Problems with small block/400 auto trans vs original staight six setup?

[sstchester]

All,
I'm getting ready to install a small block 350 with a 400 transmission in the bay of my 66 pickup.

Can anyone give advice on problems I will have? I really don't see an issue other than the current frame transmission supports, do I use those or some other style/year brackets?

Other problem I see is the linkage from transmission to firewall column, not sure on the correct setup.

Last question: I have a steering column for a three speed. Will this column shifter work for a 400 automatic transmission?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[GREASEMONKEY72]

i dont think youll have much trouble with mounting the engine and trans, i doubt youll be able to use the stock crossmember for the trans but it shouldnt be to hard to make one, as far as the shifter goes im sure youd be able to get it to work how you want it to after some work, and i know i didnt help ya but hopefully someone will chime in soon with the info you need

[Chevyboy1962]

I'm currently running the 3 speed manual steering column in my '62 with a TH350 trans. I perminately fixed the 2 tabs of the base of the column, and mounted an aftermarket steering column shift linkage from one of the tabs to the side of the trans.

Works great. I'm getting ready to install a 70 GM van automatic column in my truck, so I can have the shift indicator.
David

[Chevyboy1962]

I forgot to add, the engine mounts & towers will work with any small block other than the 265 engine. The the bell housing cross brace will need to be removed so an automatic trans can slid into the frame rails.

My bro-n-law used the old bellhousing cross brace as his trans crossbrace. Or you can use one from a '67-'87 GM truck, drill a few holes in the frame rails, and you're golden.

[jchav62]

Are the towers the same I6 to v8? I heard somewhere that the towers would have to be changed out for one out of a truck that was originally a v8. As for the tranny crossmember, the one we fabbed for my 62, we got a crossmember for a 88-98 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4..Shortened it up, and cut a notch in the center, worked excellent! That xmember was easy to work with because its pretty straight and symmetrical. Well, come to think of it, the piece of angle iron that I had used for a crossmember before work fine too...

[mbgmike]

The v8 and I6 chairs are different. Many people have used the I6 chairs though. If you use the I6 chairs and leave them in the stock position it will move your motor back and you may or may not be able to get the distributor out easily. I've been told by others and they did that and did not have any trouble but i like the distributor to come out easily. If you use the v8 chairs in the forword holes in the crossmember it moves you motor up the the front but then you have to use a short water pump and if using full length headers they come close to the a-arms and brake lines. Not a big problem. Or if using stock manifolds or shorty headers it is ok. I did that on my personal 65 because I also wanted to use the one piece driveshaft I had laying around and it fit better in the forword location. The I6 is a longer motor and thats why they have the two sets of mounting holes. Maybe this helped.

[timag79]

the i6 and smallblock engine towers are identical the big block towers from later models are different as for the crossmember (tranny ) it needs to go an auto crossmember from auto truck can be acquired at scrap yard 1960 - 1986 should work fine 1960 -1972 definately will work good luck

[LILRED66]

Start by pulling the stock manual tranny cross member. This will create more clearance and make things easier. Replace the manual tranny cross member with a stock '64-'66 Chevy automatic tranny cross member. Do this after the engine and tranny assembly are in the engine bay and close to their final resting place on the motor mount perches. With the pillow blocks installed and the bolts loosely installed, move the cross member into position.

There are many options for an automatic cross member, that will do the trick, however the factory automatic tranny cross member from a '64-'66 Chevy truck is a direct bolt-in, utilizing the factory holes in the frame rails, even if it was a manual set-up from the factory.

I utilized the factory perches on a stock straight six on a '66 Chevy K10 with a 327 V8 from a donor '66 Chevy C20. The alignment, geometry and spacing was all correct and allowed proper spacing for a short water pump, flex fan and factory Harrison 4 core radiator and factory V8 fan shroud and the radiator mounted in the stock tank cradles on the radiator cross member.

FYI, I installed the engine/tranny assembly by myself with the help of an engine hoist and load leveler, however a spare set of hands to guide the tranny tail is very helpful, not to mention safer. I put the factory auto tranny cross member in place, after the assembly was close to its resting place and then adjusted it accordingly. When you are happy with the alignment, geometry and clearances, attach the tranny tail to the factory cross member with two bolts installed loosely into the tail housing. Loosely install the eight bolts, nuts and washers into the tranny cross member, securing it to the frame rails. The cross member installs between the top and bottom legs of the frame rail, not on the top or bottom. It fits snugly between the top & bottom legs and this captures the cross member.

When you are satisfied that everything is in good order, tighten the six bolts on the motor mounts, the two bolts on the tranny tail and the eight bolts on the tranny cross member at the frame rails. I went with a factory automatic cross member, because it also has the mounting brackets for the factory emergency brake cables, not to mention, I like stock over aftermarket on my rigs.

I hope this information is helpful and I wish I had some pictures to support the narrative.

Tony