Going Tubular - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LUV2XCLR8 · 02-21-2008, 06:41 AM

Is it worth it to go tubular? I am considering CPP stuff for my
newly aquired frame, but I am NOT going to go with Air Ride.
Does it make any sense other than it has that

factor?

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6372TRSK.htm

1LoC10 · 02-21-2008, 08:47 AM

i would get just the CPP arms... then get the tubular cross member from Airride... and do the KP notch.... 2 inch lowering blocks... 6 inch lowering springs.. and a watts link

*Shane* · 02-21-2008, 09:42 AM

I think all of it is awful purty, but almost a waste of cash ... it's a round version of the OEM stock square version. Performance wise you don't really really gain anything. Since you're planning on a static drop, i would go with the bolt in notch, drop springs, shock relocators, and adjustable trac bar ... no real need for a watt's link with a static drop.

good luck.

LUV2XCLR8 · 02-22-2008, 03:49 AM

K, I have most of what Shane mentioned, it will need trailing arms based on
the pic's I got of the frame, so just arms and arm crossmember should do?

MotorHead Lon · 02-22-2008, 04:10 AM

Check out the new Truck Builder mag. There is an artice on Blue Moon Motorsports tubular control arms. They are supposed to be for coil springs and offer an additional 1.5" drop. The web site is bluemooncars.com

I went with tubular because my truck is bagged and I hate to see the wheels way off camber when aired out. Like a certain 2002 Suburban in my town that has 22" wheels that nearly fold into the wheel wells when aired out.

gringoloco · 02-22-2008, 06:31 AM

They perform exactly like stock, just cost a lot more. Unless you really like the tubular look, I would just powdercoat a set of stockers and save the extra $500 for something more useful. JMHO.

GQ going 2-wheel?

EDIT: I would also go with ECE's crossmember if you're looking at doing that. It has more exhaust and driveshaft clearance as well as bolt-on brackets, should you decide to change your front trailing arm mounting angle.

LUV2XCLR8 · 02-22-2008, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gringoloco

GQ going 2-wheel?

Yes,

I think the OE ones are junk, have not seen it
in person yet, just pictures from the owner

02-21-2008, 06:41 AM	#1
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,482	Going Tubular Is it worth it to go tubular? I am considering CPP stuff for my newly aquired frame, but I am NOT going to go with Air Ride. Does it make any sense other than it has that factor? http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6372TRSK.htm __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

02-21-2008, 08:47 AM	#2
1LoC10 Insert Title Here Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Dyer, Indiana Posts: 5,679	Re: Going Tubular i would get just the CPP arms... then get the tubular cross member from Airride... and do the KP notch.... 2 inch lowering blocks... 6 inch lowering springs.. and a watts link __________________ BOBBY _69 SWB_ 1000 pics of 67-72's>> http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z...-72/?start=all << Last edited by 1LoC10; 02-21-2008 at 08:47 AM.

02-21-2008, 09:42 AM	#3
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: Going Tubular I think all of it is awful purty, but almost a waste of cash ... it's a round version of the OEM stock square version. Performance wise you don't really really gain anything. Since you're planning on a static drop, i would go with the bolt in notch, drop springs, shock relocators, and adjustable trac bar ... no real need for a watt's link with a static drop. good luck. Last edited by Shane; 02-21-2008 at 09:44 AM.

02-22-2008, 03:49 AM	#4
LUV2XCLR8 The LuvShack Garage Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side) Posts: 30,482	Re: Going Tubular K, I have most of what Shane mentioned, it will need trailing arms based on the pic's I got of the frame, so just arms and arm crossmember should do? __________________ Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T

02-22-2008, 04:10 AM	#5
MotorHead Lon Registered User Join Date: May 2007 Location: Alabama Posts: 241	Re: Going Tubular Check out the new Truck Builder mag. There is an artice on Blue Moon Motorsports tubular control arms. They are supposed to be for coil springs and offer an additional 1.5" drop. The web site is bluemooncars.com I went with tubular because my truck is bagged and I hate to see the wheels way off camber when aired out. Like a certain 2002 Suburban in my town that has 22" wheels that nearly fold into the wheel wells when aired out. __________________ 88 Chevy C1500, step side, LS swap. 98 Crew Cab Dually, tow rig. 03 Dodge Neon. ECTA Ohio Mile record holder. Last edited by MotorHead Lon; 02-22-2008 at 04:15 AM. Reason: Add web address

02-22-2008, 06:31 AM	#6
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: Going Tubular They perform exactly like stock, just cost a lot more. Unless you really like the tubular look, I would just powdercoat a set of stockers and save the extra $500 for something more useful. JMHO. GQ going 2-wheel? EDIT: I would also go with ECE's crossmember if you're looking at doing that. It has more exhaust and driveshaft clearance as well as bolt-on brackets, should you decide to change your front trailing arm mounting angle. __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 02-22-2008 at 06:35 AM.



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