The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-25-2005, 03:22 AM   #1
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
Flip Kit or Lowered Leafs & Shackles

I am planning on lowering my 71 LWB. The rear suspension is leaf springs and I was wondering how many inches a flip kit would lower the bed? The total I can get with new lowered leafs and shackles is 4" + 1.5" = 5.5". Let me know your opinion on both methods of lowering.

Plans for the front drop is 2.5" spindles and 1" springs. What are the other options and your opinion?

I am thinking of rebuilding the frontend at the same time. Should I buy a kit or pieces from Autozone or Kragens or ? Thank in advance.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2005, 01:01 PM   #2
my new 72
faster, faster, faster
 
my new 72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA
Posts: 1,354
if yu flip it you will have to notch it with that much drop or you will bottom out on the frame rails alot. And forget about hauling anything. I would do the drop leafs and shackles, you will still need to notch, but just not as much, and it will ride better. I lowered the 72 my dad drives with 4" leasfs and it rides sweet, no notch, but with the 5.5, I would notch. With the 3.5 up front, and the 5.5 out back it will sit perfectly level too, provivding the tires are the same diameter all around.
__________________
I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice.
my new 72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2005, 01:08 PM   #3
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,947
A flip kit will get the same drop w/o having to knock out all the rivets & doesn't change your current spring rate. I believe flip kits are even cheaper than the 'shackles & hanger' combo but I'm not 100% sure on that.

I say flip it & get a bolt in c-section.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2005, 01:25 PM   #4
my new 72
faster, faster, faster
 
my new 72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Houston ,Texas ,USA
Posts: 1,354
I am not sure, but I don't think shackles require that you to relocate the mounts. The drop leafs also have the stock spring rate, just not as much arch. And I am nervous about the bolt in anything right there. The leafs are around 350 or so, and the shackles I am not sure about.
__________________
I'm going to Law School, wanna debate? It's good practice.
my new 72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2005, 02:01 PM   #5
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,947
Quote:
Originally Posted by my new 72
I am not sure, but I don't think shackles require that you to relocate the mounts. The drop leafs also have the stock spring rate, just not as much arch. And I am nervous about the bolt in anything right there. The leafs are around 350 or so, and the shackles I am not sure about.
Yes, your correct & I will be more specific.

The 'shackles & hangers' route is more work because you have to unbolt the springs & remove all the rivets for the front hanger. The rear shackle simply requires unbolting the spring & swapping the shackle after unbolting it from the hanger.

The bolt in c-notches have been used on many different applications for many years w/o issue. If the 'bolt-in' feature is a concern, a person could always bolt it in & then have it welded @ a shop or something (this is what I did when I knew I would be pulling my car trailer more frequently).

If your even remotely close to the price on the dropped leafs, the flip kit is much cheaper. I looked up pricing in an old CCP catalog I have:
63-72 Rear leafs (dropped or stock height).. = $369 + 63-72 Drop shackles @ $69 = $438.

The flip kit is $150 @ Sport Truck Direct & $140 @ DJM. The c-notch is a wash because either method of drop, if over a certain amount, will require one.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 06-25-2005 at 02:12 PM.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 12:21 AM   #6
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
Thanks for the double Texas support. The members of this board are a dream come true. Father, big brother, mechnaic, engineer, dreamer and practician all in one.

I was not aware that I had to relocate anything if I used the drop leafs and extended shackles. I would have been totally unhappy finding out I had to relocate the brackets.

As the truck sits now the tires are 275x60x15 and are 27" high. The front fender-well is 5.5" off the tire. The rear fender-well is 6.5" off the tire. How high should the stock front and rear fender-wells be off the tire? I would like to lower the truck to the top of the tires or within 3/4".

Do any of you know the number of inches that the flip kit will lower the rear? I was excited about getting a new spring to improve the ride. Guess I will remove the leaf springs, take them apart, clean and smooth the individual leafs, and reinstall them using sheets of a word I can't think of at this moment. I plan on relocating the rear shocks and replacing the ball-joints and bushings with another pair of A-arms. This will allow me to complete the project quicker and get the truck rolling again.

Then I want to relocate the gas tank and get some of the body work started that needs welding. The bed has gas tank doors on both sides though no gas tanks. Would a truck with two side tanks have heavier suspension that would make it sit higher than the average bear?

I also plan on towing a 14 foot camping trailer. That is if I can convince my neighbor to sell it to me. Older Nomad with toilet / shower and awning. Where is the beer

Thanks again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
Yes, your correct & I will be more specific.

The 'shackles & hangers' route is more work because you have to unbolt the springs & remove all the rivets for the front hanger. The rear shackle simply requires unbolting the spring & swapping the shackle after unbolting it from the hanger.

The bolt in c-notches have been used on many different applications for many years w/o issue. If the 'bolt-in' feature is a concern, a person could always bolt it in & then have it welded @ a shop or something (this is what I did when I knew I would be pulling my car trailer more frequently).

If your even remotely close to the price on the dropped leafs, the flip kit is much cheaper. I looked up pricing in an old CCP catalog I have:
63-72 Rear leafs (dropped or stock height).. = $369 + 63-72 Drop shackles @ $69 = $438.

The flip kit is $150 @ Sport Truck Direct & $140 @ DJM. The c-notch is a wash because either method of drop, if over a certain amount, will require one.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2005, 01:08 AM   #7
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,947
The amount of drop from a flip kit is dependant on the numbers of leafs in the spring pack.

Typical 1/2 tons have 5-leaf spring packs that would yield about 5" of drop & the HD option was 8-leaf spring packs which are closer to 6" of drop.

If your plan is to swap out the a-arms w/another set that's already been rebuilt, upgrade to the 73 & later arms to get the better riding rubber bushings vs. your current steel/rubber-lined bushings. I have both year models that are dropped w/the same methods & you can definitely tell the difference.

Good luck regardless of which method you choose.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2005, 02:00 AM   #8
tomatocity
Registered User
 
tomatocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
Thanks Scoti for the drop information and the tip about the 73 & later A-arms. Did you use stock bushings or aftermarket? Any suggestions? Tim

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
The amount of drop from a flip kit is dependant on the numbers of leafs in the spring pack.

Typical 1/2 tons have 5-leaf spring packs that would yield about 5" of drop & the HD option was 8-leaf spring packs which are closer to 6" of drop.

If your plan is to swap out the a-arms w/another set that's already been rebuilt, upgrade to the 73 & later arms to get the better riding rubber bushings vs. your current steel/rubber-lined bushings. I have both year models that are dropped w/the same methods & you can definitely tell the difference.

Good luck regardless of which method you choose.
__________________
Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck.
tomatocity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2005, 01:05 PM   #9
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,947
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity
....Did you use stock bushings or aftermarket? Any suggestions? Tim
Stock rubber bushings. I also have stock rubber bushings in my AirRide control arms but they're not installed on anything that's actually being driven @ this time.
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com