Looking For A Radiator

[KyleSeal]

Well my stock 4 row developed a leak. Actually a couple of them. So I'm either going to get it fixed or get a new one,

how much is it for places to fix pinholes on a radiator?

If that isnt the way I go and decide to get a new one, who sells a brass/copper radiator (4 row) inexpensivley? I see them on ClassicParts and Brothers for like 500. Holy crap. Thats insane. I dont want an aluminum. I'd rather have stock style.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Well my stock 4 row developed a leak. Actually a couple of them. So I'm either going to get it fixed or get a new one,

how much is it for places to fix pinholes on a radiator?

If that isnt the way I go and decide to get a new one, who sells a brass/copper radiator (4 row) inexpensivley? I see them on ClassicParts and Brothers for like 500. Holy crap. Thats insane. I dont want an aluminum. I'd rather have stock style.

If you have a good repair shop close I would see about getting it fixed. I have had 3 or 4 of them repaired and have had good luck with them. The last one I had done was $65. I removed it and took it to him.

LockDoc

[BCOWANWHEELS]

Rockauto

[Ironangel]

If your handy with a propane or butane torch you can make most repairs at home. Acid flux and 60/40 lead/tin solder and your in business. You can google "radiator repair pics" and get some ideas on how to approach a repair. I like the little refillable butane torches for pin pointing the heat. I use it soldering and for heat shrink tubing. If your leak is visible like a crack or split in a crossover, use a toothbrush sized wire brush to clean the paint and shine the copper. Smear some acid flux on the crack, use a pair of needle nosed pliers to close the crack. Now your ready to apply the heat, a dab or two of solder and your done. "Nothing fancy"

[BlueBullet]

I just purchased a 4 core for mine. The manufacturer is called Northern. They are made in Willmar Minnesota. Our diesel mechanic has an account with them. $315 I had to modify the rubber inserts.

[racerop]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

If your handy with a propane or butane torch you can make most repairs at home. Acid flux and 60/40 lead/tin solder and your in business. You can google "radiator repair pics" and get some ideas on how to approach a repair. I like the little refillable butane torches for pin pointing the heat. I use it soldering and for heat shrink tubing. If your leak is visible like a crack or split in a crossover, use a toothbrush sized wire brush to clean the paint and shine the copper. Smear some acid flux on the crack, use a pair of needle nosed pliers to close the crack. Now your ready to apply the heat, a dab or two of solder and your done. "Nothing fancy"

Do it like ironangel says. Too many people that work on theses trucks are swapping out parts and not learning what our fathers taught us. Repair , before replace.

[gmc 2500 4x4]

i have a harrison 4core for a 4speed truck, i cant decifer the metal tag. didnt leak but to restore it they wanted like 500.00! (recore)

[74baggedbug]

I got mine from Oreilly auto parts for around a couple of hundred bucks, lifetime warranty and metal not plastic

[KyleSeal]

Originally Posted by 74baggedbug

I got mine from Oreilly auto parts for around a couple of hundred bucks, lifetime warranty and metal not plastic

I'm interested - how did it fit? Was it a stock style or was it a generic aluminum radiator? I'd like mine to look very stock.

[weq92f]

I've had them repaired in the past. It's usually a fair ( cheap ) price and in my experience, worth the wait for the savings. If you immediately pull it and take it to a shop, your turnaround time will approach the same as ordering new online. Plus you'll save bookoo buck!

-klb

[Ram-Man]

Rock auto you can get a direct fit 4 row for about $130 and fits like the original.

[1968aj]

You can patch up a 40 something year radiator and may luck out. Or you could have to pull it again annd again fixing leaks. I would get a new one.

[In The Ten Ring]

I bought a brass and copper 4 row radiator from Rock Auto last year. I haven't used it as it sits up too high but I am going to hang onto it. It was on closeout and priced cheap, let me try and find the link.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/vis...,radiator,2172

I am hanging onto my original radiator and later on I am getting it recored. I ground out the rivets holding my 4-row lower radiator brackets to the core support, I did that so I could use machine screws to bolt the brackets back in. That way I could replace those with the smaller brackets and put my recored radiator back in if I so decided.

[Shinysideup]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I bought a brass and copper 4 row radiator from Rock Auto last year. I haven't used it as it sits up too high but I am going to hang onto it. It was on closeout and priced cheap, let me try and find the link.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/vis...,radiator,2172

I am hanging onto my original radiator and later on I am getting it recored. I ground out the rivets holding my 4-row lower radiator brackets to the core support, I did that so I could use machine screws to bolt the brackets back in. That way I could replace those with the smaller brackets and put my recored radiator back in if I so decided.

I thought this was a direct replacement unit? What is the problem exactly with it?

[my56chevytruck]

I bought mine from Auto City Classics and switched from a 4 core to a 2 core. Check them out..

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by Shinysideup

I thought this was a direct replacement unit? What is the problem exactly with it?

I think it will sit up too high: the top of the radiator is so high that the upper retainer brackets are at such an angle as to look wrong. I'd have to shim them on the core support side.

Now in my case, one of the lower retainer brackets had been smashed in, making that side a 3 row radiator bracket. That kept it from fitting and made it sit up even higher. I have since rectified that but not before I bought an all aluminum 3 row radiator.

Originally, my truck had a 1 or 2 row radiator that didn't sit on lower brackets at all! It sat on a piece of long, thin rubber placed on that lower shelf of the core support.

I haven't reassembled my front end yet, I could still put in that (all copper and brass) radiator if I wanted to. I don't need that much cooling with just a 250 I6 though.

[leftybass209]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I think it will sit up too high: the top of the radiator is so high that the upper retainer brackets are at such an angle as to look wrong. I'd have to shim them on the core support side.

Now in my case, one of the lower retainer brackets had been smashed in, making that side a 3 row radiator bracket. That kept it from fitting and made it sit up even higher. I have since rectified that but not before I bought an all aluminum 3 row radiator.

Originally, my truck had a 1 or 2 row radiator that didn't sit on lower brackets at all! It sat on a piece of long, thin rubber placed on that lower shelf of the core support.

I haven't reassembled my front end yet, I could still put in that (all copper and brass) radiator if I wanted to. I don't need that much cooling with just a 250 I6 though.

Yep. Those parts store copper 4 rows look the part, but don't exactly fit the part. I had to return mine for the same fitment issues. I went with a Champion/American Eagle 2 row radiator with verified 1" rows. Engine won't even attempt to get hot in 100+ degree weather even at idle, with a stock mechanical fan w/ clutch.

[leftybass209]

Forgot to mention. Mathematically, a 2 row radiator with 1" or larger tubes should cool more efficiently than a 3 or 4 row radiator with smaller diameter tubes. Now, I've seen plenty of small tube 3 or 4 rows cool engines just fine depending on climate and use, so take it FWIW.

[ho70]

JohnR has one for sale in parts-I was gonna buy it but exchange rate kills me

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=739222

[1SG.Rob]

I just discovered my radiator is leaking also. Already removed and am now trying to decide if I want to fix it or just get a replacement. There's a reputable radiator guy here in town and my gut says take it to him. However, does anyone have any experience with the ones that Wes offers on his site? $389 for an OEM replacement is within my price range.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 1SG.Rob

I just discovered my radiator is leaking also. Already removed and am now trying to decide if I want to fix it or just get a replacement. There's a reputable radiator guy here in town and my gut says take it to him. However, does anyone have any experience with the ones that Wes offers on his site? $389 for an OEM replacement is within my price range.

Hey 1SG Rob. I have had Allen's Radiator repair or rebuild several radiators and the heater core for my 51 GMC and all of them have worked great. They are semi local to you in downtown Portland just off the 405. They have always been honest about if it is worth fixing or getting a new one.

[1SG.Rob]

Originally Posted by HO455

Hey 1SG Rob. I have had Allen's Radiator repair or rebuild several radiators and the heater core for my 51 GMC and all of them have worked great. They are semi local to you in downtown Portland just off the 405. They have always been honest about if it is worth fixing or getting a new one.

Awesome, thanks for the tip!

[CastIron]

I've been looking at radiators as well. I have the original 2 row and have been thinking about getting something that would cool a little better, I've got a question for you guys that have switched over to 4 row radiators. It looks like I'd need different upper mounts and to move the lower, but is the shroud the same or would I have to find a different one?

[toolboxchev]

Imho, do not scrap out your old brass and copper radiators. The tanks on the sides are what is valuable. I had a local guy rebuild mine with a heavy duty forklift core for a decent price.

Cools like a dream! I would not use a aluminum unit on these old trucks unless its a show piece. You cannot clean the insides of them with the radiator flushs on the market today. EPA had made most radiator flushs reduce the harmful environmental chemical to using Sodium Citrate as the main ingredient.

In the days when these vehicles where developed we used a chemical called Oxalic Acid which is harmless to brass, copper, and cast iron. It eats red oxide, which is rust!

[leftybass209]

Originally Posted by CastIron

I've been looking at radiators as well. I have the original 2 row and have been thinking about getting something that would cool a little better, I've got a question for you guys that have switched over to 4 row radiators. It looks like I'd need different upper mounts and to move the lower, but is the shroud the same or would I have to find a different one?

Shroud is the same. The only difference in shrouds is between I6, sbc, and bbc.