Any tricks with harmonic balancer removal?

[Jobe72]

I need to replace the timing chain cover gasket on my 72 gmc with the 350.
I'm going to replace the water pump and timing gears while I"m doing this.

Any tricks for removing the harmonic balancer? I have a 3 bolt puller. Engine will stay in the truck.

Thanks.

[MrGoodpliers]

I like to put a large nut on the end of my puller so the threads in the crankshaft don't get messed up.

[MrGoodpliers]

To be clear, the nut is not threaded onto the puller, it is smaller than that. The round end of the puller rides in the hole of the nut and the nut spans the threads in the crankshaft.

[Alex Hayley]

When I had to pull my damper and did not have the tool, I would go to autozone or whatever store that rents tools and rent the correct tool for the job. There is simply NOTHING more annoying than breaking something that could have been avoided by using the correct tool.

[leddzepp]

you can get the proper tool at autozone, etc thru a loan program. leave a deposit, when you return the tool, you get your deposit back, so it is free.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Jobe72]

I have the proper tool and bolts, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any tips or tricks to it...havn't worked on a SBC in a long time.

[eightbanger]

I used the same bolt that held my balancer on, once I'd removed the bolt I pulled the large thick steel washer out, then put the bolt back and tightened it all the way back into the end of the crank, the puller then used that as it's pushing surface...worked perfectly.

[68gmsee]

Just as an fyi: If you're going to leave the radiator in place use something to protect it in case a tool slips. It's amazing how easy it is to nick it. I once dropped a wrench and it bounced of the fan and nicked the radiator. Had to remove it, take it to a shop and it cost me $40 to resolder and pressure test it.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Jobe72

I have the proper tool and bolts, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any tips or tricks to it...havn't worked on a SBC in a long time.

Once you get the balancer pulled using a puller have a close look at the surface where the front main seal rides, if there is a fairly substantial groove worn in from the seal you can buy a product called a Speedy Sleeve, its a thin metal sleeve that can be driven over the shaft to give the seal a new surface to ride on, and it comes with a new seal thats sized to match the new sleeved surface.

Oh, if your planning on doing the timing chain you'll also need to drop the oil pan as well as there are some metal tabs on the timing cover that "grab" behind the oil pan, you need the clearance to get the cover out. this of course opens a can of worms on weather you should replace the oil pan gasket too as doing so with the engine installed is a pita, or, try and get away without replacing it. I believe there are some aftermarket timing covers that allow removal of the cover without pulling the oil pan again for fine tuning timing advance, but i have also been told that some of them do leak..

[Jobe72]

This is what I was hoping not to do. How far down do I need to remove the oil pan to remove the timing cover? A little or off? I was hoping to leave the oil pan alone!

[MrGoodpliers]

You'll have to loosen the oil pan. Remove all bolts except the rear two, just loosen them a bit. You should be able to get the timing cover off without harming the oil pan gasket.

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by Jobe72

This is what I was hoping not to do. How far down do I need to remove the oil pan to remove the timing cover? A little or off? I was hoping to leave the oil pan alone!

MrGoodpliers has you covered on what to do. It's really not too big of a deal since you already drained the fluids, it's just pulling out the bolts and loosing the back 2 then letting the pan down. This will actually save the pan gasket given it's in decent shape...if it's not, it's the best time to change it!

[1969~C-20~Heavy-Half]

ALSO IF YOU PLAN ON REMOVING THE OIL PAN IN ACCORDANCE TO GET THE TIMEING CHAIN COVER TO SEAL CORRECTLY. IF YOUR TRUCK IS A 2WD YOU WILL HAVE TO PULL THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS AND JACK THE ENGINE UP SEVERAL INCHES IN ORDER TO GET CLEARANCE FOR THE PAN TO SAFELY COME OUT!! THE PAN WILL HIT THE BOTTOM END OF THE CRANKSHAFT..