C30 first gen cummins swap part what did you use for...

[jarrodblake]

I have a 1970 C30, That I am doing a first gen cummins swap on. I have a few questions on what I need to finish the swap.

What temp sensor or fitting adaptor should I use to use the stock temp gauge?

What power steering lines do I need. I have 92 cummins to a 95 chevy astro van hydro boost to either a 1970 or 1975 power steering box?

What throttle cable can I use for a 92 cummins they no longer sell replacements. I have a custom pedal so I can use whatever on that end.

Anyone do a one wire conversion on there alternator? If so can I still wire in a w wire for a tachometer?

I plan on installing the 89-91 suburban 40 gallon tank. Can I use the 89-91 suburban sending unit for fuel delivery and return? and is it compatible with the stock gauge?

[Dieselwrencher]

Get yourself a 3/4" pipe plug and drill and tap it for the stock chevy temp sensor. The power steering lines from the 92 dodge might work. If you put a 78 or so up steering box on it they should work. You could use a throttle cable for a 94-98 dodge diesel or maybe even a 5.4 or V10 gas super duty cable. I used a freightliner FL70 one on my truck. I haven't used any of the one wire alt conversions. I have used the ford external regulators to control the dodge alternators. You can get a diesel sending unit for the burb tank and then the feed line is larger and yes it should be the same 0-90ohm for the gauge.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Get yourself a 3/4" pipe plug and drill and tap it for the stock chevy temp sensor. The power steering lines from the 92 dodge might work. If you put a 78 or so up steering box on it they should work. You could use a throttle cable for a 94-98 dodge diesel or maybe even a 5.4 or V10 gas super duty cable. I used a freightliner FL70 one on my truck. I haven't used any of the one wire alt conversions. I have used the ford external regulators to control the dodge alternators. You can get a diesel sending unit for the burb tank and then the feed line is larger and yes it should be the same 0-90ohm for the gauge.

Thanks for getting back to me. The stock chevy temp sensor ended up being 1/2 npt. So I ended up using a brass 3/4 npt to 1/2 npt adapter.

I think I may break down and buy the https://www.dieselconversion.com/che...v-cummins.html line, I was hoping I could cheap out and buy a adapter fitting or a cheap line that already had the ends I needed.

As for the throttle cable I ended up buying a cheap universal cable off amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0795B2518...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I ended up ordering the one wire conversion kit. I emailed the manufacturer, they said it should work, if not i'll try a ford unit.

Awesome, I did not even think of using a diesel sending unit in the tank.

At the moment I have been trying to decide the best way to make the turbo clear the heater box. I want to run a hx35 I had bought for a different project that didn't happen. But the heater box is in the way I can't even get it on. The h1c goes on no problem but I can't fit a downpipe. My two options are 1, flip the manifold or 2 cut the heater box. I don't like the idea of cutting the box as I hate working with fiberglass. But at the same time. I think it would be more wore to flip the manifold. Mainly I am afraid I will snap one of the rear bolts and not being able to get to it with a drill and have to pull the engine.

[Dieselwrencher]

On my truck I flipped the manifold. I also have a HT60 tucked in between the block and the stock HVAC housing. My down pipe took a lot of work since the HT60 outlet is 5" but I got it all in there. In the past, I have cut the stock exhaust manifold flange right off, adjusted the angle and welded it back on at a different angle. I heat the pieces with a torch then I weld them with a mig welder. I have never had one crack or fail and all have been on the road for years.

[jarrodblake]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

On my truck I flipped the manifold. I also have a HT60 tucked in between the block and the stock HVAC housing. My down pipe took a lot of work since the HT60 outlet is 5" but I got it all in there. In the past, I have cut the stock exhaust manifold flange right off, adjusted the angle and welded it back on at a different angle. I heat the pieces with a torch then I weld them with a mig welder. I have never had one crack or fail and all have been on the road for years.

Last night and when I got up this morning I sprayed some WD40 on the manifold bolts. I got them all out without breaking them! When I test fit the turbo I was thinking how easy it would be to run compound turbos, Maybe be one day. But for now I just want it get it back on the road. It looks like I will have to clearance the manifold to clear the turbo. I had thought about cutting the manifold and moving the flange and inch forward but with the divided manifold it would be more work than what its worth to me.

Now my biggest problem is the wastegate is hitting the heater box. I'm going to try and cut the mount and see if I can slide it over to make it clear the box If not My only two options are to weld the wastegate shut or install the H1C exhaust housing.

IMAG2822 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

IMAG2823 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr

[burnin oil]

I would be tempted to flip that manifold to get the exhaust further away from the heater box. Its not uncommon to 1500 degrees on a hot rod Cummins and that exhaust housing will hold a good bit of it for some time. Its been a few years but I want to say my 12v was around 650 degrees EGTs cruising on somewhat level ground.