Skyjacker install issue.

[derotoreut]

I'm installing a 2-1/2" skyjacker spring kit on my 70 K10. I got the rear springs installed after finding out the PO did a U-bolt flip. But that's all good now. The issue that I'm having is with the fronts. The distance between one of the front spring mounts is 3-1/2". The other is about 3-1/4". The skyjacker bushing sleeves measure 3.70". There is no way I'll be able to make these fit. First of all I'm wondering about the difference in spring mounts. Secondly should I just cut down the bushing sleeves to fit? Anyone else have this issue?

[turp mcspray]

Been there with a couple of lift installs. Yep, you just need to grind them down.

[CUSTOM/10]

Just installed the exact same kit. Cut mine down with a chop saw !

Gary

[john@thepier]

Dan I have tried pushing them apart with port a power hydraulics with no success. Eventually I ground them down to the point they just fit. John

[Stocker]

Had to grind mine down a bit also. Wasn't much, only about 1/16" or so IIRC, but it was enough that they would not fit without grinding.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by john@thepier

Dan I have tried pushing them apart with port a power hydraulics with no success. Eventually I ground them down to the point they just fit. John

John, That's good to know. I have been so close to getting a port-power and attempting to push it apart a little. They make a short ram that would fit in there, but didn't know if I should try it. Sounds like everyone has had this issue. Good to know, but bad you've all experienced it. I think I'll just cut them down about 3/16" or so and hopefully that will do it!

[swamp rat]

Make sure you don't grind them down narrower than the spring width ( i know pretty obvious right?) I didn't have to deal with a 1/4" but one side of my truck was definitely tighter than the other so i improvised a bolt and washer set up to spread it apart to about 1/4" and it relaxed about 1/16 wider, Here's my post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=98

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Make sure you don't grind them down narrower than the spring width ( i know pretty obvious right?) I didn't have to deal with a 1/4" but one side of my truck was definitely tighter than the other so i improvised a bolt and washer set up to spread it apart to about 1/4" and it relaxed about 1/16 wider, Here's my post.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...0&postcount=98

That's funny because I tried the same thing. I used a bolt with 2-nuts and washers to try to spread apart the front spring mount. I wanted to use a 9/16 grade 5 or 8 bolt to do it, but the ones I found didn't have long enough threads. I ended up using a 1/2" carriage bolt. I cranked on it so hard that it stripped out the threads. May have moved it a little but not much. I have really considered the port-power route, because I could buy a set for about $100 and then I'd have it for another time, but john@thepier said he tried it with one and had no success.

[jeffahart]

Another reply to fortify.

Grind and grease sides of bushings for slide in.

[john@thepier]

Yes the problem is when you stretch it apart it just springs back. So even a big hammer wont do it. I suppose if you could get it to stretch wide enough you may get it to work and then pull the sides back together when you tighten it all up with the spring and sleeve in place. One side of mine had the factory plate welded in for a safety on the front side and I had already painted up my frame real pretty so I gave in and ground down my sleeve a little at a time till it just fit in. Yes do not make the sleeve so short that it is flush with the spring. John

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

That's funny because I tried the same thing. I used a bolt with 2-nuts and washers to try to spread apart the front spring mount. I wanted to use a 9/16 grade 5 or 8 bolt to do it, but the ones I found didn't have long enough threads. I ended up using a 1/2" carriage bolt. I cranked on it so hard that it stripped out the threads. May have moved it a little but not much. I have really considered the port-power route, because I could buy a set for about $100 and then I'd have it for another time, but john@thepier said he tried it with one and had no success.

I almost went and bought one myself, but at least with mine it was starting but even with a 2# persuader i couldn't get the spring eye in place, I don't know if being a fine thread grade 8 is what made the difference but i wouldn't do it with a grade 2 or 5. If ya buy a porta power have a measuring tape handy and keep track of how far you move it each time, try and move it about 1/16 to 1/8 more each time..

[derotoreut]

The thing about the Skyjacker springs is that they are 2-1/2" wide (I believe) the entire length of the spring. The original springs were 2-1/2" at the middle and tapered out to 3" wide at the ends. The difference in width on the Skyjacker springs is made up by the new poly bushings, so if I were to cut down the bushing sleeve to the width of the spring (2-1/2") I would for sure be in a world-of-hurt. Now with that said, I think I will trim the bushing sleeves just long enough to fit between the spring mounts. The driver side is a little tighter for some reason, but I don't think I'm going to try to expand the mount at all (with the porta-power). I'll just cut each sleeve down to the exact width to fit between the mount.

[derotoreut]

Thought I'd share some pics of how I'm doing this. I bought a Bendpak mid-rise scissor lift over Christmas. It is awesome! I then used ratchet straps to the frame, to hold up the axles. Saves the back! getting too old to crawl under these trucks any more.

[y5mgisi]

Need more info on the lift! Off to Google!

[swamp rat]

Found it in Ebay.

[john@thepier]

Be sure to put the weight of the truck back down before you tighten the spring eye bolts all the way. If you don't you can end up with uneven sides. I usually put my trucks back down with the bolts loose and then jump on the bumper or something a few times before tightening. Other times I have jacked it up and dropped it back down fast a few times before tightening it up.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by john@thepier

Be sure to put the weight of the truck back down before you tighten the spring eye bolts all the way. If you don't you can end up with uneven sides. I usually put my trucks back down with the bolts loose and then jump on the bumper or something a few times before tightening. Other times I have jacked it up and dropped it back down fast a few times before tightening it up.

Thanks for the info. I will definitely do that. Anyone have torque values for spring eye bolts and U-bolts. I believe U-bolts were around 120 ft-lbs. if not I could prob find in my service manual.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

I think I will trim the bushing sleeves just long enough to fit between the spring mounts. I don't think I'm going to try to expand the mount at all (with the porta-power). I'll just cut each sleeve down to the exact width to fit between the mount.

Exactly, don't spread mounts. Just Grind end of sleeve to fit. Then I greased the sides of my bushing and pounded in with mallet because fit was tight.

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Need more info on the lift! Off to Google!

I did some research and decided to go with BendPak. I looked at others including Atlas and off-brands. I purchased the MD-6XP mid-rise through Northern Tool. At the time they were $30 more then Summit or others but they had a $100 gift card offer at the time. Plus they do price matching plus 10%, so it was a no brainer. I got this type of lift because I only have 10' ceilings in my pole barn. In Hind sight I should have built the barn with taller ceilings, but that's water under the bridge at this point. Either way I love this lift and it's very sturdy. It looks like it could be wobbly but it's not. I would highly recommend you research and do NOT go cheap.

[derotoreut]

OK guys because the driver side spring mount was a bit more narrow than the pass side, and as anal as I am, I decided to get a hydraulic port-power and tweak it a little. I used a 10 ton short ram and installed a steel block and spacers to get the thickness needed. I was able to press it open to the same distance as the pass side (3-1/2"). I still needed to fit the bushing sleeves into the spring mounts, so I ground them both down a little. This way they fit nice and snug. After paint touch up, I will be putting the front springs in soon. Thought you just might like to see what I did.

[derotoreut]

OK I need more help! My springs are installed. No shocks yet. I have an issue now with my flex brake hoses going to the drums. They are definitely too short. The driver side is not as bad, but prob needs a longer hose. It has a banjo type fitting at the wheel that gives the flex hose a little more length. The pass side does not have this fitting. What have you guys used for brake hoses (1/4" OD line)? Is that angled banjo style fitting available?

First 2-pics are driver side. 3rd & 4th pics are pass side, which is definitely too short.

[jeffahart]

The way I remember, I could not get a hose with that fitting in an extended length. I did not want to re-route the lines and drill frame. So, I just used another rubber flex brake line as an extension. Works fine. It's dark or I would take a pic. If you still want pic tomorrow let me know. And I'm leaving it that way until I convert to disc axle! Ugly works.

[swamp rat]

I don't have drums so don't know if i can help, i was able to locate longer Disk brake hoses thru ORD, there hoses even have a DOT approved printing on them. Be sure that not only are the wheels fully off the ground but also check when the wheels are turned to both sides too.

Glad to see you got the mounts situated ok!

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I don't have drums so don't know if i can help, i was able to locate longer Disk brake hoses thru ORD, there hoses even have a DOT approved printing on them. Be sure that not only are the wheels fully off the ground but also check when the wheels are turned to both sides too.

Glad to see you got the mounts situated ok!

Thanks for the info. I looked at ORD's website, but couldn't find anything for my year with drums. I may have to call them. I'm puzzled about the difference from one wheel to other though. Only the one has what looks like a 45-deg fitting. I guess I'll try my local NAPA and see if they can help.

[swamp rat]

Yea if you can give them the thread diameter and pitch i'll bet they (ORD) can probably help.

NAPA depending on the guy behind the counter.. they don't usually have lengths listed with the part numbers so you pretty much ether have to try and match something up that they have on the shelf or have an actual part number.