to blow out all of the passages.
__________________
68 GMC C2500 - 305 V6 - 4spd

Last edited by augie; 05-08-2012 at 01:30 AM.
MrSchaeferPants is offline  
 

Bookmarks

Tags
305 v6, model ww, rebuild, stromberg


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com