My 1969 C10 Build thread

[SLDPULR]

Well just want to say hello to everyone. I just brought home my dream truck. Its a 1969 c10 SWB with a 350 and a 3 speed on the floor. I thought I would start a build thread for this for others to see but mainly for help. I am a field service mechanic for a oilfield rental company and I do all of the diesel engine repairs. How in the world I have become a diesel mechanic working on gensets and pump units and never worked on a 350 with a carburetor is beyond me but here I am.

Here is what I know about the truck so far. (I bought it yesterday so I'm still figuring everything out) Its a 1969 C10 with a 1975 350. The transmission is a 3 speed on the floor. The truck was originally a column shift so I'm not sure what transmission is in it just yet (feel free to let me know). One of the many previous owners converted the rear end to a 5 lug but not sure what it is yet. The diff housing is leaking so that will be one of my first things to fix and I will find out the ratio and see if its a 12 bolt at that time. I have no idea what has been done to the motor but its not a factory motor. It has a HUGE cam but only a 600cfm carb so not sure whats going on there. The body and grill are in great shape and not hardly any rust.

If it was a numbers matching truck my plans were to restore it to factory specs but that is out the window. So my plans are going to be a pro street/hot rod truck as of now. I'm going to pick up a engine stand tomorrow and start with fixing up the motor. My guess is someone put a big cam in a motor with all stock internals, heads, and intake manifold. I will tear it all down and see what the block is like. I would like to do a 383 stroker if the block is ok. If its bad then im going to the dark side and going big block. I will shut up now and show some pictures. If anyone has any tips or ideas feel free to share. I would love help from the guys who know way more about this than me.

[SLDPULR]

Oh and I just had to say that I worked on this all day with my five year old daughter who I think is more excited about this truck than I am. I'm one happy dad!

[too much stuff]

Nice. I remember seeing that one on craiglist awhile back when i was looking for a truck in oklahoma. Welcome aboard.

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

Nice. I remember seeing that one on craiglist awhile back when i was looking for a truck in oklahoma. Welcome aboard.

Thanks. Yup I found it on craigslist. The guy was really nice and had four of them in his shop in Forth Smith.

[dan42]

Welcome to the board - looks like a nice starting point you have there. Sounds like you're gonna learn about gas engines fast! Interesting they only converted the rear. At any rate, it will be great to spend some time with your daughter on it. Who knows, it might be the first vehicle she drives.

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by dan42

Welcome to the board - looks like a nice starting point you have there. Sounds like you're gonna learn about gas engines fast! Interesting they only converted the rear. At any rate, it will be great to spend some time with your daughter on it. Who knows, it might be the first vehicle she drives.

Thanks! And nice dog. I have a 1 year old Aussie named Rumble

[SLDPULR]

OK time for my first questions. Today I pulled off the bed and gutted the interior. When I pulled the bed WOW its a mess. The cross member right above the rear end is broke in to two pieces. It looks lime someone did a horrible torch job on a part of it too. I looked through the LMC catalog and couldn't find any actual chassis parts. When I searched the internet all I could find for 67-72 chassis parts was aftermarket 4 link and C notch kits. I don't really want to go all out and do a 4 link since the research I have done says really good things about the factory system. I plan on lowering is some so If I should just do the C-notch now that ok. Just curious as to what my option are.

Oh and having a F550 with a 7500 lb crane makes quick work of getting the bed off.

[spatz]

Welcome to the board from Michigan. become a supporting member for 25 bucks a year and place a want to buy (WTB) or check with teeitup (Randy). He's a good guy and may be able to help you out. Good luck.

[70cst]

Hey SLDPULR ....

to the forums and from Ohio. Looks like have a solid truck to start working on.

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by spatz

Welcome to the board from Michigan. become a supporting member for 25 bucks a year and place a want to buy (WTB) or check with teeitup (Randy). He's a good guy and may be able to help you out. Good luck.

I will sign up for that when I get home tonight. Do you know what the specific name for that cross member is?

[SLDPULR]

Update...... So when I bought the truck I looked it over really good and was amazed at how well the floor looked. I knew it was to good to be true. Who ever did the floor did a really good job of patching the floor with fiber glass LOL. They patched it with fiber glass top and bottom then covered it in filler and sanded it sooth. Someone spent a TON of time patching this floor. It looks good but a small poke of a screwdriver and it cracks right out. So now I have to peel out all the fiber glass and do floor pans. Not happy. I removed the whole front clip. Looking at new fenders and radiator core support. Can someone tell me if it is ok to to do the floor pans with the cab off. Im going to a pull a part yard in the morning to try and find a 73+ front end and then the chassis is going in for sand blasting and coating.

[2002yanks]

Its alot easier to do it with the cab off. Just make sure you brace the cab(front to back and side to side)before cutting out the old parts. To keep it square. Tack the new panels in and keep checking the door fitment. Also if you can most will say find some original panels. Aftermarket is hit and miss for fitment. How bad are your fenders and core support?

[SLDPULR]

Originally Posted by 2002yanks

Its alot easier to do it with the cab off. Just make sure you brace the cab(front to back and side to side)before cutting out the old parts. To keep it square. Tack the new panels in and keep checking the door fitment. Also if you can most will say find some original panels. Aftermarket is hit and miss for fitment. How bad are your fenders and core support?

The core support is pretty rusty on the bottom but is fixable. I found one on goodmarks website for 150 bucks so I will just get that. The fenders have drill holes all in them where they used a slide hammer to pull dents and then bondo over them. They didnt plug weld the holes. It looks like cheese going through a cheese grader on the back side of the fender.

[2002yanks]

run from goodmark. If you can try to find key parts/tri plus brand. Look up top bananna, they sell these(last i knew). Heard nothing but horror stories about goodmark(saw it first hand with 69 camaro body panels) and a few small patch panels on my 67 c10.

[SLDPULR]

Thanks for the heads up! I'm glad I joined this forum. What about LMC, classic industries, and southern Kentucky classics? Those were the places I was price checking for fenders.

[SLDPULR]

Went to pull a part this morning. I left after they told me I couldn't drive in. I was the only person there that spoke English. I didn't really feel like carrying every tool I needed through the yard to remove the entire front cross member. I found a guy parting out his truck on craigslist and he said he would sell me the entire front cross member wheels and all and the brake booster for 100 bucks.

[2002yanks]

on body panels stay away from lmc trucks. I am positive the sell goodmark. LMC is good for the small stuff. Call classic industries and southern kentuky claasics(i think they carry the better brands). It might cost alittle more up front, but you will be glad you spent it when you go to fit them.

[SLDPULR]

Southern Kentucky classics had really good prices compared to lmc and classic.

[SLDPULR]

I need some reassurance from someone here before I order all these front end parts. I was going to buy a full cross member out of a 73+ truck so I could have the five lug front and disc brakes. I decided that since I'm going to buy drop spindles and would prob have to re build that whole steering assembly that I would be better off just buying new parts.

Here is what I think I need to convert my 69 to a 73+ disc brake setup:

Upper ball joints 73+
Lower ball joints 73+
73+ drop spindles
73+ rotors
73+ calipers
caliper bolts
brake lines
pads
bearings
seals
73+ tie rod ends
73+ brake booster and master cylinder

[SLDPULR]

Ground out 4000 lbs of bondo and fiber glass to get down to original floor and removed all of the front clip. I'm thinking about going back to the original color but maybe a brighter baby blue.

[sean1969c10]

I am doing the same 73+ conversion on my 69 c10. I'm pretty sure you need the upper and lower control arms from the newer trucks. I am rebuilding all of the 74 stuff I have and I'm going to install it on the original crossmember. I'm not sure about the brake booster, I went with a CPP master cylinder and 9" booster. Hope this is helps. Nice truck!!!

[SLDPULR]

Thanks for the input. I've been looking at tubular control arms. Will the newer year models bolt right to the existing cross member?

[sean1969c10]

I have a friend that has had many of these trucks and he tells me that they bolt right on. I don't have my 69 pulled apart yet so I can't verify but I know he has later model control arms on his 72 Cheyanne Super.

[2002yanks]

Dont you love the short cut fixing some previous owners do. Mine had a "paper mache" floor and rockers(i kid you knot). Also had 1 1/2 inch thick bondo`ed cab corners.

As for the disk upgrade why not just get the 72 parts? Its 5 lug and you know everything will bolt on. If you are not getting the whole 73 front cross member no sense changing the years. 72 gets you 5 lug and disk. Whatever you do make sure you write down what you end up with. Just incase you need parts down the road.

[sean1969c10]

Yanks does bring up a good point. Around here it's just harder to find the 72 parts, that is why I am using the later model stuff.