Time to fix up Dad's old truck

[Jeepwm69]

Have an 1983 High Sierra, 305, 4 speed with low (SM465?), body is perfect (needs paint, but no rust/dents), probably about 60K miles on it.

Dad is getting older and about 18 months ago he threw a rock through the back windshield with the mower and the truck has been sitting since. I put a battery on it last weekend and it cranked, so it still runs, but it needs some work. Dad always used it as a work/ farm truck, but I'd like to get it really fixed up.

Problems to address

Starter is "clicking". The truck starts, but there was a clicking coming from starter area as if a low battery. I put a new Optima on there with full charge, so I'm going to clean/ reconnect the wires on the starter and see if that helps, and if not, I'll get a new starter for it.

Gas gauge reads full when ign is off, and when you turn key on it jumps to 3 oclock. From what I found here that means bad ground to sending unit or bad sending unit. That sound right?

AC does not hold charge. There is a streak of oil on the underside of the hood right over the compressor, so would this mean a compressor leak? I've retrofitted my Jeep CJ from R12 to R134, but I've got to find the leak here before I can do that to the truck. I've done some work here too on that and looks like I'll need to replace dryer/ oriface tube and adjust some other part (name escapes me at the moment). Looks like it has an R4 comprssor from the pics on autozones website. If the compressor is leaking, I figure I'd be better off just getting a new one unless these things are easy to fix.

Speedo quit working several years ago, and the mechanic took the little box off (it had seized up) and screwed the cable straight into the tranny. It reads about 10mph slow. Anyone know a parts house where I can get another box? I don't have the original and I'm sure it has a speedo gear similar to my CJ's so that might be a chore. Speedo also squeaks. Not sure if it's the cable or the gauge. Guess I'll unhook the cable and see if the squeaking stops and that will tell me which it is. If it's the speedo is there a way to lubricate it?

Doors sag. Can I just get new hinge pins and bushings for this?

Dash is cracked badly. Do the glue on dash covers look decent? I don't want to spend $300 on a new pad, but I don't want to spend $125 on something that won't look good either. Not looking for a show truck, but want it to look nice.

I want to fix the above things and get the outside painted/ trim reattached.

Dad lives 5 hours from me so it will be a little bit at a time, but I'm trying to get my info straight so I know where to go when I get back to the truck.

[Square84]

lots of questions the clicking could be bad connections bad cables or a bad solenoid.gas gauge you nailed it could be bad sender or bad ground. on the a/c go to the parts store and get some dye for the system it will make the leak green and easier to find, if its the compressor its easier to replace and only run about $100 new.on the speedo the cable sqeaks when its dry get some graphite and squirt it in the cable and the sqeaking will go away.on the doors as long as hinges are in good shape the pins and bushings should take care of it.and the glue on pad i have one and it looks good but not perfect but my trucks not a show truck either, and i got mine for $10 so i cant hardly gripe. hopefully this helps some and welcome to the board its a great place for info. and lets see some pics of this thing!

[Jeepwm69]

Thanks for the reply.
The AC would hold a charge for several months, but we quit charging it a few years ago because we figured out it wouldn't last. From what I've read I should change the O rings in the AC system when retrofitting. My Jeep's system didn't have Orings (flanged fittings) so I didn't have to do the Orings on that job. Are the Orings just where the hoses connect or are there others I should look for? Would it be safe to assume that the compressor is at least one place that would be leaking since there is oil all over the underside of the hood right about the compressor?

This won't ever be a show truck by any means, so I'll probably go with a coverlay on the dash.

[old Rusty C10]

welcome to the board! sounds like you have alot of the same issues we all have with these trucks.. lots of knowledge here so you should get the answers.. we would love to see pics of your truck too if you could.. again welcome

[Jeepwm69]

I'll get some pics next time I'm down there. It's got about 2 inches of tree sap on it at the moment. Dad's got a 95 Sierra that he inherited from my grandfather and he's been driving the 95. I don't want to watch the 83 just sit there and rot so I'm going to get it going again and fix it up.
I'll get some pics posted and let ya'll know how it progresses.

[old Rusty C10]

i have an 82 chevy c10 that i seldom get to work on but i hear ya these trucks can run rings around the newer ones.. mine has half a million miles on it and still runs great

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

Speedo quit working several years ago, and the mechanic took the little box off (it had seized up) and screwed the cable straight into the tranny. It reads about 10mph slow. Anyone know a parts house where I can get another box? I don't have the original and I'm sure it has a speedo gear similar to my CJ's so that might be a chore. Speedo also squeaks. Not sure if it's the cable or the gauge. Guess I'll unhook the cable and see if the squeaking stops and that will tell me which it is. If it's the speedo is there a way to lubricate it?

is this what you're looking for?

[Jeepwm69]

Yeah, about 1990 (ish) the speedo broke, and i took it out to the GMC dealership and the guy had that off and said a new one would be $100+, but that he could put the cable straight to the transmission and it would work, but wouldn't be 100% correct, so that's what we did at the time.

I'd like to get it right, but don't have the original. If it's anything like my Jeeps, you kinda need the original one to get the right part # or you just have to guess. I don't want to guess if it's still a pricey part (which I'm sure it is).

I found this site

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm

"#54RA2. If your truck tires have been switched to larger tires or you just need to speed up your speedometer this one will correct your problem. This part will speed up your speedometer reading. Cost $62.00
Qty 123
Speed Up Rate Select the Correct %Speed Up 11%Speed Up 20%Speed Up 28%Speed Up 38%Speed Up 44%Speed Up 78%


Other ratios available on special order, allow 2 to 4 weeks. No refunds on special orders. The male side can be turned 180 degrees, just remove the 4 screws and turn. We can slow your speedometer down as much as 58% or speed it up as much as 200%. Cost $72.00"

Kinda thought if I can figure out how much the speedo is off I can have them make me one. Anyone used one of these from that website and if so, did it work ok?

[Ds86C10]

i took the same hunk of junk off my truck... i dont know why they put them on but i just got the correct speedo gear for my tire size and rear end gears. a guy at my local tranny shop helped me figure it out for free

[Jeepwm69]

Well, made a little progress on the truck when I went to visit this week. Got new (well, slightly used) tires mounted, got the thing around to the front of the house, and the water pump started seeping. Starter was still making a clicky noise when starting but it did turn the engine over. Next time I'm down that way I'll take some pics.

Took it out to a shop and had a water pump put on it. Thing didn't run worth a darn on the way to the shop, but after sitting since 06 I kinda expected that. I didn't have time to get into anything further, but supposedly Dad was going to pick it up today and said he'd take it out and get the new rear glass installed early next week.

Just an idea, but when Dad went by the local GM dealership and asked about getting a new rear windshield, they had a couple of plain ones out back left from people changing to sliding back glass. They GAVE him a piece of glass for the rear windshield, so if ya'll need rear glass, you might try the dealerships in your area first.

[73chevyman]

think your starter could be going like the gear is sticking for a sec then doing its job but before you go that far change all the battery cables and starter wires make sure all the grounds are good and clean if it still does it chnge the starter start small before you go to the big stuff. wires tend to go bad where you can't see it could be a bad spot some where in the wire neve know

[73chevyman]

mind my spelling kinda tired lol

[Jeepwm69]

Battery is a new Optima red top, cables look good on that end, but could be corroded on the starter end, or could just be bad wires. My Jeeps have made me proficient at replacing starters, so I'll probably get new wires first (because they're cheap, and it won't hurt to replace them) and if that doesn't work, replace the starter.
When I get can get pics and get them posted I'll be back on here asking about cosmetic stuff, but right now I just want to get it running again.
All of this is going to go very slowly cause Dad lives 5 hours from me so I only get to work on it when I go down there to visit. I'm thinking about getting it running well and bringing it home with me. Wife would love that since she already has a problem with my old Jeeps and Jeep parts everywhere.......

[N2TRUX]

Starter is "clicking". -It could be a bad solenoid, but check your grounds. Look at the bottom side of the cables. I have seen them look like new on top, but be split and corroded on bottom.

There is a streak of oil on the underside of hood-This is probably not the source of your freon leak. This is common, and GM says they should seep a bit of oil for lubrication. I find that to be pure BS, but GM says it true.

Speedo also squeaks.Probably the cable. Lube it with graphite.

Doors sag.This could be worn hinges, but probably just bushing and pins.

Dash is cracked badly. Your going to get what you pay for here. If you can live with "ok" fit then the covers look "ok". If you really want GM looks, your going to have to pay the price. Check with Capt kaos and see what he can do for you.

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Starter is "clicking". -It could be a bad solonoid, but check your grounds. Look at the bottom side of the cables. I have seen them look like new on top, but be split and corrodeed on bottom..

Yeah, I've been through all that with the Jeeps before. Started replacing parts and it ended up being a cable that was partially separated inside the insulation so it was bad, and it looked ok. Batt cables are cheap so I'll just replace them.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

There is a streak of oil on the underside of hood-This is probably not the source of your freon leak. This is common, andGM says they should seep a bit of oil for lubrication. I find that to be pure BS, but GM says it true.
.

I planned on getting a new drier, new lines, and new compressor, but if the oil on the underside of the hood does not necessarily mean compressor leak, I might want to pressurize the system and find the leak before I do all of that. Is there something I can pressurize the system with other than R12 to see where the leak is (I know they make stuff with dye, but can I use it with something other than R12)?
I have R134 guages and have retrofitted one of my CJ7's to R134 with no problems, but it didn't have a leak. Once I find the leak on this truck I plan to vacuum it down and put R134 in it. I've seen the writeups on this site about what needs to be changed, and while it seems to be a bit more complicated than the Jeep, I think it's something I can handle.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Speedo also squeaks.Probably the cable. Lube it with graphite.
.

That I can handle.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Doors sag.This could be worn hinges, but probably just bushing and pins.
.

Anyone recommend any upgraded bushing/pins? I found some that claim to be better, but they were $$$ and I thought for that I'd just rather replace with stock style pins every few years. I've got to do this on Dad's 95 Sierra too. Its doors are sagging badly.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX;3157496
[B

Dash is cracked badly.[/B] Your going to get what you pay for here. If you can live with "ok" fit then the covers look "ok". If you really want GM looks, your going to have to pay the price. Check with Capt kaos and see what he can do for you.

Well, this will never be a show truck, so I'll probably go with a cover. I know it won't look perfect, but with what I ultimately intend to do with this truck (piddle around town and the farm) while I want it to be clean (for lack of a better word) it doesn't have to be perfect. Dad bought it stock with few options, and I'll keep it as just a bare bones, but nice, older classic truck.

Thanks again for all of the input thus far.

[Jeepwm69]

Finally got some pics.

New water pump installed, rear glass put in, new plugs, and it runs like a champ. Starter is still acting funny. Probably just going to replace it. Obviously needs a cleaning in a BAD way, but only have 3 spots on the whole truck with any rust, and the only one of those that concerns me is the sill on the drivers side....


Odometer is showing 35XXX miles, but the speedo was broken for a year or two, and now the cable goes straight into the tranny (no adapter) so it reads about 20% slow give or take. Actual milage is probably around 50K if I had to guess.

Dad bought this thing new in August of 1983 for around $9K


Now the pics.

[Jeepwm69]

Couple more pics

[SBTork]

wow, if it were in a barn I'd call it a barn find. It needs to be cleaned up and it'll be good.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

I planned on getting a new drier, new lines, and new compressor, but if the oil on the underside of the hood does not necessarily mean compressor leak, I might want to pressurize the system and find the leak before I do all of that. Is there something I can pressurize the system with other than R12 to see where the leak is (I know they make stuff with dye, but can I use it with something other than R12)?
I have R134 guages and have retrofitted one of my CJ7's to R134 with no problems, but it didn't have a leak. Once I find the leak on this truck I plan to vacuum it down and put R134 in it. I've seen the writeups on this site about what needs to be changed, and while it seems to be a bit more complicated than the Jeep, I think it's something I can handle.

I use Nitrogen after the system is vacuumed down and holds that vacuum for 6 -12 hours. You could use any inert gas Helium, CO2 or Argon gas from your MIG or TIG.

Make sure your compressor is filled with correct fresh dry oil. Make sure you don't have too much oil floating around the rest of the system it won't cool well if you do.
134 conversions that last aren't super cheap. R12 and R134 use very different refrigerant soluble oils. R134 will not properly carry the R12 oil around the system. If you plan on converting to 134 completely flush the system of old oil and drain the compressor. Refill compressor with a full charge of 134 oil and install a new drier, 134 barrier hoses and, all new 134 seals (134 will slowly bleed through most R12 hoses and seals).

[Jeepwm69]

Looked at the gas gauge issue today. I found a ground wire on the frame, and when I pulled on it it was broken somewhere up above the tank. I found a loose end comingout of a loom right around the sending unit and hooked the ground up to that wire and now when I turn the key on the gauge goes all the way to E. Did I hook the ground wire to the sending wire? Not sure how they got broken, but apparently they are. Looks like to fix it I can either drop the tank or take off the bed......

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

Looked at the gas gauge issue today. I found a ground wire on the frame, and when I pulled on it it was broken somewhere up above the tank. I found a loose end comingout of a loom right around the sending unit and hooked the ground up to that wire and now when I turn the key on the gauge goes all the way to E. Did I hook the ground wire to the sending wire? Not sure how they got broken, but apparently they are. Looks like to fix it I can either drop the tank or take off the bed......

What color was the wire?
Black, Blue, Purple, or Light-Green should be the ground wire attached from the tank near the sender locking ring to the frame. I don't remember if its attached to the lock ring, sender or, the tank collar.

Sender wire color on a single tank will be Pink. Duals will be Pink striped with black or white back to the selector and Pink to the firewall plug. TBI duals are Gray or Tan back to the selector valve and Pink to the firewall plug.

Grounding the sender wire will drop the needle to @ 9:00 position. The sender wire hanging loose or a bad tank ground will put the needle at @ 3:00.

[jchav62]

Nice start. That's not a bad looking truck there.

[Jeepwm69]

Went for a visit this weekend. Vacuumed it out (still need to scrub the seat and dash, but got the leaves and dead bugs out of the interior), took it to the car wash and power washed it. Almost all of the sap blew right off the sides, so it actually looks pretty good now (the hood and top of the cab have some sap that the power washer wouldn't touch; guess I'm gonna have to really scrub those areas). Found the factory GMC hubcaps and put those back on too. Changed the oil (and noticed that Dad must have had an entire new exhaust from manifold to tip put on the truck right before he parked it). Truck runs great, and looks pretty decent now, although I plan to really clean it up a little bit at a time.

NOW, couple of questions. The doors rattle like heck and won't shut all the way. Originally I thought it would be hinge pins like we had on our 95 GMC, but the doors on this truck don't seem to have any play in the hinges, and after looking at them they don't really seem to be sagging. I'm thinking maybe replace the door weather stripping and then move the door striker pin. Does that sound like the "usual" way of addressing door rattles?

I need to replace the starter. Are the two bolts coming out of the bottom of the starter the mounting bolts? On my Jeep 258's the starter bolts are verticle to the ground (and the solenoid is on the inner fender, not attached to the starter). Does the starter kinda slip into place and then two mounting bolts go straight up into the motor?

Last, when the truck is first started, it will idle for a second and then seems like it's loading up and will die unless I tap the gas a bit. After 30 seconds or so it idles fine. I'm familiar with motorcraft 2100's (swapped onto my Jeeps) but don't know squat about the carb on this truck. What model is it and anyone have a page with troubleshooting information on this particular carb?

Thanks for the repsonses so far. I'm going back down in mid May and will post some more pics.

[Tonystepside]

that truck can be very nice

[Damien]

Yes, those are the starter bolts. Take those out and slide the starter forward about two inches, then drop it down. Its very simple. Your carb is a Quadrajet. The choke probably needs adjustment. A carb rebuild probably is not a bad idea because of the age and the time it spent sitting. If you are going to rebuild the carb, you will need the carb number to get the right carb kit.