Progress - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Russell · 05-28-2005, 03:43 AM

Getting closer!

However, I am screwed as far as the serpentine setup goes. My TPI intake will not work with it at all.

Not only will the base not fit, but the throttle body will hit the tensioner smack dab in the center. So I guess this setup is for sale, and it is time to find a setup off a 4.3 or a 3rd gen Camaro...

I'll post more pictures when I've got things figured out.

Russell · 05-29-2005, 01:45 AM

Alright, now I've got something to show you guys

Tell me what ya think!

longhorn71 · 05-29-2005, 01:52 AM

lookin good Russ

TrainD5115 · 05-29-2005, 02:06 AM

Now that is professional grade!

Hoods69BadBowTie · 05-29-2005, 02:07 AM

Ya, progress is looking very good. What all else do you need to get finished up and squared away?

Russell · 05-29-2005, 02:12 AM

As far as rust repair goes, I gotta patch the pass side floor pan, and coat it. Gotta sand down and self etch prime the roof / some other surface rusted areas, then shoot the cab with epoxy primer, then she'll be good to go back on. Frame needs the rear to be sand blasted, or wirebrushed. I haven't figured that out yet, its tough getting the angle grinder between the frame rails.

As far as parts go, I need a two peice aluminum serpentine belt setup with the power steering pump, AC compressor and tensioner. I need to get my divorced t-case here, get driveshafts made (I am gonna run it with a 2wd shaft until I can afford the driveshafts, at 200 a pop, I need to spread the cost out a bit) and I need a 2wd tranny crossmember with the high arches on either side to clear the exhaust. Any pre 79 truck should have one. Also need brake lines from the splice under the cab to the rear end and the hard lines on the rear end. Also need a driver's side fender

Things to do yet include installing and plumbing the EFI burb tank, installing the TPI electrical harness, change the rear drums out to the HD drums from my old 14 bolt and a couple other small things

I can see myself with it running by the end of the week if all goes as I want it to

bigarmzz · 05-29-2005, 05:22 AM

man, that looks really sweeeeet!

what did you paint your frame with?...that dont look like a spray can job...

good job russell!

bigblock73 · 05-29-2005, 10:13 AM

Russell, your progress looks super....good job man!!

Keep us updated with your progress, can't wait to see it all come together.

Russell · 05-29-2005, 12:45 PM

I coated the frame with a product called Zero Rust. My only complaint is that the stuff dries too quick in the sun, and doesn't smooth out :P

I'll probally give the axle and such another coat just to try and smooth it all out a bit

I am VERY impressed with it's durability though! I accidentally bumped the top of the frame with the bobcat bucket, and it didn't even scratch it! Its a sort of a softer coating that bends and stuff to absorb impacts. I am gonna buy another gallon so I can do the under side of my bed, fenders etc. The half gallon I've used has coated most of the bottom of my cab, and most of the front suspension

I can definitely finish the cab and the frame with the single gallon. Box and stuff will need another gallon :P

Russell · 06-01-2005, 11:54 PM

Got my cab on tonight, dang its tall

4 and a half coke cans of clearance

82c10 · 06-02-2005, 12:00 AM

if you don't mind me askin, where did you get the zero rust stuff, and how much $$$ did it cost?

Russell · 06-02-2005, 12:22 AM

I bought it off a forum member for about 45 bucks shipped, if I recall right...

You can find a distributer at www.zerorust.com. Just gotta email them, and they'll let you know where to find it

05-28-2005, 03:43 AM	#1
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Progress Getting closer! However, I am screwed as far as the serpentine setup goes. My TPI intake will not work with it at all. Not only will the base not fit, but the throttle body will hit the tensioner smack dab in the center. So I guess this setup is for sale, and it is time to find a setup off a 4.3 or a 3rd gen Camaro... I'll post more pictures when I've got things figured out. Attached Images __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 05-28-2005 at 03:46 AM.

05-29-2005, 01:45 AM	#2
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Alright, now I've got something to show you guys Tell me what ya think! Attached Images __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

05-29-2005, 02:06 AM	#4
TrainD5115 North Coast, baby! Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Toledo, OH Posts: 437	Now that is professional grade! __________________ Brad 79 Scottsdale C20 350/350 3.73's Still running full CA smog gear!

05-29-2005, 02:07 AM	#5
Hoods69BadBowTie Chevys Kick A$$ Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Zootown, MT Posts: 12,699	Ya, progress is looking very good. What all else do you need to get finished up and squared away? __________________ HOODS is what I answer too -'79, '77, '88 Pickup Sold, '85 Camaro, '83 T/A, '81,'83,'90 K5 Blazer All Sold -'79 3/4 ton "Big Yellow Bananna" Lifted 4spd. 39.5 TSL Swampers, The money Pit -'86 K5 Blazer Silverado 6.2 4" lift 35"s -'95 Ext. Cab Shorty 4" Tuff Country rolling 35" M/T's -'83 Monte Carlo T-Tops. 126,500 Original Miles -LATER I would rather push a Chevy then drive a ford!!

05-29-2005, 02:12 AM	#6
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	As far as rust repair goes, I gotta patch the pass side floor pan, and coat it. Gotta sand down and self etch prime the roof / some other surface rusted areas, then shoot the cab with epoxy primer, then she'll be good to go back on. Frame needs the rear to be sand blasted, or wirebrushed. I haven't figured that out yet, its tough getting the angle grinder between the frame rails. As far as parts go, I need a two peice aluminum serpentine belt setup with the power steering pump, AC compressor and tensioner. I need to get my divorced t-case here, get driveshafts made (I am gonna run it with a 2wd shaft until I can afford the driveshafts, at 200 a pop, I need to spread the cost out a bit) and I need a 2wd tranny crossmember with the high arches on either side to clear the exhaust. Any pre 79 truck should have one. Also need brake lines from the splice under the cab to the rear end and the hard lines on the rear end. Also need a driver's side fender Things to do yet include installing and plumbing the EFI burb tank, installing the TPI electrical harness, change the rear drums out to the HD drums from my old 14 bolt and a couple other small things I can see myself with it running by the end of the week if all goes as I want it to __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

05-29-2005, 01:52 AM	#3
longhorn71 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: CANADA Posts: 1,681	lookin good Russ

05-29-2005, 05:22 AM	#7
bigarmzz Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Elkins, West Virginia Posts: 2,542	man, that looks really sweeeeet! what did you paint your frame with?...that dont look like a spray can job... good job russell! __________________ 1987 350 TBI lowered 5/7 Last edited by bigarmzz; 05-29-2005 at 05:24 AM.

05-29-2005, 10:13 AM	#8
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,826	Russell, your progress looks super....good job man!! Keep us updated with your progress, can't wait to see it all come together. __________________ Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale

05-29-2005, 12:45 PM	#9
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I coated the frame with a product called Zero Rust. My only complaint is that the stuff dries too quick in the sun, and doesn't smooth out :P I'll probally give the axle and such another coat just to try and smooth it all out a bit I am VERY impressed with it's durability though! I accidentally bumped the top of the frame with the bobcat bucket, and it didn't even scratch it! Its a sort of a softer coating that bends and stuff to absorb impacts. I am gonna buy another gallon so I can do the under side of my bed, fenders etc. The half gallon I've used has coated most of the bottom of my cab, and most of the front suspension I can definitely finish the cab and the frame with the single gallon. Box and stuff will need another gallon :P __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) Last edited by Russell; 05-29-2005 at 12:47 PM.

06-01-2005, 11:54 PM	#10
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Got my cab on tonight, dang its tall 4 and a half coke cans of clearance Attached Images __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

06-02-2005, 12:00 AM	#11
82c10 needin' money Join Date: May 2005 Location: Chickasha, Oklahoma Posts: 1,106	if you don't mind me askin, where did you get the zero rust stuff, and how much $$$ did it cost?

06-02-2005, 12:22 AM	#12
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I bought it off a forum member for about 45 bucks shipped, if I recall right... You can find a distributer at www.zerorust.com. Just gotta email them, and they'll let you know where to find it __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)



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