Should I get a roll cage and how fast is my combo?

[Arekusu]

Hi All,

My project went from strong street truck to maybe more. I'm not certain as I'm unsure how it's going to preform. To my knowledge anything faster than 11.99 needs a roll bar.. but since I have floor patches greater than 2 feet square (I'm pretty sure.. kinda pushing it) I need a full cage. I was hoping to go 12.5 in the quarter, faster is ok, but will I be touching high 11's as configured?

Truck 1964 C-10 SWB Step Side (may get a fiberglass hood later)

Motor

454 .030 over Eagle I beams
Brodix race right oval ports 118 cc comb. chamber. 270 intake
Intake valve 2.25 Exhaust valve 1.88

9.5 to 1 compression ratio

900 CFM Pro Systems carb, Edelbrock RPM air gap intake

Cam specs custom ground from Bullet Cams
Hyd. Roller Cam
Intake Center line Angle - 106
Cam lobe center line angle - 110
Duration at .050 Intake - 230 Exhaust - 238
Gross valve Lift Intake - .601 Exhaust - .601


Tire height is yet to be determined, but I'm looking at anything from 29-33" tall and about 12" wide

Rear gear's also TBD, maybe 4.10's

I Have a TKO-500, but may be looking at a 4 speed like a stronger M-22 or a used / refurbished Jerico. No Auto's for me. Truck should weigh about 3800 lbs. from the last time I weighed it. Coil overs in the rear with heim joint track bars and adjustable brackets for up and down.

I took the cab off to finish painting the truck this up coming weekend. But I thought I should strengthen the frame some maybe for the big block torque.. that got me looking at roll cages.. now I'd just like to know maybe how fast should / can I go and do I need the cage? Thanks for the help in advance. I'm still new to this.

Alex

[Marv D]

NHRA tracks, 11.50 without a roll bar,, 11.4 a 5point bar is required, 9.99 a full cage with a chassis certification

Traction is usually an issue that keeps most cars / trucks out of trouble. You have a very stout combination IMPO,, but getting a street combination to hook and run 11.49 is a challange. I'd say if you plan to RACE the truck,, you WILL get bitten by the faster faster faster bug and need a bar / cage eventually,, do it now, do it right the first time. If the track is a novelity and not a priority,,, I think I'd build it as you want. Many tracks will be pretty forgiving for a few small infractions into the low 11's, If you start pushing the 10 second zone,, you will be making LOTS of changes,, the bar can be one of them.

[Super73]

Buy a Mickey Thompson 315/60/15 drag radial. Right abut a 12.4" contact patch and 30" tall. This is the biggest drag radial you can find. So far it has worked for me.
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[Arekusu]

Hey Marv, thanks for the response again. I didn't want to load your inbox up with PM's . I guess no cage is probably best until I fall off the cliff and want to go faster .

Super 73, thanks for the tire tip, I'll look into those. Do you run a real slick when you race it? I thought about just getting drag radials for when I want to take it to work or something and the slicks for when I want to race it.

Does anyone know of a 4-speed that's built like a Jerico without the $6,000.00 buy in new? Can you retrofit a 4 speed to be rebuilt like a Jerico? I really don't think my TKO-500 is going to last long at all if I shock load the system from about 1500-2000 and drop the clutch.

Alex

[Super73]

Times in my sig are on the drag radial mentioned.

Next time I go I will have my electric water pump on and won't have to worry about throwing the belt again and only getting 1 n20 pass. I really want to start getting it dialed in on the bottle. I know 1.4x's are coming soon, but I really want to get some mid 1.3x's out of it this year on the drag radial.
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[Marv D]

I've got a buddy running into the low 9's with a Liberty 5speed. Myself I don't think there is any chance in the world you will get out with everythig you need, SFI bell housing, flywheel, clutch, trans, shifte,r and all, for less than $10-12k.. and that's probably used price. Thats why we like them ol slushy automatics,,, about 1/3 the cost.

[Arekusu]

Are either of you running a fiberglass hood on the street? (not sure if you trailer your trucks to and from the track only). I'm wondering how they might hold up, as the stock steel hood is pretty heavy.

Also, are either of you using rack and pinion steering? If so how did you go about it? I think switching from my stock parts to a rack may save a few pounds up front as well.

Alex

[Super73]

I don't currently run a hood, but I do have a 1 piece fiberglass front to install someday.

I do the occasional street driving, but no longer make the 3 hour drive to the track with the truck. A trailer and the comfort of my wife's truck is much better.

Stock front suspension.
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[Super73]

Duplicate

[Arekusu]

Im really wondering if a fiberglass hood will hold up to a couple times a week and drag race driving or will it spider where it's mounted.

Any known resources on where to rebuild out steering boxes? Mine feels good, but with the rebuild of the truck I should probably rebuild it or get the rack and pinion. But either way now I have an answer on the cage so I can press forward and get that frame powder coated now and finished.

[Marv D]

My hood is USbodysource fiberglass,, the street grade stuff and it's held up fine for 8-9 years of track and lots of street. BUT.,.,,,.,. the street grade stuff is probably just as heavy as, or heavier than the stock steel hood. For steering I'm running a stock 73 manual box, a-arms and 2" drop spindles with stock GM truck disks up front. I spent enough time on the street that I didn't want to get super frail in front suspension... in hindsight... it spends more time on the track so who knows which is 'best' for the balance of street / strip

[Super73]

Marv, I have weighed our hoods, there are 89-90lbs (weighed 2 of them). My whole "street grade" 1 piece glass front end is around 60lbs
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[Arekusu]

Thanks for the intel. on the hood. We'll see where my savings are after I get it almost all together and painted.

Also, how much does a cage cost? Maybe I was asking a crazy question anyway as I might not even be able to afford one.

[Marv D]

The cost of the cage from a supplier like Alston or S&W,, ets isn't the big issue,, it's the guy that makes it all fit and welding it up that will get into your pocket!

Take a look at the bird dropping welds on my pile, then take a look at the work Shaun had done on his backhalf and you will QUICKLY decide you can't afford to NOT have it done right.

[Arekusu]

Well now I just have to find a guy in the area that may be able to do it. (and hopefully certify it)

I think I'll do the cage but leave the two coming out of the back of the cab for if I break the 11.5 mark. I think the cage will also help me with stiffening the rest of the frame up so I don't destroy the frame with the added torque from the big block.

Alex

[Super73]

Any halfway decent inspector at the track will not let you race a vehicle with just a main hoop and forward door bars. The rear bars are the to help keep the main hoop from colapsing in the event of a roll over.

[Arekusu]

So if I want, I can try and get away with a roll bar (measure my floor pan patches) or I have to step up to the full cage with trailing bars out of the cab to be legal? I can't make an almost cage and just have it certified as a roll bar?

[Super73]

Roll bar = 5 point minimum but most are 6 points

Roll cage has bars coming off the main hoop following the headliner to the windshield and down. They start as an 8 point and grow. I currently have a 10 point in mine.

Both roll bar and roll cage require rear bars from the main hoop to the rear frame.


Roll bar will allow you to go 10.00-11.49
Non funny car roll cage will let you go as fast as 8.50


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