How to remove non A/C blower motor?

[Mister-B]

Mine is making some noise. Almost like it needs to be lubed, but it could just be going out. So, I'll either remove it and lube it, or install a different one.

Question: can it be uninstalled by just removing the outer bolts that surround it, or does the whole housing that holds the heater core need to come out? Sure would be nice if I can get to it easy like I'm hoping, by just removing those bolts that hold it on
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[1972BackInBlackC10]

its just the screws that hold the fan in, take them out nd the motor will pop out you dont need to take the whole heater box assembly off

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by 1972BackInBlackC10

its just the screws that hold the fan in, take them out nd the motor will pop out you dont need to take the whole heater box assembly off

Wonderful news! Thanks
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[darush01]

I took mine out to get the rats nest out and i had to take my hood and the hinge off because it hit and wouldnt come out but i had it out and cleaned out in less than 2 hours it was put back together and working good
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[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by darush01

I took mine out to get the rats nest out and i had to take my hood and the hinge off because it hit and wouldnt come out but i had it out and cleaned out in less than 2 hours it was put back together and working good
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Do you have an A/C model?
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[pritch]

I can't remember if the hinge is in the way or not, but it's only a few more bolts to undo. The ones that hold the hinge to the fender. Just remember to mark where the bolts are so it goes back the same. I need to do that same thing. Troubleshoot my entire heater in ol'green. These last couple of weeks has really shown how deficient it is.

[oklalawnboy]

Had to remove hood hinge when i took my blower motor out. I have a/c truck

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by pritch

I can't remember if the hinge is in the way or not, but it's only a few more bolts to undo. The ones that hold the hinge to the fender. Just remember to mark where the bolts are so it goes back the same. I need to do that same thing. Troubleshoot my entire heater in ol'green. These last couple of weeks has really shown how deficient it is.

Oh, that's right. You took the blower outta that 68 at the junk yard I frequent. I bought the door panel trim, and I believe the heater vent hoses and defrost vents out of that same truck.

Man, my heating situation was really bad when I got this truck. It didn't even have a heater core. The blower housing was full of leaves. I had to replace the heater control, because it snapped away from the rivets that hold the face on. Both defrost hoses were broken or missing. My defrost vents were cracked and barely hanging on. I got all of that fixed. I did it myself for about $80 in parts. Not bad. It gets so toasty and warm in there now. It's just sort of noisy at times when the blower squeaks, so I'm hoping I can get a better used one off a newer 71, and lube it up really good while I've got it apart
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[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by oklalawnboy

Had to remove hood hinge when i took my blower motor out. I have a/c truck

Does the hood just support itself from the other hinge while you do the work?
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[pritch]

Originally Posted by Mister-B

Does the hood just support itself from the other hinge while you do the work?
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It's best to have a helper, but if not, you need a broomstick or something to hold the hood up. Once you get the bolts out, the hinge will just drop straight down and sit on the inner fender. Sit it on some card board or something if you're worried about scratching the paint on the inner fender.

[Tx Firefighter]

Pack something soft between the hood and the cowl panel when you remove the hinge. The remaining hinge will not support the hood and it will twist back and hit the cowl once you remove the passenger side hinge. It's no big deal, just have some folded up towels or something in there to protect the paint when it happens.

[Longhorn 70]

And put an old flip-flop or 2 between the hood and the cowl if you are doing this solo. I did mine yesterday, A/C truck, and it took me about 30 minutes to pull the entire evap assy.

[darush01]

No, i have a 72 custom 20 base model
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[darush01]

I just marked everything and pulled the hood off, i was on my own and didnt wannt the hood to fall back into the cowl or winsheild, it wasnt bad, now i just need to replace the heater control and defrost vents but until i find the parts i have a hot wire and switch running from the fuse box, but the blower situation wasnt that hard just took a few mins
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[AirSpeed]

I've taken the blower motor out of several of my trucks without removing the hood hinge. I think it depends on how the truck is assembled, some come off with no problems just as some steering columns have to be lowered in order to remove the dash cluster and some don't, hopefully you won't have to remove the hinge! I would do as others suggest if you end up having to remove the hinge, stuff some towels between the hood and cowl but have a stick or something to hold the hood up as well!
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[Mister-B]

Well, I got to practice on one at the junk yard. It's pretty easy to remove one of the hinges, and it stays up just fine if you put something under the hood to protect it.

I was able to get the motor out to inspect it. I dunno. It looked pretty worn. I was hoping to get one that hadn't been stuffed with leaves and gotten wet. I would have just bought it and tried it, but I'm not paying $20 for a 40 year old motor that may or may not be good, when I can get a brand new one for $29. These junk yards are so hit and miss. Some stuff is a steal, and others are an absolute ripoff
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[stsalvage]

I have both trucks 1964 -- 72 trucks worked on both heater cores.I found out if you buy a after market heater blower motor.they give you 2 options one for heater core only and one for AC and heat I bought 2 of them found out the parts guy gave me 3 AC and heat modals I put one in my 1965 3/4 ton and one in my 1972 heat only and still have the 3erd still in the box that is ment for AC and heat the 65 man Blows so dam hard and heats up the truck really fast and very Hot.the 1972 3/4 ton use to blow ok But now Blows hard and fast take up to 5 min's to get it to 140 F in my truck cab.Now i looked at all the numbers there all the same.the AC blower motor at the parts house would cost me 35.00 the none AC one cost me 21.00 so looks like i got 3 AC blowers in all 3 of my trucks.So for now on i will just buy the AC blower motors.I do see the amp's usage is a lot higher then the old Motor use to use witch means i could where down my battery faster but can't complain about the fastness of how fast my truck heats up

[Daddy Brim]

I would just by new. Did a quick search and found this http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...709_0379045556

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by Daddy Brim

I would just by new. Did a quick search and found this http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...709_0379045556

Thanks for the suggestion. I never even thought of using them. I guess their commercials are so annoying when watching football, that I just blocked them out lol. Anyway, if get it there I don't have to pay shipping
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[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by stsalvage

I have both trucks 1964 -- 72 trucks worked on both heater cores.I found out if you buy a after market heater blower motor.they give you 2 options one for heater core only and one for AC and heat I bought 2 of them found out the parts guy gave me 3 AC and heat modals I put one in my 1965 3/4 ton and one in my 1972 heat only and still have the 3erd still in the box that is ment for AC and heat the 65 man Blows so dam hard and heats up the truck really fast and very Hot.the 1972 3/4 ton use to blow ok But now Blows hard and fast take up to 5 min's to get it to 140 F in my truck cab.Now i looked at all the numbers there all the same.the AC blower motor at the parts house would cost me 35.00 the none AC one cost me 21.00 so looks like i got 3 AC blowers in all 3 of my trucks.So for now on i will just buy the AC blower motors.I do see the amp's usage is a lot higher then the old Motor use to use witch means i could where down my battery faster but can't complain about the fastness of how fast my truck heats up

I don't see how the blower motor would effect how quickly the air it blows gets hot? It just blows the air, that's either heated or not from the heater core. Seems like maybe you've got a better heater core, radiator, radiator fluid, etc. in one of them, so the blower can blow out hot air more quickly. Right?
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[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by Daddy Brim

I would just by new. Did a quick search and found this http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...709_0379045556

Wait. Scratch that. I reserved it on their web site, but they just called and told me that it would have to ship from Kentucky, and that I'd have to pay another $10 in shipping
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[darush01]

If only i had more money than sense id grab it and drive it out there for the road trip but unfortunately im broke
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[Tx Firefighter]

That blower motor is a 20 dollar part at most any parts store. I just checked O Reilly and Autozone. Both show in stock at the local store and priced at 21 dollars. I'm sure your local store is similar.

[Daddy Brim]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That blower motor is a 20 dollar part at most any parts store. I just checked O Reilly and Autozone. Both show in stock at the local store and priced at 21 dollars. I'm sure your local store is similar.

X 2. A Lot of parts you can still get at your parts store. I always check them first before ordering on line.

[Mister-B]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

That blower motor is a 20 dollar part at most any parts store. I just checked O Reilly and Autozone. Both show in stock at the local store and priced at 21 dollars. I'm sure your local store is similar.

Good thinking. I bought my heater core from Autozone, and it works great. I'll check them out
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