Building a frame table/Jig table...

[Rokcrln]

I am getting ready to build a frame table for my shop. I build alot of roll cages and some tube chassie rock crawler/ dune buggys. Now I need to build a new frame (back half) for my 71 SWB 2wd and figured it is about time I spend the money and time to build a table to do this work on.

I am planning on using 4" H-beam 13lbs steel for the main table with H-beam cross suports as well. I have seen a few built out of tube but for me it would be nice to have the entire edge for clamping your work down to. The table will be aprx 15' x 40" and I have not yet figured out how high I want it. It will have good casters on it to move it around but also have adjustable feet to lock it in place and level it out.

What do you guys think that have worked on them before? Any other ideas I have not thought of or other things to work into the design? Any pic's would be nice as well.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Kevin

[cornutz]

I would venture to ask valleycustoms..... he has been busy on this thread with his kick A$$ frame and modifications....

just my .02

[Bowtie67]

If this is the only frame you are going to do, I would use boxed steel or something you could possibly use after you are done with it. I used 2x2 boxed steel to keep costs down, after I am done and if I dont need the setup I can easily chop it and make different things with the 2x2's. I also used the somewhat heavy duty Plastic horses that you can get at Home depot, 2 will work but you should have enough so there isnt any flex while your working on it, Clamps are cheap so have many. Bacuse I didnt put any legs on it I can also carry it up into my 2nd floor of my garage as a table or for later use.

After my base build of the frame I put the whole setup on a Scizzor type Lift and bolted the bed/cab/frontend & suspension on and will finish up most all the rest of the work there still keeping my table bolted and clamped to the frame till I dont need it any more.

[bighead]

For me the ultimate would be a piece of jig plate with a grid of drilled and tapped 3/8ths holes covering it. This would rest on a steel frame with adjustable feet. Fixtures could be built and bolted to the table to position and clamp the tubing. That being said, my current drag car project was fabbed on a stainless table with a smooth top about 16' long and 4' wide.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am getting ready to build a frame table for my shop. I build alot of roll cages and some tube chassie rock crawler/ dune buggys. Now I need to build a new frame (back half) for my 71 SWB 2wd and figured it is about time I spend the money and time to build a table to do this work on.

I am planning on using 4" H-beam 13lbs steel for the main table with H-beam cross suports as well. I have seen a few built out of tube but for me it would be nice to have the entire edge for clamping your work down to. The table will be aprx 15' x 40" and I have not yet figured out how high I want it. It will have good casters on it to move it around but also have adjustable feet to lock it in place and level it out.

What do you guys think that have worked on them before? Any other ideas I have not thought of or other things to work into the design? Any pic's would be nice as well.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Kevin

I built my table out of 3x3 3/16" box. Your idea should work fine, but if you build tube chassis why don't you build a table out of 3/4" plate. I have a few friends that build tube chassis and they found that a table like this works great for both frame rails and tubular chassis.

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

I am getting ready to build a frame table for my shop. I build alot of roll cages and some tube chassie rock crawler/ dune buggys. Now I need to build a new frame (back half) for my 71 SWB 2wd and figured it is about time I spend the money and time to build a table to do this work on.

I am planning on using 4" H-beam 13lbs steel for the main table with H-beam cross suports as well. I have seen a few built out of tube but for me it would be nice to have the entire edge for clamping your work down to. The table will be aprx 15' x 40" and I have not yet figured out how high I want it. It will have good casters on it to move it around but also have adjustable feet to lock it in place and level it out.

What do you guys think that have worked on them before? Any other ideas I have not thought of or other things to work into the design? Any pic's would be nice as well.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Kevin

I just checked out your profile and I noticed that your into VW's. My first car was a 66 Fast back. Then I picked up a 57 oval form some guys orchard. I did a pan up resto and when I was finished I had a 2016 with CB fuel injection with a TO4. My fastest et was 12.6 with street tires. Where is winters near? I've never heard of it. I think I already talked to you over email because I saw the orange C-10. I also built a custom intake and intercooler system for a 65 bug with a 2332 that's running a custom EFI system. That thing is in the mid to low 11's once he get's it dialed in.

Later
Jr

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Bowtie67

If this is the only frame you are going to do, I would use boxed steel or something you could possibly use after you are done with it. I used 2x2 boxed steel to keep costs down, after I am done and if I dont need the setup I can easily chop it and make different things with the 2x2's. I also used the somewhat heavy duty Plastic horses that you can get at Home depot, 2 will work but you should have enough so there isnt any flex while your working on it, Clamps are cheap so have many. Bacuse I didnt put any legs on it I can also carry it up into my 2nd floor of my garage as a table or for later use.

After my base build of the frame I put the whole setup on a Scizzor type Lift and bolted the bed/cab/frontend & suspension on and will finish up most all the rest of the work there still keeping my table bolted and clamped to the frame till I dont need it any more.

No I do alot of frame and chassie work but have never had a shop at home big enough to allow for a monster frame table. Here are a few of my more recent projects that would have been alot easier with a frame table.
Once it is done it will get a 1/2" to 3/4" plate covering the table for most jobs.

Kevin

[cornutz]

That is some sick A$$ articulation on that bronco.... what a beast that thing must be up in the hills!!

Nice Work!!!

[Bowtie67]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

No I do alot of frame and chassie work but have never had a shop at home big enough to allow for a monster frame table. Here are a few of my more recent projects that would have been alot easier with a frame table.
Once it is done it will get a 1/2" to 3/4" plate covering the table for most jobs.

Kevin

Those are nice, I didnt realize that you wanted something like this for a permanent setup, in that case I wouldn't cut any corners and get what ever could benefit current and any future builds, myself I hate buying/doing something that I plan on using or end up having to redo or repurchase what I should have done to begin with.

[Rokcrln]

That is just why I am posting this! I can have a problem sometimes with tunnel vision and once I get an idea in my "air trap" I just go for it and once it is done I think "Oh I should have..." So any ideas would be great.

Bighead~ I hear what you are saying about the bolt down option but I have two thoughts on that. 1. I would worry about all the welding, cutting and grinding messing up the threads. 2. My friends Dad always welded the work to the table and said bolting things down will still let them move just a bit as you weld things up. I think he is right on this but at the same time he built race chassies for Huffaker racing and used dial calipers on frame work How about sizes and heights, any opions?

Kevin

[valleycustom]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

That is just why I am posting this! I can have a problem sometimes with tunnel vision and once I get an idea in my "air trap" I just go for it and once it is done I think "Oh I should have..." So any ideas would be great.

Bighead~ I hear what you are saying about the bolt down option but I have two thoughts on that. 1. I would worry about all the welding, cutting and grinding messing up the threads. 2. My friends Dad always welded the work to the table and said bolting things down will still let them move just a bit as you weld things up. I think he is right on this but at the same time he built race chassies for Huffaker racing and used dial calipers on frame work How about sizes and heights, any opions?

Kevin

Kevin,

If you swing buy next week you can check out my table and that should give you a good idea where to start. I checked out your other threads and your work is outstanding. I would like to do a little sponging off of you if possible.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by valleycustom

Kevin,

If you swing buy next week you can check out my table and that should give you a good idea where to start. I checked out your other threads and your work is outstanding. I would like to do a little sponging off of you if possible.

Thanks~ And yes we will do some sponging next week. I am thinking Tuesday or thursday should work for me. Wensday's are holy pool and beer night here in winters and I have only missed about 3 since I moved here.

Kevin

[hotrodhomi]

is that the bronco that you are going to make 2wd?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

is that the bronco that you are going to make 2wd?

No that one was turned into a tube chassie rock crawler for the really big rocks I have a 71 with only 58K on it that is rust free and in perfect condition and all stock that will give its life for a street rod some day.

Kevin