Question about windshield install

[saxart]

I'm going to be installing a windshield in my '70 this weekend and was wondering if it is possible to install the windshield, then later sneak some urethane between the gasket and the pinch weld if it had some leaks once the install is done? (I hear they like to leak near the upper corners)

I've never installed a windshield before, so I'm thinking it would be nice if I wasn't dealing with urethane all over everything while trying to finish the install. For what it's worth, I'll be using a brand new 'Precision' brand windshield gasket for the install.

[BugzC10]

My wife and I installed a new windshield with a new Precision seal. I was sweating bullets, it has never leaked. I would not recommend using any sealant after installed. Definitly have a helper installing it. Watch the Precision Seal windshield instillation video done on a C10 Truck. I watched it about 5 times. to make sure I got it right.

[TXgearhead67]

I have been thinking about how I'm gonna remove and install window for paint. Thanks bugz for the info. I'm learning a lot in here.

[projectking]

Originally Posted by TXgearhead67

I have been thinking about how I'm gonna remove and install window for paint. Thanks bugz for the info. I'm learning a lot in here.

Cut the inside portion of the seal off with a razor blade and push it out.

[Robznob11]

No sealant, plenty ofsoap and water. Criss cross the ends and over lap them on bottom, set the rubber over the bottom pinch and have at least one but preferably 2 helpers pushing down and keeping pressure. The windshield will have a little flex . Make sure you flatten it out in the seal as you work it in or it will bulge in the middle and seam its not the right size for the opening. It will then blow out of the gasket in the bottom middle as you close the doors with the windows up. ( this is from experience) the only other advice i can give it to pull your rope towards the center of the windshield at all times and use short circular motions, expecially on the top corners. Its tedious but very achievable. In my case my 11year old daughter pulled the rope (with gloves) and me and my 15 year old son applied the pressure. Some people like to slap it...i feel that is not necessary and you risk cracking it. Good luck

[truckster]

The factory recommends butyl rubber sealant at the top corners. I've owned a glass shop and installed many of these windshields, and I've never had to use a sealer. However, if you do have a leak, make sure you use butyl rubber and not urethane.

[Toms67]

I just had mine in stalled . They use Windex spray in the grooves of the gasket. Of course it didn't take them very long. So it didn't dry on them. But I don't like the idea of putting water in the gasket. It will probably be trapped in there. And could cause a rust issue. Just my view. On my back window I put that in using silicone spray. Good luck.

[GR8-68]

I just watched this Precision video Bugzc10 mentioned, very detailed and explained well. Click on the link and watch it a couple times and you and a friend will be ready to install the glass

[halfstep]

To answer your question directly - YES. With gasket style installs, unless there was an obvious issue with the body we addressed sealing or leak prevention AFTER the new windshield was in. *My position based on many installs - other opinions/experiences may differ.

Back in the day...
Working at an auto glass shop on college breaks 35 years ago .... When we had a questionable area with a rubber gasket windshield or just as insurance we would squirt a bead of semi-hardening grey "goop" (like a liquid putty/caulk that would gradually semi solidify)between the rubber and body or rubber and glass, where ever it seemed susceptible. Most often in the corners but sometimes all around as it was very easy slipping the tip of a hand held oil can squirter under the rubber and just running around the windshield. The stuff never really got hard so it was "soft" on the windshield and rubber. It was quick, easy, worked great, and clean up was nothing. A little would often squeeze out from the rubber, but was gone with a wipe of a shop rag. Regularly saw the stuff dried up but pliable when replacing windshields and it never created a problem - we would just clean it out/off and re-apply with new windshield.
I expect there's new and improved products and methods, but thats how we did it "in the day".
BTW - I think like a lot of things it goes back to "time in the saddle", etc. but but we would race/time each other on replacing windshields and these gasket ones were consistently a matter of minutes...!

[Mike_The_Grad]

I just replaced my windshield last weekend on my 72 c10. I picked up a "Precision Replacement Parts" front windshield seal and a Clear windshield from Classic Industries. I was working in the area so I just walked in and picked up a few thing's I knew that I would have had a truck freight charge on. $100 on top of the item price after taxes in addition to other shipping costs was not gonna happen. Lol. I had a local mobile glass guy come to my house and install it. I removed the old shattered glass and vacuumed everything up, after taping off the top of the dash. I didn't cut the seal to remove it, I just used a couples of small prybars and worked them around starting in the middle at the top. I could hear the glass cracking somewhat but it was already shattered. The glass guy showed up an hour and a half earlier than what he told me. Which threw me off on prepping the opening. I have a huge rust area on the upper drivers side cab to hinge pillar joint that is also part of the pinch weld. Had I known it was there I would have rescheduled my install and taken care of it. But I went ahead and had them install it anyways because there are other areas of the cab that need attention also. So I'll tackle them all at once and probably end up regretting my decision to carry on with the install. Lol. It took the installer and a helper about 25 minutes to seat the gasket on the glass, position it on the cab and install it. I do not have the chrome trim around the glass. It was the first question the installer asked me.
Cost me $55 for the install. I gave him $60. Total price for new seal, glass, and installation was $195. I did remove the old glass and cleaned up myself.
The installer quoted me $240 over the phone for complete replacement including seal and glass he would supply. Which would have been covered had he run into any issues and cracked it while installing it. That was a risk to take on my part, and I'd do it again if I had to.

So my advice is to remove the old one yourself so that you can assess the condition of the opening and integrity of the metal and pinchweld. Correct any issues you may have, THE RIGHT WAY . and have someone install it if you dont feel confident about not screwing it up. Have the installer supply the glass so that it's covered against breaking. Buy a good seal like precision replacement (they're one of the best from what i've learned.) Tell the installer you want "American Glass" it's the closest to factory quality that you can get nowadays.

[HO455]

X2 on what Mike said. Especially on the prep stuff. My Burban's frame was poorly assembled at the factory (see photo) and it surely contributed the some of the rust if not outright leaks as the windshield had sealant everywhere around the outside where we removed it. Some careful application of a BFH brought things into better alignment.

[Orange67]

A hook tool usually comes in handy, especially if the gasket rolls back over the pinch weld and the upper corners of course. If using said hook tool, make sure it is a large one, designed for autoglass as a small pointed one can puncture or tear the gasket. I don't think I would use anything with an edge even removing the glass. When I used to install, on gasket windshields we would sit on something inside the vehicle, put our feet on the glass, and GENTLY push out while pulling the gasket off the pinch weld. If the glass was especially old and brittle it would make a mess, but that was rare. As has been stated, don't use urethane sealer, butyl only. If possible, I would stay away from any lube with silicone in it, especially if you need to paint anything. Hope that helps.

[saxart]

Wow, thanks for all of the thoughts here guys.

I had a buddy coming over today, so last night I prepped the windshield by getting the gasket installed, a rope pushed into the groove and a work table set up in the shop. Did like the video said, starting by putting the top in first. Started pulling rope, and all went well until we got to the bottom corners. We couldn't get the windshield to slide upward enough for the bottom corners to go in.

Just then another friend came over and he started really pushing that glass around, then it slid up another 1/2" and away we went with the bottom corners and the entire bottom edge. Used a hook tool to pull the gasket in like in the video. Couldn't have done this job without that tool!

Not bad for a $20 piece of glass and a new gasket.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Awesome. 👍

[BugzC10]

Originally Posted by saxart

Wow, thanks for all of the thoughts here guys.

I had a buddy coming over today, so last night I prepped the windshield by getting the gasket installed, a rope pushed into the groove and a work table set up in the shop. Did like the video said, starting by putting the top in first. Started pulling rope, and all went well until we got to the bottom corners. We couldn't get the windshield to slide upward enough for the bottom corners to go in.

Just then another friend came over and he started really pushing that glass around, then it slid up another 1/2" and away we went with the bottom corners and the entire bottom edge. Used a hook tool to pull the gasket in like in the video. Couldn't have done this job without that tool!

Not bad for a $20 piece of glass and a new gasket.

Piece-a-Cake...right!

[GR8-68]

Glad to see you got it in, Cknfrmr and myself installed my rear glass Saturday it went well just takes patience

[RenoKeene]

Pretty straight forward without the trim. With the trim its a whole different animal.

[KY_GMC]

When I put the windshield in my truck, I used the Precision gasket and it took a buddy and I around an hour to install.

I too did not think that sealant was necessary. I later found out that I needed when a small leak developed.

After reading the assembly manual, it recommends sealing the upper corners, 6" along the horizontal and 6" along the vertical edges. After picking up a tube of sealer from my local glass shop and applying the sealer, the leak disappeared and has been leak free.

It was fairly easy to peel back the gasket and put a small bead along the edges and then let the gasket return. Clean up the excess and you would never know.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Toms67

I just had mine in stalled . They use Windex spray in the grooves of the gasket. Of course it didn't take them very long. So it didn't dry on them. But I don't like the idea of putting water in the gasket. It will probably be trapped in there. And could cause a rust issue. Just my view. On my back window I put that in using silicone spray. Good luck.

That silicon spray idea is great!

[truckster]

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

That silicon spray idea is great!

It's really not a great idea. Windshield cleaner is what we use in the glass industry. It's not going to make anything rust - it will evaporate out of there pretty quickly. If you decide to use silicone spray and discover a leak later, good luck ever getting it to seal.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by truckster

It's really not a great idea. Windshield cleaner is what we use in the glass industry. It's not going to make anything rust - it will evaporate out of there pretty quickly. If you decide to use silicone spray and discover a leak later, good luck ever getting it to seal.

Hmmm...

Stainless Trim window, I can see your point. I have researched this pretty good here on this site.

Hoping to get mine done soon.