Engine Removal - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LuckyHenriksen · 11-21-2008, 05:57 PM

I have pulled several motors, but always with the trans. attached. What is the proper method for pulling the motor leaving the transmission in the truck? It is a TH400. Thanks

Psycho71 · 11-21-2008, 06:41 PM

Unbolt the flywheel from the torque conveter, disconnect the kickdown linkage from the carb, take the bell housing bolts out, support the front of the tranny (with a jack, or 2x4 from one side of the frame to the other if possible), get the weight of the motor off the mounts slightly, pull the motor forward til she's free of the tranny, then hoist her on outta there.

Getting it out will be the easy part. It's when you try to stab it back in that can be kinda fun sometimes. Then again, sometimes they just fall right back into place. But that's always someone else's, not mine.

jhow66 · 11-21-2008, 07:05 PM

To make it easier going back in, cut the head off a couple of bolts (rounds off ends) and screw them into top of block to use as guides for trans.

Painter D · 11-21-2008, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhow66

To make it easier going back in, cut the head off a couple of bolts (rounds off ends) and screw them into top of block to use as guides for trans.

HMMM
I've never heard that one before, sounds like it would work well.

piecesparts · 11-21-2008, 07:29 PM

I have made a flat bar with two bolts that feed through it (nuts welded onto the bar, where the holes are drilled in it) to allow for two pieces of relatively long 3/8" redi-bolt to be threaded through. These bolts go up against the tranny oil pan flange and help hold the tranny in place, when the bar is C-clamped to the truck frame. This way I can lift or lower the tranny as needed, adjust from one side to the other and align the tranny with the engines dowel pins as I lift it out and set it back into the engine bay. I have double-nutted nuts to the redi-bolt, on the outer end to allow for turning with a wrench. This bracket allows the truck to move around, be jacked up, or lowered down without a stupid chain or an ill positioned floor jack sitting underneath the truck. I have one that fits all of my trucks. This does not dent the tranny pan either.

AustinScott · 11-21-2008, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piecesparts

I have made a flat bar with two bolts that feed through it (nuts welded onto the bar, where the holes are drilled in it) to allow for two pieces of relatively long 3/8" redi-bolt to be threaded through.

Got any pictures of this creation you would like to share?

LuckyHenriksen · 11-21-2008, 07:50 PM

Is it just as easy to pull the trans at the same time?

Yes please, pics of that thing would be great

LuckyHenriksen · 11-21-2008, 08:05 PM

And if I do leave the trans in, as I pull it out will fluid spill out of anywhere?

Longhorn Man · 11-21-2008, 08:40 PM

I find it easier to pull the engine alone personally.
No, you won't lose any tranny fluid unless you pull the converter out of the tranny.

LuckyHenriksen · 11-21-2008, 08:43 PM

OK ill give it a shot, thanks for your advice!

jkaylor68gmc · 11-21-2008, 09:31 PM

yep

piecesparts · 11-21-2008, 10:11 PM

Try these pics for the tranny support. I have a longer bar that I use for my later model truck since it's frame is different than the older ones. Believe it or not the bar is more than strong enough to support the tranny front end and there is no leakage from the whole process. You can leave the driveline in and the rea tranny mount undisturbed. I went to my local metal supplier and purchased the bar, drilled two holes welded the nuts to both sides of the bar for support and use small C-clamps to hold it to the frame.

LuckyHenriksen · 11-21-2008, 10:21 PM

Wow thats creative. Good idea!

11-21-2008, 05:57 PM	#1
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Engine Removal I have pulled several motors, but always with the trans. attached. What is the proper method for pulling the motor leaving the transmission in the truck? It is a TH400. Thanks __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

11-21-2008, 06:41 PM	#2
Psycho71 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kaufman, Tx Posts: 827	Re: Engine Removal Unbolt the flywheel from the torque conveter, disconnect the kickdown linkage from the carb, take the bell housing bolts out, support the front of the tranny (with a jack, or 2x4 from one side of the frame to the other if possible), get the weight of the motor off the mounts slightly, pull the motor forward til she's free of the tranny, then hoist her on outta there. Getting it out will be the easy part. It's when you try to stab it back in that can be kinda fun sometimes. Then again, sometimes they just fall right back into place. But that's always someone else's, not mine. __________________ You only need two tools in life - WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape. If a hammer doesn't fix it, you have an electrical problem! Slot Cars, 1:24 Scale, 100MPH@100,000RPM, fastest things on wheels!

11-21-2008, 07:05 PM	#3
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Re: Engine Removal To make it easier going back in, cut the head off a couple of bolts (rounds off ends) and screw them into top of block to use as guides for trans. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

11-21-2008, 07:29 PM	#5
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Engine Removal I have made a flat bar with two bolts that feed through it (nuts welded onto the bar, where the holes are drilled in it) to allow for two pieces of relatively long 3/8" redi-bolt to be threaded through. These bolts go up against the tranny oil pan flange and help hold the tranny in place, when the bar is C-clamped to the truck frame. This way I can lift or lower the tranny as needed, adjust from one side to the other and align the tranny with the engines dowel pins as I lift it out and set it back into the engine bay. I have double-nutted nuts to the redi-bolt, on the outer end to allow for turning with a wrench. This bracket allows the truck to move around, be jacked up, or lowered down without a stupid chain or an ill positioned floor jack sitting underneath the truck. I have one that fits all of my trucks. This does not dent the tranny pan either.

11-21-2008, 07:50 PM	#7
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Engine Removal Is it just as easy to pull the trans at the same time? Yes please, pics of that thing would be great __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

11-21-2008, 08:05 PM	#8
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Engine Removal And if I do leave the trans in, as I pull it out will fluid spill out of anywhere? __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

11-21-2008, 08:40 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Engine Removal I find it easier to pull the engine alone personally. No, you won't lose any tranny fluid unless you pull the converter out of the tranny.

11-21-2008, 08:43 PM	#10
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Engine Removal OK ill give it a shot, thanks for your advice! __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

11-21-2008, 09:31 PM	#11
jkaylor68gmc Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: TN Posts: 2,448	Re: Engine Removal yep __________________ 1947 International KB-1 1957 Chevy Bel-Air riding low 1962 swb fleetside 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 7-inch lift on 35 Daily driver 2016 Chevy Tahoe Better halves ride

11-21-2008, 10:11 PM	#12
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Engine Removal Try these pics for the tranny support. I have a longer bar that I use for my later model truck since it's frame is different than the older ones. Believe it or not the bar is more than strong enough to support the tranny front end and there is no leakage from the whole process. You can leave the driveline in and the rea tranny mount undisturbed. I went to my local metal supplier and purchased the bar, drilled two holes welded the nuts to both sides of the bar for support and use small C-clamps to hold it to the frame. Attached Images Last edited by piecesparts; 11-21-2008 at 10:14 PM.

11-21-2008, 10:21 PM	#13
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Engine Removal Wow thats creative. Good idea! __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here



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