drive shaft shortening question

[johnw893]

I swapped a dana 60 into the rear of my 69 k10 this weekend and after putting the drive shaft in it is almost completely bottomed out in the slip yoke even after I moved the axle a 1 1/2" back to correct for shackle flip. I know it needs to be shortened cuz when I test drove it I could feel the gas pedal moving when I went over some bumps. So heres my question my truck has the 2 piece drive shaft so I was woundering if I can just cut an inch or 1 1/2" off the male splines of the first shaft I figure it's the same as shortening the rear one but easier. Would this work or would I still need to have it rebalanced it's not a speed machine it will only go 70 tops. Also any tips for changing out the center support bearing mine is pretty shot. And do all the trucks of the gen have the same size bearing for it? AutoZone shows. Couple sizes

[Mike C]

On my truck I had to move the axle back as well when I did a rear swap. And in that case it was not the male part of the driveshaft where the interference was but the female splined portion that is too long.

Suck it up, pull the shaft and go have it shortened and re-balanced. Or if it is anything like my original shaft was with 300k miles on it, replace it with a new custom built one. On my Jimmy which has less wheelbase I went to a double cardan CV rear shaft (like the factory front shaft).

[johnw893]

In mine it's the male spline tgat is hitting the back of the female it still has about 4 inches of spline before the slip female slip yoke that isn't even possible to use cuz the female is shorter which is Wat gave me the idea. The truck only has 53k on it and I would like to not spend another 200 I have a wedding to pay for. I just want to know if there is a reason it shouldn't be done that way