1962 Chevy C20

[Apollo 62C20]

Hey folks-
I have been lurking/learning here for a while while my wife and I searched for a truck and we have finally scored. I have taken a lot of pictures since I bought it a couple of weeks ago and I will post them here as I get the chance.

I first saw this truck 2 years ago when we bought our house. It was sitting in a back yard near the house with it's sister truck (a dismantled 64 step-side) looking quite in need of attention. After 3 notes left with the owners wife and about a years time, the owner called and said he was ready to sell. He and the previous owner (owner#1) were lifelong friends and both worked at Cape Kennedy on the Apollo 6 and 11 projects. I am a life long space nut and scientist so this was a MAJOR BONUS for me. I limped it home (1 block) and set to work.

My main goal is to keep it on the road for a few more years when I will hopefully have enough money to start a full restoration. Until then I will drive it and try to fix it up a little at a time.

Enjoy!

Here is how it sat when I found it. Or it found me....

[Sillyoldman]

Looks like a solid truck.

[Apollo 62C20]

Initial evaluation:

235 w/ rochester 1bbl
4 speed w/ granny gear (maybe a saginaw?)

So dirty, stinky

Brakes shot!

Rust isn't everywhere but its pretty bad in the rocker sills, posts, door bottoms, hood (around lights) and especially the INSIDE ceiling.

Major oil leak(s)

Syncros in 3 & 4 shot (double clutching helps the grinding)

Electrical system seems to be partially working (at times)

Battery shot-

Tires dry rotted

EVERYTHING MUST BE LUBRICATED!!!

Glass good- a little frosted on edges and small chip in windshield

no smoke form engine, feels strong, no knocks, carb is just one big flat spot...

steering feels solid with v. little play (update: found service records for new ball joints, tie rods etc in 86')

Owners manual plus registration from WAY back

Radio turned on once but no sound...

glove box destroyed

seat needs work

6" of pine needles in bed, some pieces of wood unbolted...but looks usable

no seat belts

antenna broken

DS headlight cover missing



Pictures:
Cleaning Day pictures....the window had been left partially down so the inside was weeeetttt.

[Apollo 62C20]

Rust shots

I am hoping that this can all be repaired at some point.

The PO told me that there had been a cab fire at some point (pre1990's) and thats when it had been repainted. I'm guessing that is the reason the cab seems to have way more rust? Maybe a bed or cab swap too.

I am most worried about the holes through the inside ceiling and door jambs under the windows. If you have repaired these before with success let me know...

[jonzcustomshop]

looks great in the photos!
however, those last few make me cringe....
It looks to be bondo/paint over old rust...
that is not good, bondo does not stop rust, just covers it for a while, and in most cases I think makes it worse...
I have a feeling that if you blasted this cab thay you would end up just looking for a new one...
I hate to tell you that, but that is muy opinion...
another thing about the rust...
in the 60's they did not treat the metal before assembly, the only treatment it got was the paint on the outside surfaces...so all these trucks-even the "rust free" ones are rusting from the inside out.
when you see bubbles coming through the outside of the roof rear door jamb, the inside is going to be way worse... like the tip of an iceberg is what you are seeing.

what i would do:
looks like a decent truck, drive it enjoy it, be on the look out for a decent cab and doors, when you find some, do some swapping.

[DPowers]

Welcome to the forum- looks like a decent start.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Apollo 62C20

4 speed w/ granny gear (maybe a saginaw?)

Syncros in 3 & 4 shot (double clutching helps the grinding)

The transmission is a SM420. There are a lot of these around and they don't bring very high prices. I sold a perfectly usable one for $100 (replaced it with a 5 speed). You can find them even cheaper than that.

Ray

[irish1966]

Love the colour. Pity about the rust. Get her running good, work on some stuff while u go and then u will be waaayyyyy more prepared for a restore. I did it the frame off to start off and the rust is alot more work than I expected, and my truck only really had a bad rusted floor. I ended up scrapping the cab, buying a not-so-bad one and I still have a ton of patching to do. In the mean time I have bought 2 more trucks each with their own little issues, but when u drive em and realize the work they need, you will more appreciate what u want from them. Be it, a daily driver, or a show truck. That being said, I am completely hooked on these old trucks.

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

Too bad that you have that much rust to deal with. It is all repairable if you have the ambition to tackle a project that big. Pretty much all the repair panels you need are available. The rust in the top of the cab is probably the most difficult to repair. I have to agree that if you can find a better cab, that might be a better option. In the mean time try and clean out behind all the areas where there is rust appearing. There are plastic plugs in the ends of the rocker panels that will allow access to the inside of them. high pressure water works good for that as well as other areas. Cleaning those areas out will slow the rust progression a little.

[fryer1979]

Welcome to the site, and congrats on your new project.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Welcome to the forum.
I'm guessing the headliner rust is caused by rust through on the roof /drip rails. Have you checked them yet?

[CJ Loeffelholz]

It looks like a great project with an interesting history that's meaningful to you personally. You can't beat that.

I couldn't agree more with what JonZ wrote. I'd get it running and enjoy it for a while. Then, as time permits, accumulate parts; especially a cab. You can get your new cab all ready - you could even paint it (after test fitting the doors) and swap it out later, thereby keeping your time without use of the truck to a minimum.

The huge advantage to taking your time getting part is that it will save you a lot of money. If you can just wait for a good near at a nearby location, you'll be a lot better off financially.

Welcome to the forum. I wish you all the best on your project.

[Apollo 62C20]

Thanks for the insight. I haven't had that much experience with the rust repair and from what it sounds like it may be too big of a job for me (especially now). The idea of waiting for another cab sounds pretty good. I'm in no hurry as I am mainly focusing on the mechanics now. I have done quite a bit including brakes and will post some pics soon.

I have to say that this was a well built machine. Most of the repairs I have done haven't been repairs as much as long overdue maintenance i.e. lubricate, adjust....

My Dad and I are going to pull the motor this week and install quite a few new gaskets. I bought the FELPRO full set online for ~$65 which was near the cost of just a few of them locally. Part #FEL FS7619B3 The set came with a rope gasket (pretty cool...my first) and a rubber. I think that the rope is for earlier blocks but I will see when it comes out.

I took this pic of the interior after a clean up...great cockpit design. The other 2 are the motor which seems to be running strong but leaking a bit everywhere. It smokes a VERY LITTLE bit out of the breather cap...in other motors i would assume this was blow by from the rings but pops said it could be the valve stem seals on this type. The gasket set came with o-ring type valve stem seals but I would like to find the "umbrella style" to put on it. Ant idea if these are available for this motor? Anyways...off to pick up an engine hoist from a buddy. Thanks for all the input...

[Apollo 62C20]

Light Switch rebuild

These switches are't too expensive to replace (about $30) but many times they are malfunctioning just due to corrosion of the contacts and the replacements switches can be of lesser quality. Symptoms include flickering dash lights, dim or non-working dome light etc. Here are a few pictures...I will try to describe the process as best as I can.

The first step is removing the switch from the dash. Sounds easy but you have to know the "trick" to remove the pull handle. Simply push in the little pin with the spring around it (bottom of switch in first pic) . This will unlock the knob so you can remove it and get to the nut that holds the switch to the dash.

Next disconnect wiring connector from the switch and remove from dash.

Pry the hold tabs out on the metal switch casing (top piece in parts picture). and disassemble the switch. Be gentle as older metal can get brittle and pay attention how the pieces come apart (should be pretty straight ahead) so you can get it back together.

Clean all of your parts, avoiding harsh cleaners like brake/carb cleaner as these will damage the plastic. Water and soap will work fine.

Use a very fine sand paper to remove corrosion from all of the coper connectors. Very carefully do the same for the coiled wire (close up pic) on the front of the switch...this is the variable resistor that dims the dash.

Lube the contacts with a di-electric grease (I avoid WD-40 because I have heard it attracts dirt) and reassemble switch...Re-install and you are good to go!

Now your light switch will feel good and operate like it was supposed to. Keep in mind that not all switches will be repairable. If the contacts are torn, burnt or any plastic is cracked or broken I would just spend the cash...

Help this helps some beginners out there...DG

[CJ Loeffelholz]

Edited by staff
Let's try to remember that this is a "family friendly" forum. We have teens as members as well as ladies.

[Apollo 62C20]

Too funny...