Fastfreddys 454ss

[fredscarryall]

Installed the removable rear wing today

[fredscarryall]

Put in a new dash bezel from lmc truck. Bought a new headlight switch and dash light dimmer switch off amazon. My high/low beam switch broke in my column and while I was in there I replace the turn signal lever. I had to take the entire top part of the column apart just to get to the high/low beam switch. It took almost 4 hours and fought every step of the way. No wonder the previous owner never replaced it. Why did GM make something so complicated.

[hutcholdschool]

All the updates are awesome. Really like your truck. Thanks for posting.

[fredscarryall]

Installed a new gas door, carbon fiber door and tailgate handle. Next will be a custom grille

[fredscarryall]

Custom grille

[fredscarryall]

Sold the cowl induction hood and went with a ram air. The only difference Is I am going to make the air inlet fuctional. Like Trikey Air and Billets Redx

[fredscarryall]

Trial fit the ram air cowl hood today. Now it’s time to cut a hole in the front scoop and make the ram air functional

[arrg]

What paint are you using?

[jjzepplin]

That's nice!

[fredscarryall]

The paint is a limco single stage urethane

[mingoman]

Coming along nicely Fred!

[SCOTI]

I've been looking @ this style of hood to replace my damaged one. Steel hood? Manufacturer?

[fredscarryall]

I bought the hood off summit racing. It was $319 with an extra $99 for freight. Best priced hood anywhere and they fit really well. It’s all steel. Does not come with a spring or release. Make sure you save those before you hall your damaged hood off. What they don’t show or tell your is this hood comes with a plastic ram air intake insert. But if you want to cut the intake out, the best tool I found is an air reciprocating saw. I added a pic of the back of hood

[hutcholdschool]

Beautiful work. Your truck looks great.

[fredscarryall]

Would not let me remove this post

[fredscarryall]

This might bore some of you. But I desided to send out my tbi to tbiparts for a rebuild off ebay. I had the throttle blade base plate bored to 54mm, thinner blades, and removed the adjustable internal regulator. Since I have no way to adjust the fuel pressure, since I removed the internal tbi regulator. I added an external fuel regulator with a gauge. I really did want to spend $150 on a aeromtive 13301, $150 on earl an fittings and a $30 gauge. I decided to buy a universal adjustable fuel regulator off amazon for $55. There were a lot of good reviews on this regulator. But the only think is you have to buy better o,-ring for the 3/8 fitting into the regulator and the fuel lines included in the kit are to short and are garbage. So you need to buy about 5 feet of braided fuel line.The only two fitting I had to buy was for the 5/16 metal fuel line to 6an and a fitting from the return on the tbi to the return. If the adjustable fuel regulator sucks. I’ll just Buy an aeromotive regulator and still be money ahead.

[fredscarryall]

I had a hard time incorporating the fuel lines and return line to a external regulator while using the factory tbi.I ran tons of dead head fuel regulator in cars and trucks with carbs. But never for a fuel injection system with a return line. Im sure a lot of others may be wondering how to run the fuel and return line. Got it figured out thanks to nastyz.Here is a diagram on how I ran it to save money. I mounted it up front so it’s easy to adjust. I decided to keep the factory fuel inlet line that comes from the fuel pump to the tbi. I also bought a mechanical fuel gauge instead of using the liquid filled gauge that comes in the kit. Because when the liquid in the gauge gets hot from the engine heat. The gauge can be off by 20 psi. Here is a diagram I drew out and of few pics of how and where I mounted it. I won’t get my tbi back till next week. The last picture is a before pic for reference.

[fredscarryall]

Also found aluminum radiator for our 88 to 98 trucks. I have used these radiators on 3 builds with 180 degree thermostat and the temperature never got above 185 on 90 degree days cruising at 5 mph. Made in the USA. Champion radiator makes two sizes that have transmission and oil cooler lines ( but you can be plug them off if you have a manual trans or don’t have a built in oil cooler),includes heater core line out. Also depending on which one you pick.They make standard and extended fill neck.The cc1520 with a 34” wide core and a 40 5/8 overall and a cc622 with a 28” core and 20 1/4 overall.You can save a lot of my money with free shipping buying the radiators from ebay for $200. Way better then griffins $750 just for the radiator. Champion says they price match but I didn’t ask.If you buy the cc1520, champion does not make a dual 16” fan shroud so you have to buy the shroud off ebay for $100. If you use the cc622 with the 28” core you have to buy the 14” dual fan shroud from champion radiator ( but will need minor mods to fit) Make sure you buy a temp sensor relay kit, unless you want to run a toggle. But the dual fan kit 170 off/ 185 on needs to be bought from summit racing, jegs, ebay or amazon. I’m saving the old radiator, shroud and fan. So it could be put back to stock

[Terrick down Under]

Have you tried the TBI yet? eager to see how it goes......Planning on doing the same thing and punching my 454 to 496.

[fredscarryall]

The rebuilt tbi runs a lot better now. I think my bushings on the throttle shaft were a little worn out even with my low miles.The tbi was prone to this when I worked at a chevy dealership in the early 90s. It has Better throttle response, starts up a lot faster and idles smoother. With the 3 lbs of fuel pressure increase I notice a slight power increase. I would recommend removing the tbi internal fuel regulator and putting in an external one with a Manuel gauge just because it’s a lot easier and quicker to adjust. Whenever I rebuild my bottom end I want to do a 496 also. Are you planning on Boring out your tbi to 54 mm and having tbiparts rebuild it.

[Terrick down Under]

Yes, i am looking for a used TBI & computer in the US, have it rebuilt and machined, upgrade program and then send them down here. Am trying to get it done by Xmas time, with a bit of luck.

[fredscarryall]

The brakes are good. But I want it to stop like a Porsche. So I’m doing a hydroboost conversion. It’s pretty easy finding part. Oreillys and autozone both stock the hoses and hydroboost. They made factory hydroboost from 88 to 98. So you just type in booster for the hydro boost and power steering for the hoses. I think I have about $50 in hoses, 3/8 barbed tee, bulk power steering hose and hose clamps. Then another $175 in a reman hydrobooster. I also bought a used $40 brake lever off ebay.

[fredscarryall]

Here’s a factory diagram of a hydrboost set up. The first thing I need to do is move the factory mount for the booster rod on the brake arm up. Because factory hydroboost arms are impossible to find. brakes arms for vacuum boosters are a dime a dozen and way cheaper.

[fredscarryall]

Here’s a few pic of the supplies needed and the hydroboost mocked up. I have to hog out the mounting holes for the stud. Theres a little flashing from the casting in the holes. Then the master cylinder will sit flush up against the hydro boost. Out of time to work on it today. Will finish it up on Monday.

[Terrick down Under]

Great progress!