Whats the best /cheapest way to seal drip rail?

[JORGIE95961]

I was thinking about heating up soem ofthe dynatron seam sealer i have tomake it flow smoother.. but im not too sure.. any advice?

[trev1]

I just sealed it with plastic body filler. Thats what it seemed to be originally for my 69 Cst C-10. I dont know if you're doing just a quick fix or if you're doing a more complete resto, but I didn't have much trouble and it sealed it pretty well. Hope it helps.

[Lee H]

Caulking, (you did say cheapest).
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[jamesi20]

cheapest and best usually don't go together very well...if you want to do it right,get the 3M seam sealer and be done with it.

[late68]

Originally Posted by jamesi20

cheapest and best usually don't go together very well...if you want to do it right,get the 3M seam sealer and be done with it.

I second that!

[mm1077]

I used the maxim self leveling seam sealer #824 for drip rails. It was like $37 after shipping and didn't require any special application gun.

[C10-Driver]

A trick my bodyman taught me is to have a little cup of thinner (and lots of rags handy), dip your finger in the thinner and smooth it out like you would with caulking. Works pretty good (if you're good at that sort of thing).

[bobs409]

It's not cheap but I just got some POR 15 seam sealer that I'm going to give a shot on my wrecker project.

The 3-M and similar seam sealers ALL crack sooner or later and in my case(s), it's always sooner!

Hoping this stuff will be the magic cure but we'll see...

[special-K]

Cheapest isn't best. Use the two part stuff. I used the 3M in a caulk tube and it has cracked,although still pliable. I smoothed it out with thinner and rags as C10-Driver suggested. It may be just the paint cracked. I have to check closer. It takes a long time to cure being applied thick and maybe I painted too soon.

[camrycurt]

Originally Posted by bobs409

The 3-M and similar seam sealers ALL crack sooner or later and in my case(s), it's always sooner!

What about Eastwood's Seam Sealer? Has anyone used that?

Does it fall into the same category as the 3M and similar sealers?

[extd56]

It is a good question and would also like to know which one will hold up the longest.

[slikside]

subscribed.

[AirSpeed]

When I did mine I used some sealer I found at NAPA, the tube looked like it had been around awhile but I used it anyway, as I used it I could see a few air bubbles in it, I should have stopped right there but I didn't. As soon as the weather got warm I noticed the entire gutter had inflated, the sealer looked like a small innertube. I ended up having to grind the gutter out again, it wasn't that fun the first time but grinding out all that soft sealer was pure Hell! The point is when doing something like that it's best to do it right the first time! Don't go cheap if you want it to last! Make sure you grind out every last bit of surface rust you can get to and treat what you can't with some sort of rust converter. It sucks to have to do the same job twice!
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[VA72C10]

good info here...anyone have a long term solution that's worked?

[bcutt]

Best stuff you can get IMO.. This is 2 part epoxy seam sealer that is self leveling. I paid $20/tube on sale but its normally $30 or so. Uses a standard caulk gun to apply. I recommend putting it on over some good epoxy primer.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=257

[jondancer]

I think there is another thread on this, I'd like to know the best not the cheapest.
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[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by jondancer

I think there is another thread on this, I'd like to know the best not the cheapest.
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Originally Posted by bcutt

Best stuff you can get IMO.. This is 2 part epoxy seam sealer that is self leveling. I paid $20/tube on sale but its normally $30 or so. Uses a standard caulk gun to apply. I recommend putting it on over some good epoxy primer.

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=257

Anyone else used the evercoat? Or have long term feedback? Sounds like a winner on the best and still cheap at this point...

[vasquezmrysvll]

i used 3m 2k self leveling seam sealer. i even have the gun for it. you can come check it out.

[bcutt]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Anyone else used the evercoat? Or have long term feedback? Sounds like a winner on the best and still cheap at this point...

I did a lot of research on this board and other Auto Body forums before I went with the Evercoat. I think most professional paint/body men would agree that for the price and ease of application you cant do any better than this stuff. Of course others will say go with the 3M stuff but most their 2-part sealer requires the special mixing gun which unless you run a shop is not worth the investment. This stuff is leaps and bounds better than what GM used from the factory, I'm only 28 and this stuff will probably out last me..

[67chevy1]

subsribed

[desertnick69]

Originally Posted by bcutt

I did a lot of research on this board and other Auto Body forums before I went with the Evercoat. I think most professional paint/body men would agree that for the price and ease of application you cant do any better than this stuff. Of course others will say go with the 3M stuff but most their 2-part sealer requires the special mixing gun which unless you run a shop is not worth the investment. This stuff is leaps and bounds better than what GM used from the factory, I'm only 28 and this stuff will probably out last me..

So what Evercoat product did you use?

[Redline novdog]

I'm in My cabs a leakin'

[57taskforce]

I've had good results with lord fusor self leveling seam sealer. Got if from autobody tool mart for ~20 a tube. Uses a regular caulk gun and after 6 years in the drip rails of my '57 it still is holding up well.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by special-K

Cheapest isn't best. Use the two part stuff. I used the 3M in a caulk tube and it has cracked,although still pliable. I smoothed it out with thinner and rags as C10-Driver suggested. It may be just the paint cracked. I have to check closer. It takes a long time to cure being applied thick and maybe I painted too soon.

That was back in Oct '11. About two years later I sent to paint my top and discovered that 3M stuff was not bonded to the front lip in spots. It remained pliable still. I dug out enough to get a hold of and pulled it all up in one piece. only had to scrape/grind the thin edge that remained. It was totally wet under there. Fortunately no rust,though. I went to my auto body supplier and they sold me the Evercoat. They claim to be the supplier to the auto industry. Now, a couple years later I am seeing cracks in it. Whatever GM used lasted far more than two years. Both times I went down to clean metal, etch primed, and painted. Also cleaned/prepped properly. I'm going to read through here and see what other good product have worked better

*EDIT: Looks like I'm trying what Taskforce57 used

[67swb72klb]

I have been using the 3M ultrapro urethane sealer for many years on cars and trucks without problems
inside of the bed on my 67 being the first thing I used it on 20+ years ago and still looks good the stuff sticks to anything too
I think it also comes in a regular caulk tube now

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.cWc&cad=rja