Engine in alaska?

[winningz]

trying to find a good choice for a crate engine. most places don't ship to alaska or the shipping is crazy.
I have found this Amazon.com: Genuine GM 12499529 Economy...what do you guys think? any suggestions?
thanks in advance.

[kalbert]

Any GM dealers in your area you can order from? They likely will beat most shipping quotes because they'd have truck loads instead of piecemeal. Plus you'd be supporting your local economy.

[rich weyand]

That engine is a low-compression engine running the L82/L46 Corvette cam, which is a 1960s cam designed for high-compression engines. Way too late on the intake valve closure, which kills the dynamic compression at low rpms and makes it a performance turd under about 3000 rpm. Basically, there just isn't enough static compression with those heads to give away that much intake stroke. Once you get it wound up, it's fine, but low-end torque sucks. Might be OK for a light car, but not a truck. BTDT, and I re-cammed the engine a year later.

Go with this one instead: Amazon.com: 350 Chevy Long Block Engine - 5.7 l 350 c.i.d. Engine: Automotive The only difference between these two engines is the cam, and you don't want that L82/L46 cam in a low compression engine. Trust me on this.

If you want to soup it up, install a Comp Cams 12-235-2 cam and the recommended lifters and springs. If you do it to a never-run engine, you don't *need* to change the lifters, but I would use the Comp recommended ones. That will give you 290 hp also, but will also give you 415 lbft of torque at 2500 rpm!

Couple notes:

- if you run the engine at all, even fifteen minutes, then you have to install new lifters when you change the cam. If you change the cam before you ever run it, then you don't, although you probably want to go to the lifters Comp recommends for that cam while you have it open anyway.

- yes, changing the cam voids the warranty, but the warranty is also voided by installing the engine yourself, so no loss there. Those engines are bulletproof, so not a problem.

So, save $500 on the engine, then spend a bit less than that on a new cam and the recommended lifters and springs, and you will have a really nice engine cheap.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

That engine is a low-compression engine running the L82/L46 Corvette cam, which is a 1960s cam designed for high-compression engines. Way too late on the intake valve closure, which kills the dynamic compression at low rpms and makes it a performance turd under about 3000 rpm. Basically, there just isn't enough static compression with those heads to give away that much intake stroke. Once you get it wound up, it's fine, but low-end torque sucks. Might be OK for a light car, but not a truck. BTDT, and I re-cammed the engine a year later.

Go with this one instead: Amazon.com: 350 Chevy Long Block Engine - 5.7 l 350 c.i.d. Engine: Automotive The only difference between these two engines is the cam, and you don't want that L82/L46 cam in a low compression engine. Trust me on this.

If you want to soup it up, install a Comp Cams 12-235-2 cam and the recommended lifters and springs. If you do it to a never-run engine, you don't *need* to change the lifters, but I would use the Comp recommended ones. That will give you 290 hp also, but will also give you 415 lbft of torque at 2500 rpm!

Couple notes:

- if you run the engine at all, even fifteen minutes, then you have to install new lifters when you change the cam. If you change the cam before you ever run it, then you don't, although you probably want to go to the lifters Comp recommends for that cam while you have it open anyway.

- yes, changing the cam voids the warranty, but the warranty is also voided by installing the engine yourself, so no loss there. Those engines are bulletproof, so not a problem.

So, save $500 on the engine, then spend a bit less than that on a new cam and the recommended lifters and springs, and you will have a really nice engine cheap.

Thanks for the awesome reply! do you have a link to that cam you are talking about? I think I'm going to do exactly what you suggested.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

Thanks for the awesome reply! do you have a link to that cam you are talking about? I think I'm going to do exactly what you suggested.

It's an awesome cam. I can't take credit for the idea, Sean Murphy at SMI Carburetors turned me on to it. Here's the cam spec page:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=95&sb=2

For the numbers I gave above, you need to use a dual-plane manifold (like Edelbrock 2101) and headers (like Hooker 2453 for a K10). You can keep the Qjet, just rebuild it and, while you have it off, epoxy the casting plugs so they don't leak. Cliff Ruggles has a book on that.
How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet...

If there's already a third-party carb on it, like the Edelbrock 1406 or the Holley, that's OK too. Any carb properly tuned is better than any other carb that isn't, so spend your time and money learning your carb and tuning it properly.

I actually went with the 12-300-4 cam, again with the dual-plane manifold and headers, which is 275 hp at 4000 and 422 lbft at 2500 rpm, so I gave up horsepower above 4000 rpm (which I would never use) for even more torque, which in Alaska might be even better.

My bro spent 27 years in Anchorage at UAA, and I drove up there and back from Chicago before the Alcan was paved. Went up to Dawson City, then took the Top of the World Highway over to Taylor Highway and back down to the Alcan. That was basically a goat trail in 1972. And the road to Circle was no picnic either back then, though it was much better than the trip west out of Dawson City!

Anyway, if you go with the 12-300-4, it has lower lift, so you can keep the same lifters and springs (as long as the engine has *never* been run); just change the camshaft and you're done. The lower lift means lower stresses and longer valvetrain life, and it is a perfect cam for towing stuff or carrying heavy loads or campers or whatever. Also drives great day-to-day, with a horrific pull out of the hole.

Here's the cam spec page on the 12-300-4.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=70&sb=2

[rich weyand]

BTW, if you don't go with the dual plane manifold and headers (I know all about shipping charges to Alaska!) you will still get a tremendous performance improvement with either of those cams, you just won't get the full numbers I quoted above.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

It's an awesome cam. I can't take credit for the idea, Sean Murphy at SMI Carburetors turned me on to it. Here's the cam spec page:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=95&sb=2

For the numbers I gave above, you need to use a dual-plane manifold (like Edelbrock 2101) and headers (like Hooker 2453 for a K10). You can keep the Qjet, just rebuild it and, while you have it off, epoxy the casting plugs so they don't leak. Cliff Ruggles has a book on that.
How to Rebuild and Modify Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors (S-a Design): Cliff Ruggles: 9781932494181: Amazon.com: Books


If there's already a third-party carb on it, like the Edelbrock 1406 or the Holley, that's OK too. Any carb properly tuned is better than any other carb that isn't, so spend your time and money learning your carb and tuning it properly.

I actually went with the 12-300-4 cam, again with the dual-plane manifold and headers, which is 275 hp at 4000 and 422 lbft at 2500 rpm, so I gave up horsepower above 4000 rpm (which I would never use) for even more torque, which in Alaska might be even better.

My bro spent 27 years in Anchorage at UAA, and I drove up there and back from Chicago before the Alcan was paved. Went up to Dawson City, then took the Top of the World Highway over to Taylor Highway and back down to the Alcan. That was basically a goat trail in 1972. And the road to Circle was no picnic either back then, though it was much better than the trip west out of Dawson City!

Anyway, if you go with the 12-300-4, it has lower lift, so you can keep the same lifters and springs (as long as the engine has *never* been run); just change the camshaft and you're done. The lower lift means lower stresses and longer valvetrain life, and it is a perfect cam for towing stuff or carrying heavy loads or campers or whatever. Also drives great day-to-day, with a horrific pull out of the hole.

Here's the cam spec page on the 12-300-4.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=70&sb=2

Thanks again for the great information. I already had that manifold and headers in mind. That drive sounds awesome. I have only been in alaska for about a year and a half. I will most likely be stealing your ideas haha!

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

Thanks again for the great information. I already had that manifold and headers in mind. That drive sounds awesome. I have only been in alaska for about a year and a half. I will most likely be stealing your ideas haha!

Steal away! I think you'll be really happy with that engine with a cam swap.

[Alaskaskiff]

Call Carlyle or Linden transport. Have the engine shipped to their Seattle depots and barged up.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by Alaskaskiff

Call Carlyle or Linden transport. Have the engine shipped to their Seattle depots and barged up.

I didn't think of that. but i have been looking around some more. I found this engine http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-350-32...item2ed2d3f705
any thoughts?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Alaskaskiff

Call Carlyle or Linden transport. Have the engine shipped to their Seattle depots and barged up.

If you do that, then buy the engine at Summit. Free shipping to Seattle.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

I didn't think of that. but i have been looking around some more. I found this engine http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-350-32...item2ed2d3f705
any thoughts?

351 lbft of torque? Kinda anemic, ain't it? Ignore the horsepower numbers. Horsepower gets the headlines, but you drive torque.

And they don't say at what RPM the torque comes in, which makes a huge difference. No torque curves on their website, so hard to say what you're getting. You might want to call and ask them what torque converter stall speed they recommend for this engine. Don't give them any hint why you're asking other than you need to plan your install. If they say anything higher than 1400-1600 rpm, then the torque comes in higher than you want in a truck IMO. And higher stall speeds are tough on transmissions.

Note that it's a used block that's been rebuilt. Which is OK I guess, if it's been re-worked properly, all the passages cleaned out completely, etc.

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Originally Posted by winningz

trying to find a good choice for a crate engine. most places don't ship to alaska or the shipping is crazy.
I have found this Amazon.com: Genuine GM 12499529 Economy Performance Engine: Automotive
what do you guys think? any suggestions?
thanks in advance.

We have that engine in stock at ALASKA SALES & SERVICE here in Anchorage. I work there in the parts dept. I'll p.m. you the price if you want it.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

351 lbft of torque? Kinda anemic, ain't it? Ignore the horsepower numbers. Horsepower gets the headlines, but you drive torque.

And they don't say at what RPM the torque comes in, which makes a huge difference. No torque curves on their website, so hard to say what you're getting. You might want to call and ask them what torque converter stall speed they recommend for this engine. Don't give them any hint why you're asking other than you need to plan your install. If they say anything higher than 1400-1600 rpm, then the torque comes in higher than you want in a truck IMO. And higher stall speeds are tough on transmissions.

Note that it's a used block that's been rebuilt. Which is OK I guess, if it's been re-worked properly, all the passages cleaned out completely, etc.

I am still leaning towards the engine from amazon/cam swap idea. Just thought i'd throw another idea out there. Was driving to work today and my engine shut off. Good thing the speed limit was only 25 mhp haha. Hopefully she can hold on for a lil longer.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by BLE 'BURBAN

We have that engine in stock at ALASKA SALES & SERVICE here in Anchorage. I work there in the parts dept. I'll p.m. you the price if you want it.

feel free to pm me.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by BLE 'BURBAN

We have that engine in stock at ALASKA SALES & SERVICE here in Anchorage. I work there in the parts dept. I'll p.m. you the price if you want it.

Hey, BLE 'BURBAN, you got the GM #10067353 in stock as well?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

I am still leaning towards the engine from amazon/cam swap idea. Just thought i'd throw another idea out there. Was driving to work today and my engine shut off. Good thing the speed limit was only 25 mhp haha. Hopefully she can hold on for a lil longer.

Depending on the price of shipping, and what BLE 'BURBAN's outfit wants for the 350/290hp engine, you might be better off costwise getting the 350/290hp and swapping the cam in it. The 350/260hp and the 350/290hp engine are the same other than the cam.

Best is if they have the GM 10067353 350/260hp engine in stock. Might be a better deal than Amazon will give you shipping one up from the lower 48.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Depending on the price of shipping, and what BLE 'BURBAN's outfit wants for the 350/290hp engine, you might be better off costwise getting the 350/290hp and swapping the cam in it. The 350/260hp and the 350/290hp engine are the same other than the cam.

Best is if they have the GM 10067353 350/260hp engine in stock. Might be a better deal than Amazon will give you shipping one up from the lower 48.

Hey rich do you have a build thread or any pics of your truck? Would love to check it out.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

Hey rich do you have a build thread or any pics of your truck? Would love to check it out.

No, but I did a bunch of write-ups of different projects over the last several years on another forum, FSC (whose Classics section seems inactive now).

Here's some of those threads, the ones that are the most detailed, or most useful, or have the most pics. My bio here has a pic, too, I think, but here's one in my driveway this past winter just for grins.



http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ick-dirty.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...d-headers.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...er-review.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...tor-fixed.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...tall-pics.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...e-55a-94a.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...connector.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ing-fluid.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...rt-review.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...n-pix-how.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...-mods-pix.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...10-photos.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...oobs-rcsb.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...placement.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...s-install.html

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

No, but I did a bunch of write-ups of different projects over the last several years on another forum, FSC (whose Classics section seems inactive now).

Here's some of those threads, the ones that are the most detailed, or most useful, or have the most pics. My bio here has a pic, too, I think, but here's one in my driveway this past winter just for grins.



http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ick-dirty.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...d-headers.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...er-review.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...tor-fixed.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...tall-pics.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...e-55a-94a.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...connector.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...ing-fluid.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...rt-review.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...n-pix-how.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...-mods-pix.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...10-photos.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...oobs-rcsb.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...placement.html

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/g...s-install.html

Looks great man! Have you had it for a while? This is my first truck.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by winningz

Looks great man! Have you had it for a while? This is my first truck.

Just over four years. My first truck, too. Had a couple Safari vans due to family, kids, and stuff, but now, with the kids out of the house, this is my first truck. I love it, and keep tinkering with it. My wife calls it "the other woman".

[winningz]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Just over four years. My first truck, too. Had a couple Safari vans due to family, kids, and stuff, but now, with the kids out of the house, this is my first truck. I love it, and keep tinkering with it. My wife calls it "the other woman".

Haha my wife doesn't like it at all! Hopefully I can learn a little bit because I've never tried to fix a vehicle up like this. I've noticed that it loves to eat money haha.

[66Submarine]

Originally Posted by winningz

Was driving to work today and my engine shut off. Good thing the speed limit was only 25 mhp haha. Hopefully she can hold on for a lil longer.

JMO, but normally engine problems=non-operational until you work on it. Timing chain skipping a tooth, dropped valves, spun bearings, etc. are what I would call engine problems. Sounds like you are probably having ignition or fuel/carb problems (or something like that), FWIW.

[BLE 'BURBAN]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Hey, BLE 'BURBAN, you got the GM #10067353 in stock as well?

I'll check tomorrow at work and let ya know when i get home.

[winningz]

Originally Posted by 66Submarine

JMO, but normally engine problems=non-operational until you work on it. Timing chain skipping a tooth, dropped valves, spun bearings, etc. are what I would call engine problems. Sounds like you are probably having ignition or fuel/carb problems (or something like that), FWIW.

Thanks for the advice man!