Balancer Install Gone Wrong

[68_Step]

Sunday started out good... Until I started to the installation of the new harmonic balancer. I got it from Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-161350

I took the old balancer off a few days ago, no problems. I do not have an balancer installer, only a puller. According to the instructions if I did not have an installer I could heat the balancer in boiling water for 15 minutes to expand it it a bit, then put it on the shaft aligning it with the keyway and using a piece of aluminum (I used wood) to protect it drive it on. It started on alright then just stopped - I have it a couple more whacks and it did not move.

I decided that I would just take it off and try again. It would not come off - I broke the puller. I now have a balancer that is mostly off. I have ordered a new puller / installer kit. With any luck FedEx dropped it at my front door a few minutes ago.

Could the key have gotten misaligned and pushed out the back when I was putting it on? Now I am wedged? Any thoughts or opinions would be appreciated. 1st pic is how far I got it on, the 2nd pic is how far I got it off.

[Molberg]

I didn't know they sold an installer. I've always just used the factory bolt. (With anti-seize on inside of balancer) If it's being stubborn when removing it.... once you have lots of tension on the puller, if you give the end of the jack bolt a wrap with a hammer it'll bust it loose.

[americanmusc1e]

technically you are supposed to use an installer to make sure you don't pull the threads out of the crank (due to not utilizing all the threads when you first start) AND you aren't supposed to use a hammer because you could damage the thrust surface/thrust washer on the crank.

With that said... I've always used the old head of a 10lb sledgehammer (a few whacks with a very solid object are usually a lot better than pounding with a tiny hammer) and a block of wood to drive mine on. AND some really old SBC's (like a 283) may not have a threaded hole in the front of the crank and must be driven on.


In the case of the OP. I'm guessing that your new balancer is just very tight (the aftermarket ones tend to be) and needs an installer tool to be installed. A BFH + factory bolt a few turns at a time might do the trick though

[RichardJ]

>>using a piece of aluminum (...) to protect it drive it on.<<

Not the best advice.

What kind of puller were you using that broke?

Heat might help getting it off, BUT it may ruin the elastomer on the new damper?? Sorry, not much help.

It is advisable not to use the bolt for installation. At the beginning the bolt can only catch one or two threads and you run the risk of pulling the threads out.

What does your installer look like? I use the bolt from a steering wheel puller. It has the same thread size as the crank on my L98. It's long enough that it can be threaded in more than an inch and then tightening the nut, pushes the balancer on squarely. The three oiled stainless washers act as the thrust bearing.

As you are pushing the damper on, you may want to stop and check to see that you haven't pushed the key out of the way. Slide something like a WD40 straw, into the key slot. If the key is wrong, the straw will go in the entire depth of the damper hub. The farther the damper is pushed, the shorter the straw.

[aod92]

To pull it back off try using a slide puller. It's always worked for me.

[Orange Crate]

Keep in mind that damaging the threads in the crank is a crank change, any damage to the crank end (nose) is a crank change and any damage to the keyway is a crank change. I'm talking about damage that can't be filed down or "saved" by using a tap. This happened to me with the discovery of a loose balancer after many many miles. The keyway had hammered itself out to about twice the width. I ended up installing a new forged nitrited crank AND a full length stud for the balance bolt. You might want to borrow a balancer intall tool or invest in one to save you the cost and time of changing the crank. I'm just sayin'.....

[leftybass209]

I'm not saying this to be rude, but there's a reason for using correct tools and this is why. This isn't like stripping a screw on a taillight bezel using the wrong screwdriver. There's a lot of man hours and money that goes into replacing or repairing a crankshaft. It's invaluable to invest in a proper repair manual, and cost me a grand total of $0.00 to rent a harmonic balancer tool from O'Reillys. Best of luck with the removal and hopefully there's no damage done.

[71swb4x4]

My advice is probably a little late, but I went to Advance Auto and they loaned me the tool for free. They "sold" me the puller/installation tool for $138, I drove home, installed my balancer, and 30 minutes later I "returned" the tool and got all of my money back. That's the way they rent the tools. They have you purchase it, and then they return it when you get it back. No risk for them, and you get to use the tool for free.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by RichardJ

As you are pushing the damper on, you may want to stop and check to see that you haven't pushed the key out of the way. Slide something like a WD40 straw, into the key slot. If the key is wrong, the straw will go in the entire depth of the damper hub. The farther the damper is pushed, the shorter the straw.

I will try that tomorrow night. The new OTC puller / installer arrived this afternoon. Will try to take it off again ....

[enaberif]

I couldn't rent a installer as nobody had one or even knew what it was.

Grabbed some 7/16x20 threaded rod and a few washers and nuts and made my own installer.

[tranz am]

Only one proper way to do it. Use an installer. Thet are so so nice to have. besides you wouldn't want to strip out your threads on your crank or bust the bolt would you?

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by tranz am

Only one proper way to do it. Use an installer. Thet are so so nice to have. besides you wouldn't want to strip out your threads on your crank or bust the bolt would you?

I agree. Only way to install a balancer in my opinion. I used to beat em on in the old days until I realized what I am doing to the thrust bearing.
Another thing is you might want to pull that balancer off and dress the leading edge a bit with a rat tailed file. I also "clean" the inside of them with an old abrasive bit that goes into my drill. Not much. It doesn't take any metal off, but just cleans.
Mike the size of both also. Most of the parts we are getting come from China or other places that use the metric system. Our crankshafts were designed to inches. I have had seen them be so dang exact sized it would gall the crank trying to force it on.
O'reillys and Autozone also have the tool program. You pay full price for the tool, use it, bring it back within 3 days, full refund.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by cooperhw

I agree. Only way to install a balancer in my opinion. I used to beat em on in the old days until I realized what I am doing to the thrust bearing.

Lesson learned, only an installer from now on

Another thing is you might want to pull that balancer off and dress the leading edge a bit with a rat tailed file. I also "clean" the inside of them with an old abrasive bit that goes into my drill. Not much. It doesn't take any metal off, but just cleans.

After I get the blasted thing off I will try cleaning up the edge - thanks for the idea. The new puller (and installer) looks very heavy duty, don't think I could break it. Hopefully

Mike the size of both also. Most of the parts we are getting come from China or other places that use the metric system. Our crankshafts were designed to inches. I have had seen them be so dang exact sized it would gall the crank trying to force it on.

I have a caliper, not a micrometer think that would work? I picked it up from Amazon a couple years ago: Amazon.com: Neiko 01407A Stanless Steel 6-Inch...

[GMCPaul]

The reason a installer should ALWAYS be used on a harmonic balancer is the thrust bearing in the motor can become damaged by hammering the harmonic balancer on. Once the thrust bearing has been torqued down after checking side tolerances any hammering on the crank shaft can damage the thrust bearing and change the bearing side tolerance allowing the crank shaft to move slightly forward & back in the engine block resulting in early damage to crank, rod, piston & transmission. In the case of the transmission damage it will normally cause the external case to crack and separate in the bell housing area.
Paul Jr.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Not sure how it would even be possible, but in both pics you posted the balancer looks like it's on crooked. Could just be the pics... in all the pics I take of my house remodel the door jams always look like they're from a fun house (but they're somewhat level and somewhat straight.)

[sboris]

Wouldnt hammering also risk ruining the balancer itself ? Defeating any purpose at all.

Glad you got a installer. Good luck.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Not sure how it would even be possible, but in both pics you posted the balancer looks like it's on crooked. Could just be the pics... in all the pics I take of my house remodel the door jams always look like they're from a fun house (but they're somewhat level and somewhat straight.)

Yep, in the pic it looks crooked - looks OK in person, but I will put a machinist ruler on it just so I know

[68_Step]

With the better quality puller it came off easy. Tomorrow night I will try the install using the installer. Does not look like there is any damage to the crank or balancer

[EARNHARDT#3]

Thank goodness! I would've felt so sorry for you. Good job for waiting and using the right tool.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

Thank goodness! I would've felt so sorry for you. Good job for waiting and using the right tool.

I gotta admit I did glance at the splitting maul!

[brown7373]

Make sure the key is fully into the slot. You might have caught it and pushed it back and then the rear of it would come up and block it from going any further.

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by brown7373

Make sure the key is fully into the slot. You might have caught it and pushed it back and then the rear of it would come up and block it from going any further.

He's right^^^.
Might want to install another key. Doesn't take much of a bugger to catch and cause it to rotate up in the rear. Just take your time, and you'll be ok.

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by brown7373

Make sure the key is fully into the slot. You might have caught it and pushed it back and then the rear of it would come up and block it from going any further.

Its also advised to put rtv as well on the key to stop any possible weepage in that area.

[Longhorn 70]

also I usually clean the snout of the crank first with solvent. feel for burrs. also feel the inside of the balancer and inspect the keyway inside before reinstall.

[Hutch]

68_Step
There is a bunch on How To video's on this subject
Here is one that seems pretty relevant
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8