Manual choke help.

[ghostvbhc]

I've recently purchased a manual choke conversion kit from o'reillys and we're having a bit of a problem with getting it to work. We've installed it and the cable is on the carburetor and its pulling it back, but I have to hold it that position for the it to stay and keep warming up. Has anybody out one of these in and what's the best way to get to work where I don't have to hold the cable and I can just pull it out and it'll stay? Also, what's the best way to get it to turn off when I push the cable back in so it doesn't stay idoling high? Any tips or help would w greatly appreciated.
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[geezer#99]

Take a pic of what you got on your carb.

[68gmsee]

A picture of how you have it cabled would help. Are you going from non manual to manual? Also, is it on your truck with 250 six and is it stock with single rochester carb?

My 68 GMC with 250 and single monojet is manual choke and I have lots of pics.

[ghostvbhc]

I'm currently at work, but when I get home I will take a picture of it. And, yes it's a 250 with a single Rochester carb and I am going from non manual to manual. Also, if you could post some good pictures of how you have yours hooked up, that would be awesome.

[68gmsee]

Here's some. Let me know if you need more. The bracket holding the choke cable can be made with sheet metal if you don't have one on yours or you can rig some other bracket on there.

[ghostvbhc]

Okay, so we hooked up another manual choke in the truck this weekend but however, we're still having issues. The choke is hooked up, but when you start the truck and pull on the choke you have pull on it extremely hard and hold it there for the truck to be warm up. Everytime we let it go, it pulls back just enough that it kills it and we can't figure out why.

Here's some pictures of the setup:

[70STOVEBOLT]

Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like your cable housing is too close to the choke lever on the carb. You need to have a couple inches between where the wire connects to the lever and the cable housing so you will get full travel when you pull the knob out. I don't think you are getting full travel.

[TBONE1964]

What i can see from the pic is something that looks like a round spring up near the chock blade side of the linkage. If that is a spring, is it wanting to pull the chock open. If you disconnct the chock cable and pull the chock closed by hand does it feel like there is spring tension pulling the chock blade open?

Just my thoughts. I may be wrong about the spring but it looks like one.

Good Luck

[TBONE1964]

Sorry about the last post. I was not aware those were not pictures of your carb but 68gmsee's.

Anyway, make sure the chock does not have spring tension pulling it open.

[ghostvbhc]

Well, it seems like we're getting full travel when we pull out on the cord. We don't think that's the problem. Any more thoughts? It seems like the choke cable is pulling itself back when you let go of it. Unless you pull it all the way out and hold it the truck won't warm up and it dies.

[68gmsee]

Few things to try...

Take a picuture of the back side (firewall side) of the carb like the one I sent so we can see how the cam and linkage is assembled.

Also the choke should not pull back when released. Shouldn't have any spring tension other than a slight movement. Take the breather off and see if the choke moves freely without it.

If it's still stiff, disconnect the choke from the end of of the cable and see if it moves freely then. If it moves freely after you disconnect it, then there's something wrong with the cable and you need to either exchange it or buy another from a different vendor.

[ghostvbhc]

Here are two pictures from the firewall side:

[ghostvbhc]

Here's some more pictures of it:

[70STOVEBOLT]

Have someone look down into the carb while you pull the knob to make sure the choke is closing all the way and not coming back open when you release it. It may just need adjustment.

[70STOVEBOLT]

In that last pic, what is that resting against the left side of the choke plate?

[68gmsee]

Did you try the checks I mentioned above?

I notice on your pic that you have a choke pull off on you carb. It may be that it's what's pulling your choke closed again when you release it. But there's still something wrong cause it shouldn't be that hard to pull the choke.

[ghostvbhc]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

In that last pic, what is that resting against the left side of the choke plate?

I have no idea and we did the thing were someone looks into the carb and makes sure the choke plate closes all the way, but when you start it and pull the choke out and let go of it the choke plate opens up just enough to kill the engine.

And, I'm gonna have to check the things you mentioned 68gmsee, but I have to have my father come home from work to do that.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

In that last pic, what is that resting against the left side of the choke plate?

That's the choke pull off I mentioned above. It's pulls the choke open like a pull off on a qjet carb when the engine is started. I described it wrong on last post. The pull off is usually disconnected on some carbs I've seen to prevent it from opening. The two I have with manual choke don't have one.

[geezer#99]

You should have hooked your cable to the other side of the carb. Made a small bracket so it works the same direction. The way you have it now when you pull on it you're binding the high idle linkage.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

That's the choke pull off I mentioned above. It's pulls the choke open like a pull off on a qjet carb when the engine is started. I described it wrong on last post. The pull off is usually disconnected on some carbs I've seen to prevent it from opening. The two I have with manual choke don't have one.

I have not seen an "internal" pull-off like that. Usually there is an external diaphragm with a vacuum hose and a linkage rod attached to the choke lever.
The pull-off will have to be disconnected to use the hand choke.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

I have not seen an "internal" pull-off like that. Usually there is an external diaphragm with a vacuum hose and a linkage rod attached to the choke lever.
The pull-off will have to be disconnected to use the hand choke.

Yes, I agree. I think the carb is also a divorced choke carb from the link bellcrank on the front of the carb. A lot of remanufactured carbs are put back together with parts from different models and/or years these days.

from Canadian72GMC -http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202024 Link rod on left side is divorced choke link to exhaust manifold.

[70STOVEBOLT]

I'd say you are right.

[geezer#99]

Another thing to look at is your return spring. Where it's hooked almost at the centre of the throttle shaft. More binding.

[ghostvbhc]

I took that thing off that you guys were talking about it no longer has the problem. Thanks guys for all the help.
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[70STOVEBOLT]

Good deal, glad you got it going.