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Old 06-27-2005, 09:53 AM   #1
FUNMUDDER
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lift kits

Hello everyone, I just joined this forum the other day because i wanted to build up a old 3/4 ton 4x4 chevy (lift kit, tires, engine, etc.) I have followed this forum for about a month or two, and finally decided to join. I figured a old chevy truck as a first truck would be really cool (at least to me) and very safe. So, heres my question:

How big of tires can i put on a 67-72 chevy with a 4 inch tuff country lift? Are lift blocks on the rear springs safe to use? I read somewhere if you are cornering or braking, they can spit themselves out from underneath the truck and lose control of the vehicle. Then I also heard that they can cause something called axle wrap? Could someone tell me what exactly that is? Thank you for the answers. I really appreciate all of you helping me out, since you guys know these trucks inside and out.
-Jake
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:40 AM   #2
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All spring lfts are best.tuff country makes a good lift,at reasonable prices.I have a 4" with 35's.It is a street only truck.It will hit offroad.6"with 35's for off road.Blocks are o k for a street only truck,but I would save a little longer for springs.The blocks will let the rear put a lot of leverage against the springs,and twist them under power,which is were the spring wrap comes from.
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Old 06-27-2005, 10:48 AM   #3
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Could I put add-a-leafs on the rear springs to make them stronger so I can use the blocks or not?
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:16 AM   #4
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Yes you can use add a leafs and a 2" block.The add a leafs will not help the ride.You can also do this...http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:18 AM   #5
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You can do add a leafs on the rear but to make up for the 4 inches in the front you will have a thick stack of leafs in the rear then it would be a log wagon, been there done that.
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:56 AM   #6
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Blocks are ok. They only add lift, not extra articulation. If you plan on towing anything heavy, blocks aren't the best. If your truck is going to be mostly a street truck, blocks are also ok, but the ride won't be as good as a full spring lift though.

4" of lift is ok for 35's for street use. If you are going to take it off road, 6" of lift is best. Even with 6", you may have some rubbing at full articulation.

You can still get axle wrap with springs, but it is less likely. You probably won't have a problem with it with blocks unless you have a high HP or touque engine.

I have block lifts on both of my Blazers and I haven't had a problem. They are both street trucks though and I haven't taken them out 4x4ing. My '69 has a 6" lift with 35's. It's a bouncy ride (hence my board name - my wife named my truck bouncytruck. She calls my '72 bouncy2 since I got it after the other.)
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Old 06-27-2005, 11:58 AM   #7
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33s to small 35s. Rim width and back spacing plays a part also. Keeping the axle as close to the springs in the rear is best and keeping the spring as flat as possible helps, so the shackle flip would be great. I have 4" rear springs on my GMC and the axle still wants to twist, traction bars would help if done correctly(not interfere w/ articulation, just prevent axle rotation). The 4" blocks on my Chevy are worse for axle wrap. Do not use blocks up front, blocks have been used in the rear by all the manufacturers at one time or another. Damn ford people even stack them. Welcome to the board. Get up with Mike Files he's up your way.
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1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:15 PM   #8
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I installed the Off-Road Designs shackle flip kit on my '76 4x4. I absolutely love it...

You get better articulation and a softer ride because the stock springs are used, as well as better driveline angle and the stability of not using blocks.

I've got 33x12.50 tires all around.
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Old 06-28-2005, 07:55 AM   #9
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Springs are best in the rear.But,there`s alot of myth about blocks.The factory started this design to level a truck as leaf springs/solid axle raise the front over the stock 2wd stance.For years(20 or more)virtually every lifted truck used rear blocks.Axle wrap is only a problem with high-horsepower or on pavement(high traction)when strain on the entire driveline is at a critical point.Something`s gotta give.Axle wrap causes wheel-hop.Something I`ve only experienced laying rubber on the street with 37"Swampers,so I got traction bars.They eliminate that problem(and sway bars help).But,you loose articulation.The best is springs.If springs are good,shackle flips up to 4",add-a-leaf for 2",or combine.On a K/30 I had,I did add-a-leafs and a 2" block,better than 4" blocks.You will go around in circles with the cost.Springs cost about the same as shackle-flip and blocks are cheapest.Combinations close in the gap to where you`re close to the spring/shackle-flip cost.
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Last edited by special-K; 06-28-2005 at 07:57 AM. Reason: spalled werds rong
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:18 PM   #10
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Go with a rear shackle flip. They are half the cost of springs and much better. A 4" spring is going to ride stiffer and not flex as well as a stock rear spring. 35's will clear as long as you don't wheel it hard. I have a 6" lift and 35's and my fenders are cut and they still rub. I'm running 4" block and 2" re-arched stock springs with custom shock mounts and get 26" of flex on the rear axle alone and it rides smooth as a Caddy. I gotta get the other truck running so I can shackle flip this one. Nice choice with the Tuff Country suspension. I'm swapping my front springs out for Tuff Country's as they are the lowest spring rate without going custom. They have awesome flex, but drop your bumpstops 1-2" because when they go negative alot they sag quit a bit.
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Last edited by ryan68; 06-28-2005 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 07-03-2005, 03:47 PM   #11
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how big of tires can I fit on it with stock suspension? I would like to get a set of 285/75/r16 Buckshot Mudder tires. will they fit with no mods at all?
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Old 07-03-2005, 03:49 PM   #12
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Im going to use the money to soup up a engine rather than put it towards a lift.
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Old 07-03-2005, 08:39 PM   #13
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I had 325/60R15s on my GMC before I lifted it. would rub while turning and flexing at the same time. You easily go with a 31-32" on 8" wide rim.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 07-03-2005, 08:49 PM   #14
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I used skyjacker softride 6" springs in front with blocks in back, it rides like a caddy, flexs well and has no axle wrap issues. I put 33"s on this truck before i lifted it, but they did rub offroad. Good Luck.
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:32 AM   #15
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I had 33x10.50's on 8" wide rims and didn't rub stock height. Of course the wider tire and rim you go with, the more likely you are to rub.
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71 Suburban 4x4 (350,TH350) 7" lift 37's, D44/14 bolt and other sorts of goodies, lockers front and rear, flexes 40", 895 RTI score
Check out my web site!!! http://www.geocities.com/cst68chevy/
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Old 07-09-2005, 08:58 PM   #16
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could i use just 2 inch add-a-leafs to get 285/75s or 33s in and get more tire clearance? add-a-leafs are really cheap from jc whitney
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:45 AM   #17
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2" with 285/75x16s(32.5")on 8" rims works.Gettin`real twisty they can rub.I always make sure my wheels are either pretty straight or full-locked to avoid rubbing when putting a tire up on something.You can run those tires on a stock rim.They crown some,but I went over 100,000 miles that way on my`92 K3500.
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GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project)
GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling)
Tim

"Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman"

R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:20 PM   #18
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How high can you lift before having to get new driveshafts..or other peices?
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Old 07-12-2005, 02:08 PM   #19
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Quote:
could i use just 2 inch add-a-leafs to get 285/75s or 33s in and get more tire clearance? add-a-leafs are really cheap from jc whitney
Yep did that on an 85, 33" tires on 10" wide rims.

Quote:
How high can you lift before having to get new driveshafts..or other peices?
I'm going to lengthen my drive shafts w/ 6" of lift. They work now but I also have some side play in my slip joints so might as well lengthen them when I have the slipjoints fixed. steering needs mods at about 4+", at least a raised steering arm or dropped pitman arm, also consider crossover steering.
Brake lines will either need to be relocated below the frame or longer ones installed, at about 4".
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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