What Are The Things To Watch For?

[Swifster]

OK, I'll admit right off the bat I'm not much of a Chevy guy. I've either had Mopars for toys or Fords for daily drivers. Even now, my other toy is currently a Studebaker. So that being said, I'm learning about the truck that should be here next week.

It's roller (no engine or trans), is a SWB step side and was bought for the frame and VIN (and the title the goes with). The front sheet metal is junk, and includes a well ventilated cab. The purchase includes a 2nd well ventilated cab as well. The box has some minor rust holes, but appears repairable

The frame has a small section cut out of it on the right front. I assume this might have been to gain some clearance for some headers. The original, and I sure completely abused 12-bolt rear end is still in place.

My first question is on the frame. Are there any areas I'll need to look at to insure it won't fold up when some horsepower is applied? If these frames are prone to rust thru and weekening, where do I look and what am I watching for?

I've already been advised to ditch the rear end for a Dana 60 or Ford 9". Has anyone run some serious power thru a truck 12-bolt and have it live? I'm looking at running a 450-500 HP 6.0L and 4L60 engine and trans.

Any thoughts and ideas are welcome. I've seen the Stacy David blueprint with Copperhead, and while I'm head down a similar road, I'd rather have a SWB Fleetside with a steel floor. Thanks for the input.

[Longhorn Man]

tom, welcome to the club, and while I like a car guy with an open mind, I hope the GM gods treat you right.
The frame, there really isn't any bad areas on a 2 wheel drive. You'll want to inspect the trailing arms real close, esp in the middle (as viewed from under or over) where the 2 halfs meet, look for rust build up there. This set up is great for hookin up and haulin ass. Look under a bush car, and you'll see the same thing.
As for the 12 bolt... it's a fine rear. While the dana and the ford 9 inch are both fine units, I personally don't see any reason to upgrade. Personally, I'd replace the bearings, add a posi, toss in what ever gears you want (I'd say 3.73 since you are going overdrive) and do a c-clip eliminator kit. A stock 12 bolt would hold up fine, but a rebuilt one with c-clip eliminatos would be great.
Something you didn't mention, and may not even be aware of, is a 69 came with drum brakes all around, and you'll probably want to upgrade to 5 lug discs in front and 5 lug drums out back. You can toss new axles in the rear while rebuilding it,a nd up front, you can remove the whole cross member out of a 71 - 87 truck, and the later ones have variable rate steering to boot.

[Aarons72s]

I second Longhorn Man. I have a few more suggestions for checking out the frame. Look at where the rear springs mount to the frame. It is a place where rust likes to form and push the metal apart, like Longhorn Man describes on the trailling arms. By the way
Aaron

[Swifster]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

You'll want to inspect the trailing arms real close, esp in the middle (as viewed from under or over) where the 2 halfs meet, look for rust build up there.

OK, so let me make sure what's being said. The actual trailing arms are problems along with the rear spring perches? We're not talking about where the trailing arms mount to the crossmember, but the actual trail arm? If this is what you are telling me, I can deal with it . The spring perches may be more of a pain, but I'm sure I could easily fix those if necessary. I'll be replacing the trailing arms, so they are of no concern. I just don't want the frame folding up on me when I mash the loud pedal .

[Aarons72s]

The trailling arms not where they mount. As for where I said where the coils mount to the frame it is in very rare cases ( i had one of the rare cases) but those are the 2 only places that really atract rust on the frames.
Aaron

[Swifster]

Thanks! As mentioned, this truck is extremely rusty. I'll know a lot more once the truck gets moved to my house and I can get the bed off of it.

[fast_dev]

congrats on the new project. don't worry about the frame taking the power (unless you have rust issues) or the 12 bolt either. especially if your running an automatic. i race a 68 shortbed with all stock suspension, no race parts other that lakewood shocks. has stock rear coils and new front coils, just regular replacements. stock trailing arms with the original bushings, the truck 12 bolt did suffer from the four speed launching off the line. cured that with a moser spool and axles in the stock housing. truck has gone 11.91 in full street trim, small block 4 speed, no power adders, all motor. good luck with your project. Dev.