Time estimate to shorten LWB frame

[FirstGen]

After reading the article in the FAQ forum several times I've decided to shorted my frame. I am contemplating taking the truck to a shop or trying to do this at home a hiring a mobile welder come and actually do the welding. Anyone that has done this before can you give me a time estimate on this job? I will pull the bed obviously but will still have the cab on it.

If you are local and have experience with this work shoot me a quote to do the actual frame work only. I will take care of all the little stuff, driveshaft, brake lines, etc...

[72MARIO]

If you have the bare frame and it should only take a saturday. That is if you are gog with a grinder I did mine with help from my dad and his brother in less than 5 hours.

[crazy longhorn]

I havent done that job(have chopped some other frames tho).....if you have a coil spring rear suspension, you will need to have the cab off the frame, as the cut needs to be made under the cab as far as welding time, it shouldnt be too bad. my guess is a good guy will get you 1 1/2-2 hrs, if you have all the layout work done. The layout is the worst part......measure 3 times & cut once! you should do a "step cut" on the rails, with at least a plate on the inside(that way you can grind the outside smooth ). I like to box the rails on the inside.....if you figure a foot either side the center of the splice, it should be plenty strong! best of luck,crazyL

[FirstGen]

It will not be a bare frame. It will have the cab on the truck but I will unbolt the cab mounts and raise it so I can do the work and re-drill the cab mount.

[crazy longhorn]

Its your truck, so what wrks for you is best.....just my opinion , after seeing 1 cut(the splice is about midway under the cab). I would leave the box on , & remove the cab for the work to be done....like said, its your truck tho.....crazyL H#!! that didnt make any sense , after i thought about it......the d@mn box has to come off to be shortened

[FirstGen]

haha yup.

[Merl4]

There are complete instructions at (www.earlyclassic.com). Go to Tech Articles and you will see (longbed, no-Shortbed, yes).
I had one done for around $400. We took 1 foot from under the cab and 8" from the rear of the frame.
Hope this helps.

MCR

[glock35ipsc]

If you follow my FAQ post, it will take about 5-6 hours. That is shortning a bare frame though. Obviously, doing it with the cab on will add time. You won't be able to turn the frame on it's side to make welding easier. I did mine in just under 10 hours total time, but I did some other things to the frame while I was shortening it too.

I highly recommend some sort of step-cut method, either like the way I did it or ebfabman's method, but would not recommend doing a straight or slash cut like Early Classic's method. The latter will work, but the step method is much stronger and easier to align.

If you: have the cuts made, ground clean and slightly beveled; have the two halves mated together, clamped and aligned; have the fish plates (reinforcement plates) already cut and prepped, it should take a good welder only an hour or so to buzz it up.

Just be sure that once the joints are tacked, measure again to be sure everything is square before you let them go to town welding it up.

It will be a little more difficult doing it with the cab on, but definately not out of the question. Go for it!!!!

Almost forgot, go TO THIS LINK and print this!

P.S. - Feel free to PM me at any time if you have questions along the way!

[FirstGen]

Excellent. I think I will try to tackle it myself and have a welder come by to weld it all up. I really could not justify spending that much money on something that I think I can do myself.

I guess the only question I have is that after I remove the front most pair of bed mounts does that leave the rest in the correct position without further modification?

Thanks!

[glock35ipsc]

Yup! The rest of the bed mounts are in the correct spot. You will only need to move the rear cab mount back 12".

[1972C10]

You can take the pieces you cut off the rear flip them over and set them on top of the oposite frame rail and use as a stencil to mark where you need to make a new rear bolt hole.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 1972C10

You can take the pieces you cut off the rear flip them over and set them on top of the oposite frame rail and use as a stencil to mark where you need to make a new rear bolt hole.

Then, when your done w/that, you can cut them down the middle & use them as reinforcement plates for the inside of your now shorter frame.

How much would a short wheel base frame w/a . . ..... boxed trailing arm crossmember (w/4" dia exhaust holes); homemade c-sections (w/reinforcements added to top of the frame rails; modified stock shock crossmember/trailing arms (set-up for coil-overs); sandblasted & DP 90'd (but some burn from later welding) be worth $$?

[1972C10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Then, when your done w/that, you can cut them down the middle & use them as reinforcement plates for the inside of your now shorter frame.

How much would a short wheel base frame w/a . . ..... boxed trailing arm crossmember (w/4" dia exhaust holes); homemade c-sections (w/reinforcements added to top of the frame rails; modified stock shock crossmember/trailing arms (set-up for coil-overs); sandblasted & DP 90'd (but some burn from later welding) be worth $$?

I belive id rather have some 1/4 or 3/8 steel plate or flatbar. But i guess anything welded over the joint would do ..

I have 1/2 on mine Not really needed but its what i had.

[SCOTI]

Yeah, 1/4" would be stronger but I always thought using rosett welded end pieces as the inner reinforcement 'C' plates & a diamond shaped fish plate for the outside of the frame would be pretty strong ..... and free.

[FirstGen]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Then, when your done w/that, you can cut them down the middle & use them as reinforcement plates for the inside of your now shorter frame.

How much would a short wheel base frame w/a . . ..... boxed trailing arm crossmember (w/4" dia exhaust holes); homemade c-sections (w/reinforcements added to top of the frame rails; modified stock shock crossmember/trailing arms (set-up for coil-overs); sandblasted & DP 90'd (but some burn from later welding) be worth $$?

Are you asking me? I have no idea!

[SCOTI]

Well, I was asking both you & in general.

I see swb frames/rolling chassis listed from time to time for around $300-500 bucks in various conditions. I know I paid $300 for an untouched/original condition swb frame & was just curious too see what others might feel a modified swb frame to be worth.

The frame mentioned is the one from my RestoRod67 project. I'm starting from scratch w/another frame I have because I'm looking for a much more refined look upon completion. Not a show only ride, but something that looks like it could be.

I was thinking that maybe for the price & work involved you would be better off buying a swb & swapping your existing parts over. I would say when welding on the frame (when shortening), I would want everything as true as possible & that seems extra difficult w/the cab still on the truck. What have the estimates looked like for this job from a mobile welding service if you don't mind me asking?

[FirstGen]

I haven't called any yet but generally any kind of MIG or ARC welding is $50-60 an hour from previous experience. I know I have had tractors repaired and thats what they charged me.

Honestly swapping to a short wheel base frame would probably be the best method. However, the effort to swap everything over would be greatly inhanced also. If I had the time and resources to swap the frame out I would definatly consider it...