|Lower Control arm shaft problem.

[Hotrod1979]

Hello

I installed new (original) control arms and shafts on my truck. I have torqued down the end nuts of the lower control arms. But now when the spring is being compressed the one end nut is not turning with the control arm. So the end nut turns within the control arm...

This can't be good. When I loosen the nut, this problem is solved and the nut turns evenly with the control arm when compressing the spring. But then the nut is loose..

Anybody familiar with this problem. What can I do?

[Sharps40]

Check the cetering of your control arm shaft. Sounds like one bushing is bottoming out on the shoulder of the control arm shaft and hence, the control arm rotates around the bushing. Since its only the one control arm...I'd suspect the shaft is not properly centered in the control arm opening allowing one of the bushings to bottom out.

Also, I assume you used new control arm bushings with the new shafts?

[Hotrod1979]

Can I check with control arm allready installed on the truck?
End nuts are also new.
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[Sharps40]

I don't know. I checked mine for center and function before finall assembly to the frame. Nothing in the way to measure then.

[Hotrod1979]

I just measured and they seem to be in the middle.. So how to solve this problem??
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[Sharps40]

I'd disassemble the control arms, center punch the shaft, make sure the control arm ears are not bent in on one side, reassemble to center and check the function.

It could be either an issue of one bushing bottoming out on the control arm shaft shoulder or a worn out control arm ear...the outside of the control arm bushing is an intereference type thread in the ear of the control arm. So, if its not bottomed, it may be the ear is "Stripped" and a new control arm is in order.

[Hotrod1979]

Both arms are new. I checked clearance between the end if the nut underneath the rubbers. On the front I have about 0.1" clearance left and right. On the rear about 0.14" clearance.
When filling the nuts with grease I noticed that grease was not comming out between the front nuts and shafts. When loosening the front nuts a bit, grease was comming out. Seems like nuts are on the end from their threads even though the shaft is centered and control arm ears do not seem to be bend..

Sorry for grammar misstakes as I am from the Netherlands.

I really regred buying these arms new. I should have gone for later type control arms.
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[Sharps40]

When I installed new shafts/bushings on my old arms they were free to rotate on the shaft but not in the arm ear....and, greese didn't come out of the seals or even go in easily untill I had about 100 miles on the truck to limber it up. After that, I was able to go back and regrease and see it come out. Same with the new ball joints.

[Hotrod1979]

I took out the lower control arm. I discovered that I if I loosen the nut a bit it does not turn anymore when moving the control arm. I must say that the nut moves in and out with a lot of resistance. Also the control arms travels with resistance. Problem is I don't know how it should travel. I think that tightening the nut heavely bends the ears a bit and maybe that is why the nut runs out of thread and locks up??
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[Sharps40]

I agree. If ya overtotque you can bottom the bushings on the control arm shoulders. I installed mine with the shaft centered. -- bushings seated in the control arm ears but not so tight as to pull the ears in.
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[Hotrod1979]

If you tighten the nut to the given torque spec you will bend the ears a bit. Howmuch resistance did your control arm give after afstemming the nut?
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[Hotrod1979]

This is really a crappy system! Can I switch to after 73 arms with this crossmember and keep my springs and spindles?
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[Sharps40]

I've found the stock set up fine. Lasts for years. There really is no torque for the CA bushings. And pulling them down or off center causes issues.

The CA w/new bushings is stiff. Supposed to be- its all new not worn out.

Take a break. It'll look better when the. Bloodpressure drops.
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[Hotrod1979]

Lol, well thanks for your help so far!
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[Sharps40]

I got a front end build thread on here. I'll dig it up tonight
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[Sharps40]

Here ya go...I think all the pics are still in there.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=556867

[tincan1966]

A side note here- It's not uncommon to find a "sweet spot" for the LCA nut and place a small tack weld to hold it there.

Personally, i'd choose the '73-87 any day for the rubber control arm bushings- they're quieter and ride a bit smoother. JMO

[Sharps40]

I was wonderin about tackin the nuts...seemed like a good Ider but never seen/or heard it used.

[Hotrod1979]

I have thought about tacking the bolts to prevent it from turning in the control arm. But I find the control arm to have much resistant when moving up and down. When moving up and down the nuts get warm witch means there is a lot of friction between the nuts and shafts.

I am not sure what to do. tackweld the nuts and place them back, or get rid of them and buy and install later 73-87 control arms...

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

I was wonderin about tackin the nuts...seemed like a good Ider but never seen/or heard it used.

I know it's probably not a great idea- I've only had to do it once.

On my '69 C30 before I rebuilt the whole FE I replaced a bent LCA shaft(someone jacked the truck up with the jack on the shaft) I had a simliar issue with the nut appearing to bind, so a fellow mechanic with about 20+ years more experience suggested tacking the nut to the control arm. It took grease well, never seized or broke loose. I only replaced it when doing the rebuild because I got 4 brand new control arms with ball joints shafts and bushings for the disc brake swap.

[Hotrod1979]

I allready have the CPP modular 2" disc brake dropped spindle kit. According to the Cpp site these spindles would fit trucks from 60 - 87.
But the 1964-66 and 73-87 spindle kit have got different part numbers.

Can I use my current drop spindles en lower front coils when I am using later control arms?

[tincan1966]

As far as I know the only difference is the ball joint shaft sizes, upper and lower, and the tie rod end shaft sizes. BUT you can interchange if need be on the Ball joint- IE: you can put '73-87 BJ in '63-66 control arms and vise-versa. If the spindle is for a -63-66 then no mods needed for tie rod ends. If the spindle is for '73-87 then you'll need outer tie rods for them and an adjustment sleeve that'll mate them to your '63-66 inner tie rods.(CPP has them, as well as several others)

The springs do interchange from '63-87

Clear as mud, right?

[Hotrod1979]

Yes clear as mud, lol

I have the 63-70 spindle kit so I dont have to change anything.

If the shaft size is bigger on the 73-87 control arms, would these fit the socket on the earlier crossmember? Or do I need to exchange those?

Thanks a lot for all the info! Very helpfull!

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by Hotrod1979

Yes clear as mud, lol

I have the 63-70 spindle kit so I dont have to change anything.

If the shaft size is bigger on the 73-87 control arms, would these fit the socket on the earlier crossmember? Or do I need to exchange those?

Thanks a lot for all the info! Very helpfull!

I did a bad way of descibing there. The shaft size I was referring to was the size of the ball joint and tie rod shafts-where they go into the spindle. Not the control arm shaft.

You can use the '73-87 control arm w/rubber bushings and install the '63-70 ball joints. Since you you have the '63-70 spindles the outer tie rods should fit, just fine.
Sorry to be confusing. I understand what you are wanting to achieve, I just did a poor job typing how I'd would do it.

[Hotrod1979]

It is all clear now. Thanks for all the pointers. I will look out for some later control arms and sell along my old (new) ones..

One more question. Do you know if 1973 control arms (a friend has a set laying around) are they same as control arms from later c10 trucks?