Aluminum Radiator ????'s

[chevjayfsd]

What is the best aluminum radiator for our trucks? We have been having leaks in our radiator and we have just decided to put a new radiator in. We have been looking at the Be Cool radiators and don't know if they are reliable.
Thanks
Jason

[lofly'a]

got one in my gto, a Be Cool that is. used the generic kind and it fit great. gtos before 67 had a narrow space between frame and only came with the inefficent top tank radiator from the factory. it were plagued with overheating before i added the 29" wide generic crossflow unit and i have'nt had a problem since.

[hugger67]

I used a universal Griffen radiator from summit fit almost perfect had to grind about 1/8 inch off top for upper radiator mounts otherwise bolted right in,

[sbc421]

BE Cool is very close to the top of the food chain in the world of aftermarket radiators and they cost plenty too. If you want one that will fit perfect use BE Cool Part Number 134-62058. Summit or Jegs will be the cheapest place around to get it. Sells for $549.99 at Jegs.

[Quick68c10]

im young and still learning so why do you want a be cool radiator i know what they are but why i just have a 4 core from the local radiator shop for 110$ and it fit perfect so what is the point of spending about $400+ for a special one?

[Longhorn Man]

Aluminum has better heat disapation that copper or plastic. (alot of new rads have plastic tanks)
What that essentually means, govven a copper rad, and an alluminm rad at the same temperature, the alluminum one will cool off was quicker.

[Blue68]

Sorry to say guys, but aluminum radiators do not provide any benefit over brass/copper when it comes to heat dissapation. Copper/brass actually has better energy transferance than aluminum. HOWEVER, aluminum radiators weigh consiberably less (as much as 2/3s) and are stronger. It is the strength that allows aluminum radiators to have considerably larger tubes. So essentially a 2 row (1-1/4" tubes) aluminum is equivilant to 4 rows (1/2" tubes) of brass/copper in cooling capacity.

Newer vehicles use the aluminum/plastic radiators due to the weight savings (can you say C.A.F.E.) and strength. When you toss in well designed air flow and electric fans (cooling is usually not a problem at speed) modern day cars cool very well. Granted, most make minimal horsepower and the aluminum blocks/heads help as well.

Be Cool and Griffin make excellent products. But make sure you are purchasing it for the right reason. If you just want one, by all means go for it. Just don't expect it to solve an overheating problem any better than a new brass/copper unit in the same vehicle.

My .05 cents.

[Lippyp]

Be careful what you use to wash your truck with if you have an aluminium radiator. My local radiator specialist told me when I took a dissolving 6 year old aluminium radiator from my wifes car in to size a replacement that the former owner had probably cleaned the car using industrial truck wash detergent, apparently if you don't wash it off the aluminium completely it dissolves it in short order. This radiator just dissolved away along the bottom into white powder and sprang multiple leaks.

Now for the science bit!... Aluminium is one of the most reactive metals around, it will oxidise away to nothing if it gets the chance. The only reason it lasts so well is it forms a stable coating of aluminium oxide which stops the oxygen getting to the metal. If you add something that stops this oxide layer sticking it just oxidises away to dust. The chemicals in some detergents may have this effect.

So the moral of the story is if you have an aluminium radiator make sure you rinse well after washing! (sounds like a laundry detergent advert!!) and maybe also don't wash when the radiator is hot as the chemicals may dry on the rad before you can rinse them away.

Phil

[crazy longhorn]

I wont go into heat dissapation issues, as i really dont know that much about that subject. I will say however, in the tight compartment swaps, such as a V8 s -10,or ranger I have found that an aluminum rad will solve the cooling problems that a same sized NEW copper/brass radiator couldnt. I have done a couple of these swaps,& they both had to have the alum radiator. The corvette alum/plastic rad was worth a 20 degree reduction in temp in a buddy's 355 powered S-10, & my SB Chev powered ranger also runs an alum/plastic rad. I run a 4 row copper/brass rad in the longhorn ,& have no trouble keepin it cool with a warmed up 383. I have also run a +.030 455 olds in the truck with the same rad,& would see no more than 210 degrees in stop/go traffic on the hottest day ,then down to 180-185 on the road. both of these engines were in the 400hp range.......if you are pushin 450-500 hp, I think an alum rad would be the way to go. good luck.......Al

[Ed ke6bnl]

Originally posted by crazy longhorn
I wont go into heat dissapation issues, as i really dont know that much about that subject. I will say however, in the tight compartment swaps, such as a V8 s -10,or ranger I have found that an aluminum rad will solve the cooling problems that a same sized NEW copper/brass radiator couldnt. I have done a couple of these swaps,& they both had to have the alum radiator. The corvette alum/plastic rad was worth a 20 degree reduction in temp in a buddy's 355 powered S-10, & my SB Chev powered ranger also runs an alum/plastic rad. I run a 4 row copper/brass rad in the longhorn ,& have no trouble keepin it cool with a warmed up 383. I have also run a +.030 455 olds in the truck with the same rad,& would see no more than 210 degrees in stop/go traffic on the hottest day ,then down to 180-185 on the road. both of these engines were in the 400hp range.......if you are pushin 450-500 hp, I think an alum rad would be the way to go. good luck.......Al

I can not answer this question with much technical response, only that I went with an aluminum radiator for my street rod with dual spal fans from the experience my friend has had with the Griffen Rads in his 514 cu ford crate bb that he installed in his 65 Econoline Van. If he can keep his big block cool in the tight, very tight compared to our monstrous engine bays of 67-72 of his small dog house compartment then its going to work for me. I have seen several of his vehicles all running cool so I went that route. Copper is a better conductor but the large surface area capable with the 1 1/4 oval tubes of the aluminum radiator is what gives it an advantage. not the heat transfer rate. plus they are all aluminum not as in the copper with lead as a brazing material for joint connections. I was also pleased to see that the dual spal fan set up that covers the entire radiator surface has rubber reed valve type flaps along the top and bottom portion of the shroud that will allow for excess presureized air be released at highway speeds. Good luck Ed ke6bnl