I hate rust...

[Square_78]

What a waste of a day...

Finally got my flip kit in from Summit Racing... went and bought a nice floor jack and attempted to install my front drop springs on my 78 C10... Im fairly mechanically inclined so I figured it would be easy... spent about 2 hours trying to remove the RUSTED cotter pin from the lower ball joint castle nut. Then spent an hour trying to loosen the same castle nut.. WTF! I even had a 3 foot breaker bar and an 8 lb sledge and the thing wouldnt budge. I sprayed it with penetrating oil a couple days ago so I thought everything would come off easy. Yeah right! I dont have access to a torch, and already had my wheels off my truck so I couldnt go to the store and buy one... What a waste of a day. Had to put everything back together and I'm still rolling at stock height

Now Im having second thoughts about installing my flip kit at my house. If the back is anything like the front, Im gunna be screwed. I guess Im going to have to take it to a shop and get them to put the springs and flip kit in. I really wanted to do it myself. Stupid rust!

[Low84]

I feel for ya!

This kinda thing happens to me more often than I'd like. Still got a real nice inner bruise on my hand and my mishap happened two weekends ago

[Square_78]

If i had air tools and a oxy/acet torch. things might be different... But then again, if i had all that, then I would buy a welder and air bag the thing. Me and my little garage full of hand tools is apparently no match for Canadian rust!

lol

[xrcr]

If it's not rust it's something else. I've been building the doors on my 76 for a week and they are still winning. Paitence is a requirement...

[xrcr]

If it's not rust it's something else. I've been building the doors on my 76 for a week and they are still winning. Patience is a requirement...

[BigBlocksRule]

You only need two tools:
1) 1/2" drive impact wrench
2) Blue tipped crescent wrench (a.k.a. torch)
If you aren't already using it, use PB Blaster to cut through the rust, WD-40 isn't worth squat in this application.

[donut]

You do what you gotta do.

Yes, rust sucks, but working on an old truck (or newer one) sometimes you have to deal with it. Go in with the mindset, if it's threaded, it's trash.
Wire brush and penetrating oil is a good start. Feel free to soak them days in advance.
Heat can help, even a little propane torch (plumber's, not "crack pipe") is sometimes enough. Impact to break them loose. Hammer, not air tools, just enough to "shock" the fitting. I had an old set of wrenches from a yard sale, perfect to beat on. Lot's of times more effective than brute force.
Something to cut metal. (For the stubborn ones, old ones still have to come out) Sawzall, grinder...

Shop can save you a lot of grief, but you will pay. There is a shop close to me that does charge more if they have to deal with old rust.

My former truck had a dealer installed snowplow, I have seen rust.

[motornut]

sometimes the wire brush
sometimes a quick sand blast
for sure soaking helps
my impact won't crack rusty nuts,seems more threads rip out with no control
manual for me,you feel it loosen up better

[esbstuff]

????

Originally Posted by xrcr

If it's not rust it's something else. I've been building the doors on my 76 for a week and they are still winning. Paitence is a requirement...

[nekkidhillbilly]

pb blaster is your friend

[babyJay]

The back is probably not going to be any easier. As stated, lots of patience is required. I use anti-seize on almost everything I re-assemble these days, just in case I keep it long enough to have to go through it again.

[chevymotocross]

Originally Posted by BigBlocksRule

You only need two tools:
1) 1/2" drive impact wrench
2) Blue tipped crescent wrench (a.k.a. torch)
If you aren't already using it, use PB Blaster to cut through the rust, WD-40 isn't worth squat in this application.

what he said

[nekkidhillbilly]

yeah wd 40 dont cut it

[DetroitIron]

Originally Posted by babyJay

The back is probably not going to be any easier. As stated, lots of patience is required. I use anti-seize on almost everything I re-assemble these days, just in case I keep it long enough to have to go through it again.

x2 on the use of anti-seize!