Rebuild needed for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks?

[Canada20]

Hey all. From what I've read, all the talk of rebuilding suspesions for 67-72 trucks seems to apply to C10/K10s. I haven't noticed any topics about rebuilding on C20s and C30s. Is that because they use metal bushings and don't wear/rot the same as rubber or is it just that I've missed discussions about that?

I'm finally going to try and rip into my old beast this weekend and part of my long term plans include a disk-brake-crossmember swap from a '72 Longhorn that I dragged home in the back of my Honda. I figure if it WILL need rebuilt, the time is now, while it's not in my truck.

Many thanks,

Greg

[COBALT]

I've done a 3/4 ton rebuild. There are several of us on this board who've done it and posted discussions.

The basic idea is that the components (coils, tie rods, spindles, ball joints, and control arm/control arm center bars) are much more heavy duty than 1/2 ton, but for the most part they contain the same components. That's all. When you order your front-end parts just make sure the supplier has 3/4 ton in their head when looking up the parts.

In the rear the trailing arms are reinforced for the 3/4 ton truck. Coils are heavier, and of course the axle is different for the most part which means heavier U-bolts, and panhard bar bushings.

[Canada20]

Thanks for the reply; good info. I figgered I must've not realized you guys were talking about C20s....

Sounds like I better read my manuals and see what I can do about tearing frontend down while everything is still east to get at. Anything I should keep my eyes open for? Maybe I should just use the search function..heheh

Thanks again,

Greg

[COBALT]

Yeah:

1. Get a pitman arm puller. Messing with other pullers that weren't made for that joint seemed like a dumb idea.

2. A good tie rod and ball joint separator set is hard to beat. The 3/4 ton ball joints can be a PAIN to get out. That tapered stud on the ball joint is a tight fit in the spindle. Get the best fork set you can get. Don't get some cheap ones. Also a 6-8" steel bar (cupped at one end) is absolutely gold. The cupped end can go over the old spindle end, and you can smack it with your BFH until the spindle pops loose if the fork doesn't let it budge. Oh yeah, the rubber boots on the ball joints will get destroyed every time you try to remove them.

3. Easiest way to get the springs out for 3/4 ton is to remove the lower A-arm center bar first. Some people will disagree with me, but I spent hours trying to get the ball joints to pop loose with the spring in there - forget it. I put my floor jack tight under the lower A-arm center bar, removed the U-bolts, got behind a big steel desk I had in the shop, and lowered the jack. The spring fell right out.

4. Have a propane torch ready. Heating and cooling the spindle can help pop those ball joints loose. Don't set the grease on fire!

5. Penetrating oil is a must. Kroil works great.

6. Don't damage your drag link (the common link between both sets of tie rods that connects to your pitman arm and idler arm). You'll want to reuse this, unless you want to go aftermarket or go visit junk yards. This does not show up in rebuild kits.

7. Don't re-use castle nuts, cotter pins, or grease fittings. Use new ones.

8. Have a set of upper control arm shims handy (get them at tire and front-end shops). Usually they're $0.20 cents a piece or so. Plan on putting 3 per stud (12 total) as a starting point, or remember how many were in to begin with for each stud, and match them. This helps with alignment later.

9. Take your tie-rods out as one piece assemblies with the sleeve still in place. Remember which one goes on which side, and how they're oriented (use some masking tape and permanent marker). When assembling your new tie rod assemblies match them. It makes alignment MUCH more easier.

10. Use some bailing wire or a coat hanger wire to hang your spindles from the wheel well. Since you're replacing your spindles this isn't a big deal for you. I didn't replace mine, so I had to deal with those heavy drum brake assemblies on the spindle. Man those things are heavy!

11. Take this opportunity to clean EVERYTHING. Use a good biodegradable degreaser and a brush. Let it dry, and then use some cleaner on a rag to wipe stuff down.

12. SAVE YOUR PITMAN ARM NUT! That big nut is hard to replace. Don't loose it.

13. Use this opportunity to put on a front-end sway bar. I installed a 1 1/8" bar and used the Energy Suspension bushings from Summit Racing. You'll have to grind off and remove some frame rivets, and of course you'll have to have a bar and the front frame brackets off of a parts truck, or aftermarket bar and brackets. The bushings have their own smaller brackets with them.

14. Use grade 8 hardware whereever possible.

15. Make sure the tapered studs on ball joints, tie rods, and pitman and idler arm are the SAME as the drag link and the spindles. If they're not then you could damage the studs and break one while you're driving around. BAD thing to happen.

Everything else is common sense and a little elbow grease and patience. Have fun.

[Canada20]

Whoosh! More great info, thanks for that! I'm gonna put this through the printer for sure

Greg

[MAXMEOW]

Phew!! Me too, thanks for the great information. Do you have any great links for getting the parts? Specifically I am looking for complete "A" arms.

[COBALT]

Like I said in your other post start thinking about getting the control ("A") arms by themselves, and get the center bars and ball joints separately.

Used A arms need ball joints pressed in. Often these press fits will only take 2-3 presses before they're too open to take another press. Then you'd have to either install a sleave, or look for another control arm. You can also get aftermarket ones, but they're expensive.

Check the used parts board here. I get my front-end parts from Moog via either Early Classic Enterprises, or you can search via google.com for a supplier who can get you moog parts for 3/4 ton chevy trucks.

[special70gmc]

know how i got my 3/4ton a-arms off of the spindel a BFH!!! i coulnt find my pickle fork so i beat themm untill they sepperated. i had an 8 foot crowbar under it too all it did was push the spring up. cobalt i also was uneasy about lowering the jack but when i lowered it and it just fell out i felt pritty stupid. bad advice but its there if you care to read it. -kyle