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Old 06-27-2013, 04:18 PM   #1
Thefojizzle@me.com
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New to the group!! Thanks for accepting me!

Hey guys! Just bought my first C10 the other day. It's a '65. Same owner for 29 years. Came with the original temporary registration from the dealer here in Southern California! Even came with the protecto plate. Here's what "Betty" has
45k miles on a new 350 crate.
Rebuilt 700r.
Power assisted front disk brakes.
Power steering. Dakota digital gauges. B & M Ratcheting floor shifter.

She doesn't drip an ounce of fluid. Running a little hot but po removed the radiator shroud and didn't replace. My radiator guy said the shroud should solve my problem. Bought one and will install next few days. I removed the old carpet and that revealed a few rust spots on the floor board where it bends found up to the fire wall. I don't know if I should replace the whole floor or just patch since the holes are small? So, here's what I'd like to do to her, and please ANY input would be greatly appreciated since I am very new to this!

Patch holes in floor, swap out the B & M shifter for a "nostalgic Lokar floor shifter", redo the bench seat in original style, swap out the dakota digital for original gauge cluster, drop her in front with 2-1/2" spindles and 4" in back with coils/springs, replace wood in bed, move gas tank to back, install vintage air, an get some smoothie rims. If anyone has parts for sale or would want any of the items I'm swapping out pm me and we can work out a deal. Also, any suggestions as what would work or what wouldn't would be awesome! Thanks! Btw she is gonna be my daily driver. Let me know if these swaps are pretty easily done or if I'm just dreaming!! I'm not afraid of workin hard one her but I just need direction as to how to go about some of this. Looks like this forum is the place to learn!
Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:20 PM   #2
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Re: New to the group!! Thanks for accepting me!

Beautiful truck! Welcome to the forum. You can spend a lot of time here if you're not careful!
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:25 PM   #3
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Nice looking truck! I think you are on the right track.

Only comment: 2 1/2" spindles with 4" rear drop should level the truck out pretty good. Only thing is that it will look like a reverse rake (front end higher than back). At least mine did. I went with 2 1/2" spindles with 1" drop spring up front and 4" drop in back. Sight rake with no geomerty issues with the font drop.

Keep us posted....
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:04 PM   #4
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Need more pictures, that`s just a teaser! Welcome new guy.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:16 PM   #5
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Beautiful truck! Welcome to the forum. You can spend a lot of time here if you're not careful!
Dont i know it and welcome
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:39 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the kind words guys! And thank you for the heads up on the reverse rake! I don't want that at all. At least now ill just order the parts you said and know that it'll work. I tried posting more pics but on vacation up in the sierras and spotty reception won't let me! I'm gonna try hard on this little beauty. I've never really worked on cars, never welded, and don't know what I'm doing but I drool every time on of these trucks go by! So, thought if give it a go. Selling my 2004 mint condition silverado with only 74k miles on it to fund this purchase and my wife thinks I'm crazy!!!! I know u guys can help though. Found this forum at home before I left and I've spent every minute of down time on this vacation reading posts on here and I'm hooked and learning A LOT! Thanks again. Ill try and post more pics soon! Again, any advise on what you see please let me know.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:43 PM   #7
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:53 PM   #8
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@Newbie351
Can u post a pic of ur ride on here so I can check out ur stance please? Thanks. I looked at the static drop thread but it seems like a lot of the drops looked the same but when people posted the stats on how they dropped a lot of them were different, even for the same year/model truck. It
Just confused me even more! Lol! It would be nice to look at what someone has done with the same idea/truck I have to know what to buy. Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #9
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Guys,
How easy of a swap would it be to remove those dakota gauges and put in original ones? And can I weld in new floors with that has tank being in there? Sounds like a stupid question but I'm allergic to pain and dismemberment!
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:18 PM   #10
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you can weld in patch panels on the floor with the tank in. but you might want to remove your seat and carpet. LOL. there is a wiring diagram in the faq section that should help with the gauge swap--not to hard.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:19 PM   #11
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Awesome! Thanks
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:20 PM   #12
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Nice looking truck! This is a very good forum of people and you will find lots of help. I see you have the same ugly wheels my truck has. I guess these were real popular in the late 70's and early 80's. They look good on jeeps but that's my opinion

You have a good drivetrain with the 700r4. I don't think you are crazy for selling your 04'. The 65 is a much better truck! I have an 02 Camaro SS for a daily driver and I am working every free moment I have to get my 64' roadworthy. Even though it will have no radio, no power brakes or steering and no A/C LOL.


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Old 06-27-2013, 07:30 PM   #13
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Welcome.

Great looking C10. I like the sliding rear window. Been thinking of doing that to mine. Just not sure yet.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:24 PM   #14
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Thanks for the advise on the 04. We don't need a/c!!! That's what windows are for!! I'm not a fan of cold so I gotta just make sure the heater works before winter, even though socal isn't really that cold. I'm a tropics guy. ��
The nice thing about these trucks is that parts are plentiful. I live right by the truck shop in orange and I can rebuild
This thing from the ground up practically! Do you guys think I can put my shifter back on the original column I have? Would that be hard?
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:59 PM   #15
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Welcome New Guy. NICE looking rig.

It's not my truck but if it was I would NEVR put a column shift in it if I had the choice of a floor shift, but that's just me.

If you decide you are going to replace those Dakota Digitals with an original cluster I think that would be a step in the right direction. These old trucks were never meant to be digital.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #16
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Nice truck. I love me the long beds!
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:50 PM   #17
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Thanks for the compliments! I agree on the gauges. I just thought a column shift would give me more open floor space, but I think I'm swapping mine for a Lokar nostalgic double bend floor shifter, if that's an easy swap. Then ill just Craigslist my B & M one. It's brand new
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:29 AM   #18
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Welcome to the forum

Sounds like you have a good plan and a nice truck to work with. I would definitely just patch the small holes in your floor. If you have never welded, you might check with your local college and see if they have a night/weekend course on welding.

If you want a column shift, that will free up some floor space. Is the column you have is a factory auto trans column? If not, you can retrofit a later model auto column. The '67-'72's look pretty good. Also a column out of a full sized van or mini Motorhome will work well, if you decide to go to the work of switching columns, you might as well go with a tilt also.

Sending you a PM on the dash.
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:51 AM   #19
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Thanks Captainfab! I think I might just switch to the Lokar floor shifter after doing some research today. Kind of a cool look and a LoT less work. I will probably just patch those holes as you recommended. The guy at "the truck shop" saw it and recommended that, but I thought I'd ask the pros here what they thought. My buddies weld but I also wanted to know if it was safe to cut/grind/weld inside that cab with the gas tank being in there. Don't want my buddies getting fried over a truck floor! Thanks for the encouragement and I pm'd you about the gauges as well.
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Old 06-28-2013, 01:59 AM   #20
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A little safety tip on welding the floor with the gas tank close by. What I do is wrap a wet towel or rag around the filler cap/neck. This will slow down any fumes that come out of that area, as well as quench any sparks that may find their way to that area. I would also check that there are not any other areas for gas vapors to escape, such as the sending unit.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:05 AM   #21
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Thanks!
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Old 06-28-2013, 11:38 AM   #22
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@Newbie351
Can u post a pic of ur ride on here so I can check out ur stance please? Thanks. I looked at the static drop thread but it seems like a lot of the drops looked the same but when people posted the stats on how they dropped a lot of them were different, even for the same year/model truck. It
Just confused me even more! Lol! It would be nice to look at what someone has done with the same idea/truck I have to know what to buy. Thanks
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Guess I need to read up as how to post pictures. I can email you a couple. Don't know if I can attach a photo to a PM. Might need an email address...
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:34 PM   #23
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My email is my screen name. Also, did u have to use a traction bar in the rear after dropping it? I read somewhere that I needed to do that.
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:47 PM   #24
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My email is my screen name. Also, did u have to use a traction bar in the rear after dropping it? I read somewhere that I needed to do that.
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I'll try to get you something over the weekend. My photos are on my home computer....

No traction bars. I have a GMC long fleetside, so I have leaf springs but the stance should be the same and my coil spring counterparts?
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Old 06-28-2013, 12:47 PM   #25
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Welcome to the forum

If you have never welded, you might check with your local college and see if they have a night/weekend course on welding.
Thats what i am planning to do!!!
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