1966 GMC carryall side windows

[DRUMWAGON]

I started retrofitting this 66 GMC carry-all in the spring. The rig has been sitting for almost 20 years and the engine and drive train where completely seized up. I had a wrecked 89 suburban and it made good since to swap the 66 body onto the 89 chassis. When I removed the sliding side widows, the frame assemblies completely fell apart with rust and cannot be repaired. I have pop-riveted some sheet metal in temporarily but would like to put the sliding windows back in. (glass is good) If anyone has any suggestions or knows where I can find some frames please let me know. Thanks! –Wayne-

[Dinos63]

I have two full sets of windows plus frames, do you still have the trim around the windows?

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

I have two full sets of windows plus frames, do you still have the trim around the windows?

Thanks for the reply! I have the interor trim that screws around the 4 windows. Is that the trim you are referring to? Do you need the trim? I do not have the rubber that goes around the 1/2" lip on the truck body, or any exterior trim. It seems to be real costly and a PAIN to put the sliding windows back in.
I am close to just making this rig a "panel wagon". If so you can have the trims and glass. A gift on this site does not break any cardinal "jackass" rules for parts swaping. Does it?

I need the double sloted steel frames for ALL FOUR windows. Plus the felts and rubbers that seal the frames and glass. I have not found any supplier that makes anything aftermarket for the carry-alls.

[DRUMWAGON]

Can anyone put in their 2 cents worth on installing 4 pieces of tinted 1 piece glass?

[padresag]

you can get the rubber i think from www.steelerubber.com/
you can put the one piece glass in without the sliders
ron

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by padresag

you can get the rubber i think from www.steelerubber.com/
you can put the one piece glass in without the sliders
ron

Thanks for the tip! Ill check out the address. Where on Earth is Sidney b.c.?

[gulffishin]

Originally Posted by DRUMWAGON

Thanks for the tip! Ill check out the address. Where on Earth is Sidney b.c.?

British Columbia Canada

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=sidney...ed=0CB0Q8gEwAA

[padresag]

Originally Posted by DRUMWAGON

Thanks for the tip! Ill check out the address. Where on Earth is Sidney b.c.?

do you know where Canada is?
actually i am on an island in the pacific. about 80 mi north of Seattle wa.. I get to look at the san juan is. evryday.
by the way I have a chesapeake laying on the floor beside me

By rondavid at 2009-09-08

[rustyrodknocker]

I am in the process of converting my sliders to fixed window. the overlapping sliders is a very poor design for my climate. it is a spendy affair to do either. fixed window rubber is about $170 a pair from steele. I had two fixed windows in my parts truck and had two more cut. Do not buy the rubber American Classic sells. I tried to cheap out and use it a about $16 a window. it is just a universal rubber that has to be cut to length. and it almost fits. almost. so a broken window later making it three custom cut pieces. has added another hundred bucks to the price of the next rubbers. I had to silicone the slider frames back in to get on the road since this is the womans daily driver. really looking foward to spending a day cutting them back out. my factory fixed windows measured 1/8" smaller all the way around than recess in the body when centered in the opening. thats what I used to to make the template for my front windows.

[Dinos63]

Originally Posted by DRUMWAGON

Thanks for the reply! I have the interor trim that screws around the 4 windows. Is that the trim you are referring to? Do you need the trim? I do not have the rubber that goes around the 1/2" lip on the truck body, or any exterior trim. It seems to be real costly and a PAIN to put the sliding windows back in.
I am close to just making this rig a "panel wagon". If so you can have the trims and glass. A gift on this site does not break any cardinal "jackass" rules for parts swaping. Does it?

I need the double sloted steel frames for ALL FOUR windows. Plus the felts and rubbers that seal the frames and glass. I have not found any supplier that makes anything aftermarket for the carry-alls.

the s/s trim on the out side of the windows i am lookin for that trim?

[DRUMWAGON]

[QUOTE=padresag;4354473]do you know where Canada is?
actually i am on an island in the pacific. about 80 mi north of Seattle wa.. I get to look at the san juan is. evryday.
by the way I have a chesapeake laying on the floor beside me

COOL DOG! "Gulffishin" left a goggle map link to Sidney. You are long way away! looks like good fishing around you. I live to FISH! The Striped Bass (rock fish) bite is on real good right now in the Chesapeake Bay.

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by Dinos63

the s/s trim on the out side of the windows i am lookin for that trim?

Sorry man! That trim came off in a violent way! those trim holes where the reason this hole truck rusted out so bad and had to go. I stumbled onto this 66 and traded a TH-400 for it. Im into this build for less than a grand at this point and must keep it on the cheap side. SO, by just reading a few post here, I am going to weld and fiberglass the sheet metal in. A Panel Wagon in search of big Red Drum!

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by rustyrodknocker

I am in the process of converting my sliders to fixed window. the overlapping sliders is a very poor design for my climate. it is a spendy affair to do either. fixed window rubber is about $170 a pair from steele. I had two fixed windows in my parts truck and had two more cut. Do not buy the rubber American Classic sells. I tried to cheap out and use it a about $16 a window. it is just a universal rubber that has to be cut to length. and it almost fits. almost. so a broken window later making it three custom cut pieces. has added another hundred bucks to the price of the next rubbers. I had to silicone the slider frames back in to get on the road since this is the womans daily driver. really looking foward to spending a day cutting them back out. my factory fixed windows measured 1/8" smaller all the way around than recess in the body when centered in the opening. thats what I used to to make the template for my front windows.

Thanks! I thought this was going to be a head/wallet ache! you just made my decision to sheet metal the window openings in.

[gostranger]

i pmed you!!

[protrash64]

I converted my 'burb to solid windows and ditched the sliders. I used 4 standard rubber seals to set the glass. The front windows are not the same shape as the rear, and it's slightly difficult to get the correct profile. Once past that obstacle you can install them like any piece of flat glass. Wrap the glass with the rubber and tape it on. I cut the corner at roughly 22.5* each so they meet at an angle of roughly 45*. Use a rope to load the channel and then lube it with silicon or Windex.

The factory used small rubber tabs to jack up the window into the correct position; I used left over pieces of the rubber gasket to do the same job. Its as difficult or easy as any glass install depending on your experience.

[LT1 Burb]

I redid all of my sliders, my truck came with 4 sets and it was a pain. I ordered a kit from Brothers and it was junk, they sent a long straight piece of rubber that they expected you to miter at the corners. I basically threw the rubbers away and ordered another set from Steele and they fit. Like RustyRod, it too ended up costing me twice what it should have, must be an Oregon thing I guess.

Drumwagon, why dont you just remove the outer center support and get a 1 piece window cut, I have seen it done and it works well because you can retain the window rubber seal.

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by LT1 Burb

I redid all of my sliders, my truck came with 4 sets and it was a pain. I ordered a kit from Brothers and it was junk, they sent a long straight piece of rubber that they expected you to miter at the corners. I basically threw the rubbers away and ordered another set from Steele and they fit. Like RustyRod, it too ended up costing me twice what it should have, must be an Oregon thing I guess.

Drumwagon, why dont you just remove the outer center support and get a 1 piece window cut, I have seen it done and it works well because you can retain the window rubber seal.

Thanks for everyones input! LT Burb, Are you saying cut out the "center window support" and get a 1 piece glass nearly 80" long? for each side of the burb? Im still weighing in all options.

[67swb72klb]

i have been thinkn about makin mine a flush fit like the new vehicals anybody try it or seen others

[DRUMWAGON]

Originally Posted by protrash64

I converted my 'burb to solid windows and ditched the sliders. I used 4 standard rubber seals to set the glass. The front windows are not the same shape as the rear, and it's slightly difficult to get the correct profile. Once past that obstacle you can install them like any piece of flat glass. Wrap the glass with the rubber and tape it on. I cut the corner at roughly 22.5* each so they meet at an angle of roughly 45*. Use a rope to load the channel and then lube it with silicon or Windex.

The factory used small rubber tabs to jack up the window into the correct position; I used left over pieces of the rubber gasket to do the same job. Its as difficult or easy as any glass install depending on your experience.

Thanks for the tip! Your burb does look cleen with the one piece windows.

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by DRUMWAGON

Thanks for the tip! Your burb does look cleen with the one piece windows.

Thanx DRUM, cant say it wasn't without the usual BS that we all know and love with our truck projects....

Anybody considering this option should take the time to get the glass tempered as the laminate will crack very easily with any pressure on the edges; or use original glass.

[Dinos63]

Originally Posted by DRUMWAGON

Sorry man! That trim came off in a violent way! those trim holes where the reason this hole truck rusted out so bad and had to go. I stumbled onto this 66 and traded a TH-400 for it. Im into this build for less than a grand at this point and must keep it on the cheap side. SO, by just reading a few post here, I am going to weld and fiberglass the sheet metal in. A Panel Wagon in search of big Red Drum!

THATS COOL AND BY THE WAY I DIG THE TRUCK BROTHA!!

[67swb72klb]

looks good but sombody butched the w/seals up so im gona hav to do over anyway but i was thinkn about the flush fit that is clean as u can get would hav to build the flanges out to make it work out any body done that ?

[LT1 Burb]

Yes, you leave the inner support in there but cut it to where the outer support does not interfere with the glass. I saw one at a car show done like this but I can't really remember exactly how it was done.It had a long tinted black window and it looked good.

[67swb72klb]

i dont wana mess with that center post that would b abig piece of glass

[rustyrodknocker]

Originally Posted by 67swb72klb

looks good but sombody butched the w/seals up so im gona hav to do over anyway but i was thinkn about the flush fit that is clean as u can get would hav to build the flanges out to make it work out any body done that ?

I'm thinking about this ,but probably will not in the end. Even if you double the width of the pinch weld flange when the glass is set in it flushes out with the outer body. It just doesn't look right to me. If I do it I will relocate the flange 1/4" inboard. I did not want to spend the time to do this in the winter. but could have in the time I wasted on the rubber. I thought about installing them from the inside with the urethane. this would be easy just widen the flange 1/2" and the depth would look right. but then you would need a wide trim on the outside. that would not be worth the hassle. thats why modern cars have the 1" black band around the windows. to cover the glue .