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Old 09-30-2007, 09:28 PM   #1
Jcentsr6
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C-Notch question.

If I install a C-notch how much lower can I go before rear tires/rear diff hit the bed. I dont want to cut a hole in the rear bed....but I want to go lower in the rear. I have airbags touching the rear bumpstops right now....thinking of installing a c-notch. Is it worth installing with out cutting the bed?? Thanks in advance guys.
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Old 09-30-2007, 10:45 PM   #2
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Re: C-Notch question.

A bolt in notch is well worth the money.
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Old 09-30-2007, 10:55 PM   #3
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Re: C-Notch question.

I dont mind cutting the frame for a c-notch...but dont want a big hold in my bed.
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Old 09-30-2007, 11:02 PM   #4
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Re: C-Notch question.

It has to do with the tire overall diamater as to how much you have to cut, so the bigger the diamater, the more that needs to be removed.
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Old 09-30-2007, 11:19 PM   #5
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Re: C-Notch question.

How much further can the axle tube go past the bottom of the frame rail (into a "C" notch) before the top of the diff section hits the bottom of the bed floor?
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Old 09-30-2007, 11:57 PM   #6
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Re: C-Notch question.

I have 295/45/20 rear tires.
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Old 10-01-2007, 12:39 PM   #7
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Re: C-Notch question.

If I recall correctly, if you use the rubber bumpers that are supplied with the notch, the diff won't hit the bed floor. However, if you remove them, you will have clearance issues.
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Old 10-01-2007, 04:06 PM   #8
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Re: C-Notch question.

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Originally Posted by Slammed67 View Post
If I recall correctly, if you use the rubber bumpers that are supplied with the notch, the diff won't hit the bed floor. However, if you remove them, you will have clearance issues.
I was not aware of the bumpers came with a notch kit. Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2007, 05:42 PM   #9
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Re: C-Notch question.

My truck only has about an inch difference between the distance from the frame to the axle and the diff to the floor. So in reality I could only gain another inch of clearance before hitting the floor by adding a notch. I've seen lot's of 4x4 guys shave the bottom of the diff for more ground clearance. I don't see why it couldn't be done to the top of a diff to give you more clearance for the bed floor.
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Old 10-01-2007, 06:19 PM   #10
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Re: C-Notch question.

The bolt-in style c-notches come w/bumpstops.

If you install the bumpstops, the rear pumpkin won't hit the bedfloor. Install the c-notch w/o the bumpstop....the pumpkin will hit the floor. The bolt-in c-notch has a 3" depth & the urethane bump-stop is 1.5". If your current frame is not cut, you would gain approx 1.5" + the height of the current bump-stop & bracket (I don't have one so I can't get that measurement for you).

Hope this helps..... Scot.
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Old 10-01-2007, 07:35 PM   #11
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Re: C-Notch question.

My ECE bumpstop is only about 1/2" - 3/4" thick ... small saucer shaped stop.
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Old 10-01-2007, 07:43 PM   #12
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Re: C-Notch question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shane View Post
My ECE bumpstop is only about 1/2" - 3/4" thick ... small saucer shaped stop.
Mine currently doesn't have a floor above the rear-end so I can't say for sure but I know my pumpkin hit the old wood floor w/o the axle housing ever bottoming in the c-notch. I didn't have any stops.... I used what was left of the original wood.
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It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

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Old 10-01-2007, 11:11 PM   #13
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Re: C-Notch question.

Just read what I typed ... it's NOT a ECE ... it is CPP that i have and the bump stops that came with bolt in notch ...they are the thin type.

I have no bed floor in either and it's hard to tell on a wood floor when its NOT THERE ... if your's hit, then that pretty much seals the deal with mine hitting ... dang it.

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Old 10-02-2007, 02:21 PM   #14
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Re: C-Notch question.

I purchased 1/4" taller bumpstops through Summit (Energy Suspension pieces, I can get the part no. later), and as far as I can tell, my diff clears the floor now edit: I have a steel floor(I have CPP bolt-in notch). However, I may be singing a different tune once I get the bed off the rubber pads so the body lines match up.
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