front wheel bearings on 71 K10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

BurnoutNova · 01-02-2005, 11:00 PM

im wanting to change the wheel bearings on my truck..

i got the factory lockouts off and the threaded nut off, but theres another nut, or what looks like a nut with 8 or 10 small holes in it. i cant get it out, do i need a special tool? ive heard i needed a tool, but the first nut just spun off easily.

**kwmech** · 01-02-2005, 11:03 PM

Snap ring pliers or a pick and pull it off---sometimes it may get jacked into the groove. Just pry it out then thread the other nut off.

4x4Poet · 01-03-2005, 02:40 AM

It's not a nut, it's a flat washer with holes that enable mating a nub from the inner nut to the washer that also has a tab that fits in a groove in the hub to make a lock between the hub and the inner nut. Otherwise, what kwmech said.

LONGHAIR · 01-03-2005, 09:48 AM

The real trick to these is in putting it back together. You really should have the socket that is made for this application too.
Once you have your new bearings and seal installed:
Tighten the inner nut (the one with the pin....facing out) and turn the rotor by hand. Since you are using new brearings, you then back the nut off about 1/8-1/4 of a turn. It should move smoothly but not "freely". New brearings will break-in and loosen up more than just repacking the old ones would. This also depends upon the fit of the threads on the nut...(You'll see later)
Next, you slide the washer (clean out the holes, it helps a lot) making sure that the key is ligned up with the slot on the spindle. Slide it back onto the first nut. One of the holes in the washer has to fit onto the pin. If it does not fit the first time, pull the washer back out and turn it over and try it again. The holes are off-set from the key, this usually works, if not you need to move the inner nut slightly and try again. Be VERY SURE that the pin is in the hole and that it sits flat.
Then you install the outer nut. Now as I refered to earlier the slop in the threads and affect things at this point. When you tighten the outer nut, it will push the inner nut in slightly (slop in the threads) be sure to turn the rotor by hand again. You don't want it too tight.

If the pin is bent, mushroomed or broken........replace it.
Also make sure that the key on the washer is intact and that the washer is round (not stretched into an egg shape)

It is very important that this be done properly....as there is no cotter pin to keep the nut from moving like a 2 wheel drive truck or car would have. This 3 piece locking nut is all you have.

**JIMs70GMC** · 01-03-2005, 11:13 AM

These nuts should have the 4 slots. Should be able to buy the socket at any auto parts store.

BurnoutNova · 01-03-2005, 01:23 PM

i did it this morning...borrowed a socket from a friend

the old bearings looked great, and when i pulled it apart the axle nut was loose, so i just tightened everything back up and am gonna drive it later and see if it starts making noise again... has anyone else had this probleom?

i got the new bearings, but the old ones looked just as good and were smooth rolling, ect.

could there be anything else loos in the front end that would cause the axle nut to come loose?

zach

4x4Poet · 01-03-2005, 10:46 PM

Longhair did good. The washer's tab mates with the spindle groove, not a hub groove. I knew there was a groove in there somewhere.

784X4GUY · 01-04-2005, 09:31 PM

Yeah someday im gonna have to tear the frontend of mine apart, and redo it all...Later Mike

BurnoutNova · 01-04-2005, 10:06 PM

well, when i took it apart the second time top put the new wheelbearings and seal in, the inside race was loose... i didnt need to drive it out. the new one was the same way, so i thgink i need to get a new hub/rotor.

it still clunks like the initial probleom... so the race must not be tight enough and thats where my slop is at.

has anyone had this probleom?

zach

4x4Poet · 01-05-2005, 02:05 AM

Sounds likely. I wonder of someone on this board has specs for what the hub dimensions should be to properly retain a race. Then again, if it is loose and you have the right bearing race, the hub must be worn behind the race. Did you have metal shavings or evidence of the race scratching or scoring the hub from rotating in its mounting location? Did the back side of the old race show signs of having moved while in the hub? Either the race is worn, the hub is worn, or both. Since the new race didn't press fit, the hub must be worn. But like I asked, you should see evidence of a race having spun in its mounting location

BurnoutNova · 01-05-2005, 09:31 PM

i bought a new hub today, and had the old rotor pressed onto the new hub.

once i got home, i noticed the innter bearing race on the new rotor was to large for my bearing... so i took it back along with my original and the guy says i have the "early" hub. i guess theres 2 ubs for a 71 4x4, early and late? anyway, he cant get the one i need... si i guess in eed a used one???

anyone ran into THIs crap??? i almost thought he was full of it, an early and late hub? and is a 73 4x4 hub the same as my 71 should be???

thanks, zach

784X4GUY · 01-05-2005, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BurnoutNova

i bought a new hub today, and had the old rotor pressed onto the new hub.

once i got home, i noticed the innter bearing race on the new rotor was to large for my bearing... so i took it back along with my original and the guy says i have the "early" hub. i guess theres 2 ubs for a 71 4x4, early and late? anyway, he cant get the one i need... si i guess in eed a used one???

anyone ran into THIs crap??? i almost thought he was full of it, an early and late hub? and is a 73 4x4 hub the same as my 71 should be???

thanks, zach

That is a bunch of crap, someone has got to have a new one somewhere. Good luck with it man...Later Mike

4x4Poet · 01-06-2005, 03:38 AM

The new bearing does fit over the spindle at it's intended place with a precision fit, right? I'm not so knowledgeable on parts application info with regard to D44 axles. I would verify that you have the right bearings at a bearing sales store. Take both the old and new for comparison. Cheaper prices than auto parts stores, too. My local store's techs still pull out the books to look up info. I can read what they see, only upside down. One of my many useful, yet unprofitable talents.

**kwmech** · 01-06-2005, 11:23 AM

If you have a major problem locating the correct hub, you can also change over to a later model spindle that will accomodate the available hub. Personally I like having the larger bearings for the larger tires. GM went to the 'large' bearing hubs/spindles in 1978 I believe. The only difference is the inner bearing, everything else is the same as the 71

01-02-2005, 11:00 PM	#1
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	front wheel bearings on 71 K10 im wanting to change the wheel bearings on my truck.. i got the factory lockouts off and the threaded nut off, but theres another nut, or what looks like a nut with 8 or 10 small holes in it. i cant get it out, do i need a special tool? ive heard i needed a tool, but the first nut just spun off easily.

01-03-2005, 02:40 AM	#3
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	It's not a nut, it's a flat washer with holes that enable mating a nub from the inner nut to the washer that also has a tab that fits in a groove in the hub to make a lock between the hub and the inner nut. Otherwise, what kwmech said. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

01-03-2005, 11:13 AM	#5
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	These nuts should have the 4 slots. Should be able to buy the socket at any auto parts store. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

01-03-2005, 10:46 PM	#7
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Longhair did good. The washer's tab mates with the spindle groove, not a hub groove. I knew there was a groove in there somewhere. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

01-04-2005, 09:31 PM	#8
784X4GUY Did someone say MUD? Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Pullman,WA Posts: 1,089	Yeah someday im gonna have to tear the frontend of mine apart, and redo it all...Later Mike __________________ Im in the market guys...so keep ya eyes peeled -------------------- Mini trucks are for guys who cant get it up!

01-02-2005, 11:03 PM	#2
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,407	Snap ring pliers or a pick and pull it off---sometimes it may get jacked into the groove. Just pry it out then thread the other nut off.

01-03-2005, 09:48 AM	#4
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	The real trick to these is in putting it back together. You really should have the socket that is made for this application too. Once you have your new bearings and seal installed: Tighten the inner nut (the one with the pin....facing out) and turn the rotor by hand. Since you are using new brearings, you then back the nut off about 1/8-1/4 of a turn. It should move smoothly but not "freely". New brearings will break-in and loosen up more than just repacking the old ones would. This also depends upon the fit of the threads on the nut...(You'll see later) Next, you slide the washer (clean out the holes, it helps a lot) making sure that the key is ligned up with the slot on the spindle. Slide it back onto the first nut. One of the holes in the washer has to fit onto the pin. If it does not fit the first time, pull the washer back out and turn it over and try it again. The holes are off-set from the key, this usually works, if not you need to move the inner nut slightly and try again. Be VERY SURE that the pin is in the hole and that it sits flat. Then you install the outer nut. Now as I refered to earlier the slop in the threads and affect things at this point. When you tighten the outer nut, it will push the inner nut in slightly (slop in the threads) be sure to turn the rotor by hand again. You don't want it too tight. If the pin is bent, mushroomed or broken........replace it. Also make sure that the key on the washer is intact and that the washer is round (not stretched into an egg shape) It is very important that this be done properly....as there is no cotter pin to keep the nut from moving like a 2 wheel drive truck or car would have. This 3 piece locking nut is all you have.

01-03-2005, 01:23 PM	#6
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	i did it this morning...borrowed a socket from a friend the old bearings looked great, and when i pulled it apart the axle nut was loose, so i just tightened everything back up and am gonna drive it later and see if it starts making noise again... has anyone else had this probleom? i got the new bearings, but the old ones looked just as good and were smooth rolling, ect. could there be anything else loos in the front end that would cause the axle nut to come loose? zach

01-04-2005, 10:06 PM	#9
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	well, when i took it apart the second time top put the new wheelbearings and seal in, the inside race was loose... i didnt need to drive it out. the new one was the same way, so i thgink i need to get a new hub/rotor. it still clunks like the initial probleom... so the race must not be tight enough and thats where my slop is at. has anyone had this probleom? zach

01-05-2005, 02:05 AM	#10
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Sounds likely. I wonder of someone on this board has specs for what the hub dimensions should be to properly retain a race. Then again, if it is loose and you have the right bearing race, the hub must be worn behind the race. Did you have metal shavings or evidence of the race scratching or scoring the hub from rotating in its mounting location? Did the back side of the old race show signs of having moved while in the hub? Either the race is worn, the hub is worn, or both. Since the new race didn't press fit, the hub must be worn. But like I asked, you should see evidence of a race having spun in its mounting location __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 01-05-2005 at 02:07 AM.

01-05-2005, 09:31 PM	#11
BurnoutNova Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: CA Posts: 2,057	i bought a new hub today, and had the old rotor pressed onto the new hub. once i got home, i noticed the innter bearing race on the new rotor was to large for my bearing... so i took it back along with my original and the guy says i have the "early" hub. i guess theres 2 ubs for a 71 4x4, early and late? anyway, he cant get the one i need... si i guess in eed a used one??? anyone ran into THIs crap??? i almost thought he was full of it, an early and late hub? and is a 73 4x4 hub the same as my 71 should be??? thanks, zach

01-06-2005, 03:38 AM	#13
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	The new bearing does fit over the spindle at it's intended place with a precision fit, right? I'm not so knowledgeable on parts application info with regard to D44 axles. I would verify that you have the right bearings at a bearing sales store. Take both the old and new for comparison. Cheaper prices than auto parts stores, too. My local store's techs still pull out the books to look up info. I can read what they see, only upside down. One of my many useful, yet unprofitable talents. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

01-06-2005, 11:23 AM	#14
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,407	If you have a major problem locating the correct hub, you can also change over to a later model spindle that will accomodate the available hub. Personally I like having the larger bearings for the larger tires. GM went to the 'large' bearing hubs/spindles in 1978 I believe. The only difference is the inner bearing, everything else is the same as the 71



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