R12 or R134 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

71sub · 08-02-2003, 06:08 PM

Went to an A/C shop and they wanted tooooo much $$$$$ to install a compressor, change POA valve, expansion valve, dryer and charge --- we're talking $1k + labor.

Where can I buy the POA & expansion valves ?
How hard are they to remove & intall ?
Should I convert to 134 or keep R12 ?

I know that 134 is not as cold, but WAY cheaper to charge.
Has anyone had bad luck converting to 134 ? What needs to
be done to convert ?

Any help would be appreciated .... thanks !!!!!!

*Phillip Johnson* · 08-02-2003, 06:54 PM

Chico Mobile A/C 530-891-5680.. They are the best in Northern Calif You are about 120 miles from them and well worth the drive. Im going to have them do the A/C in my 71 and Im going 134a. R12 just isnt worth it in the long run. They converted an r12 system a few years back and it was about $700 if I remember. As for cold or not as much as R12.....Well, all I know is that the system worked as well as ever and I would never have to pay $80 a can for freon ever again. For the record, I will be bringing myt truck 255 miles each way to them to do the a/c.. No one in Oregon is worth a crap when it comes to a/c. My 7.5 cents worth

jnelson · 08-02-2003, 07:50 PM

they now make a drop in replacement for R-12 that's just as good, or I have done this before, change the oil and flush it good and then flush it again, you need to get all the old oil out or you will plug up your TXV and Dryer. add oil for R134 and charge with 134. it works good. Flush the system with nitrogen.

ddsmith · 08-02-2003, 08:01 PM

You can find a lot of information at this site and you can also purchase the things your looking for I think. If your not big into purchasing the equipment to do the evacuation and charging maybe you can strike up a deal with an A/C shop to do this for a set fee once you've replaced the equipment. I would suggest you ask this question to the guys at the link. They know a great deal about A/C. http://www.ackits.com/forum/categori...d=3&zb=5031417

heyjoe · 08-02-2003, 08:28 PM

In the same vein as the A/C Kits forum.
Check out The Automotive A/C Bulletin Board.
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard

*Phillip Johnson* · 08-02-2003, 08:45 PM

Changing your system with one of the "flush it and add 134" kits will work great this summer but next year you will be at the a/c shop paying to have everything replaced. ALL your O rings will be gone. Just my opinion

68 Suburban · 08-02-2003, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 71sub

I know that 134 is not as cold, but WAY cheaper to charge.
Has anyone had bad luck converting to 134 ?

My A/C with 134 is blowing 34 degrees. I also have 15lbs or R-12 that I will sell at a reasonable price.

ckenwright · 08-02-2003, 10:34 PM

I just converted the AC on one of my vehicles, I bought a set of adaptors, expansion valve, filter dryer, ester oil, and r-134 a. I put on these items myself had a friend of mine woth the machine hook it up, leak checked it and charged it and it is just as cold as the r-12 was. Some people try to go without changing thier expansion valve, but their temps won't get low enough. Only charge your system to 80% capacity. I think I paid about $150 total.

chewed 71'er · 08-03-2003, 02:59 AM

Last year I tried the 'short-cut' in my 71. Purged the R-12 oil, changed all o-rings, added 134a (ester) oil and freon. Lasted 4 days. The compressor was dragging big time, clutch and belt were both smoking. Lesson learned - duh! Attempt number 2: rebuilt compressor, new reciever/drier, fresh 134a oil and freon. Much better. Cools nicely here in N/W Missouri, but wouldn't know about Phoenix. Just a little more A/C info.

71sub · 08-03-2003, 12:19 PM

Thanks for all the help !

The other A/C sites are pretty helpful ! A lot of information !

I'm going to change the O-rings, expansion valve, dryer --- followed by having the system flushed, checked for leaks, oiled and charged with R-134. Probably install an electric pusher fan on the condensor to help with cooling.

Still not too sure on POA valve and having it checked / replaced !?

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Ev

eraser87 · 08-03-2003, 02:01 PM

we just bought some stuff that is compatable with r12 and r13 , it is called duracool, and is about $30.00 a can .... works great , all you do is add it to your system

Harley03joe · 05-17-2017, 03:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eraser87

we just bought some stuff that is compatable with r12 and r13 , it is called duracool, and is about $30.00 a can .... works great , all you do is add it to your system

Was It R12A ???
Has Anyone Tried That Yet ??
Thanks
Harley03joe

Harley03joe · 05-17-2017, 03:09 AM

Has Anyone Tried R12A Yet ??
Thanks
Harley03joe[/B]

MARKDTN · 05-18-2017, 08:41 AM

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=690182

Andy4639 · 05-18-2017, 12:04 PM

I have done two complete swaps and one retro swap all thee from R-12 to 134-A and I want ever use R-12 again. Anybody who say's R-12 cools better than 134-A doesn't know how to do it right.
My 71 has been done for several years and it blows 38* inside the cab with outside temps 85 above!

The 56 has the classic air sure fit kit and it blows 38* no matter what.

The 64 Impala I did the factory air over to 134-A and it runs 38* I had new lines made and changed all the o rings and flushed it out good.

Vacuuming the system is the key for a long life. Along with using the right o rings and oil. 134-A works as good are better than R-12 and it's safer for the Ozone!
Doing the work is easy as any other mechanic job. Knowing the system and what parts you need is key to a nice swap. I used a newer system in my truck with the accumulator and orffice tube and not the drier. It works great.
The Impala I stayed stock but swapped everything over to 134-A. It's running the drier and expansion valve.

08-02-2003, 06:08 PM	#1
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	R12 or R134 Went to an A/C shop and they wanted tooooo much $$$$$ to install a compressor, change POA valve, expansion valve, dryer and charge --- we're talking $1k + labor. Where can I buy the POA & expansion valves ? How hard are they to remove & intall ? Should I convert to 134 or keep R12 ? I know that 134 is not as cold, but WAY cheaper to charge. Has anyone had bad luck converting to 134 ? What needs to be done to convert ? Any help would be appreciated .... thanks !!!!!! __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

08-02-2003, 07:50 PM	#3
jnelson Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: jacksonville fl. Posts: 56	new refrigerant they now make a drop in replacement for R-12 that's just as good, or I have done this before, change the oil and flush it good and then flush it again, you need to get all the old oil out or you will plug up your TXV and Dryer. add oil for R134 and charge with 134. it works good. Flush the system with nitrogen. __________________ looking for a new project

08-02-2003, 08:01 PM	#4
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	You can find a lot of information at this site and you can also purchase the things your looking for I think. If your not big into purchasing the equipment to do the evacuation and charging maybe you can strike up a deal with an A/C shop to do this for a set fee once you've replaced the equipment. I would suggest you ask this question to the guys at the link. They know a great deal about A/C. http://www.ackits.com/forum/categori...d=3&zb=5031417 __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper

08-02-2003, 08:28 PM	#5
heyjoe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: New Orleans area Posts: 198	In the same vein as the A/C Kits forum. Check out The Automotive A/C Bulletin Board. http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard __________________ '67 C20 small window Fleetside - 250 inline 6 - 3 on the tree - heavy duty clutch, brakes, rear springs - 17.5 wheels w/bias ply tires - AM radio - heater.

08-03-2003, 12:19 PM	#10
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	Thanks for all the help ! The other A/C sites are pretty helpful ! A lot of information ! I'm going to change the O-rings, expansion valve, dryer --- followed by having the system flushed, checked for leaks, oiled and charged with R-134. Probably install an electric pusher fan on the condensor to help with cooling. Still not too sure on POA valve and having it checked / replaced !? I'll let you all know how it turns out. Ev __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

08-02-2003, 06:54 PM	#2
Phillip Johnson Account Suspended Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 1,580	Chico Mobile A/C 530-891-5680.. They are the best in Northern Calif You are about 120 miles from them and well worth the drive. Im going to have them do the A/C in my 71 and Im going 134a. R12 just isnt worth it in the long run. They converted an r12 system a few years back and it was about $700 if I remember. As for cold or not as much as R12.....Well, all I know is that the system worked as well as ever and I would never have to pay $80 a can for freon ever again. For the record, I will be bringing myt truck 255 miles each way to them to do the a/c.. No one in Oregon is worth a crap when it comes to a/c. My 7.5 cents worth

08-02-2003, 08:45 PM	#6
Phillip Johnson Account Suspended Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Grants Pass, Oregon Posts: 1,580	Changing your system with one of the "flush it and add 134" kits will work great this summer but next year you will be at the a/c shop paying to have everything replaced. ALL your O rings will be gone. Just my opinion

08-02-2003, 10:34 PM	#8
ckenwright Registered User Join Date: May 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 104	I just converted the AC on one of my vehicles, I bought a set of adaptors, expansion valve, filter dryer, ester oil, and r-134 a. I put on these items myself had a friend of mine woth the machine hook it up, leak checked it and charged it and it is just as cold as the r-12 was. Some people try to go without changing thier expansion valve, but their temps won't get low enough. Only charge your system to 80% capacity. I think I paid about $150 total.

08-03-2003, 02:59 AM	#9
chewed 71'er Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: KC, NW Missouri Posts: 144	Last year I tried the 'short-cut' in my 71. Purged the R-12 oil, changed all o-rings, added 134a (ester) oil and freon. Lasted 4 days. The compressor was dragging big time, clutch and belt were both smoking. Lesson learned - duh! Attempt number 2: rebuilt compressor, new reciever/drier, fresh 134a oil and freon. Much better. Cools nicely here in N/W Missouri, but wouldn't know about Phoenix. Just a little more A/C info.

08-03-2003, 02:01 PM	#11
eraser87 Truck Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Kelowna, BC, Canada Posts: 62	we just bought some stuff that is compatable with r12 and r13 , it is called duracool, and is about $30.00 a can .... works great , all you do is add it to your system

05-17-2017, 03:09 AM	#13
Harley03joe Registered User Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Miramar Florida Posts: 153	Re: R12 or R134 Has Anyone Tried R12A Yet ?? Thanks Harley03joe[/B]

05-18-2017, 08:41 AM	#14
MARKDTN Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 2,149	Re: R12 or R134 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=690182 __________________ '83 K20-TPI '73 C10 '79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD) '07 Tahoe(Son driving) '14 Suburban-DD '71 C10-current project

05-18-2017, 12:04 PM	#15
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,936	Re: R12 or R134 I have done two complete swaps and one retro swap all thee from R-12 to 134-A and I want ever use R-12 again. Anybody who say's R-12 cools better than 134-A doesn't know how to do it right. My 71 has been done for several years and it blows 38* inside the cab with outside temps 85 above! The 56 has the classic air sure fit kit and it blows 38* no matter what. The 64 Impala I did the factory air over to 134-A and it runs 38* I had new lines made and changed all the o rings and flushed it out good. Vacuuming the system is the key for a long life. Along with using the right o rings and oil. 134-A works as good are better than R-12 and it's safer for the Ozone! Doing the work is easy as any other mechanic job. Knowing the system and what parts you need is key to a nice swap. I used a newer system in my truck with the accumulator and orffice tube and not the drier. It works great. The Impala I stayed stock but swapped everything over to 134-A. It's running the drier and expansion valve. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.