Mark's 51 Build

[edgeleycanuck]

Hello All! I can't say how often I look at this site, really enjoy seeing the talent and creativity you all have, thank you so much for the effort it takes to share your builds!
I'm new to posting on here but here goes. Mine was a 51 one ton it is half ton size now on a Dakota frame. I purchased a 2000 Silverado with a 4.8 4l60 for the power train( maybe a 5.3 in the future). I'm at a point now where I want to get the fuel tank/pump decided and installed. I have a 2003 s10 tank that accepts the 4.8 fuel pump. I'm concerned however about the center vent fitting more precisely how to cap it off(I dont think its required)? Any comments or suggestions are appreciated. Maybe I should use an older metal s10 tank? If so what year and what pump mods would be needed. I believe this pump is held in with a tr14 ring

[joedoh]

you will want a different tank, the 03 s10 was a one year only for evap control. it actually has a shuttle valve in the filler neck that lets the gas tank seal completely when sitting still. if you block that vent, you wont be able to put any gas in, the shuttle valve wont move because the tank wont have any way to release the pressure from adding fluid and displacing air, so the shuttle wont move, and you will have gas all over your feet and not in the tank.

your current pump wont work on an older steel tank either, I cant remember which direction is which but one is shorter than the other, so either you will run out of gas with a 1/4 tank left, or the pump wont fit down in the tank. one is worse than the other.

the flex fuel 2.2 (99-02) S10 trucks had sequential fuel injection so the fuel pump was actually stronger than the 4.3 trucks of the same era, high gph and ~63psi capable. if you found one of those tanks and pumps it would work with your silverado engine.

[dsraven]

joedoh makes some good points, as usual. if anybody knows about s10 swaps and what foits what it would be him.
if you're stuck on using that tank you could vent it to an old fashioned charcoal canister or some sort of filter/chunk stopper. possibly an engine valve cover vent or a diff vent from a big truck etc. make sure the vent is on a nice long chunk of fuel rated hose and sits higher than the tank and out of the way for dirt, road splash, small birds etc.small vent hose equals slow tank fill time.

[dsraven]

thats a serious looking truck you have there. too bad it's in such good shape, you won't have to spent years fixing it. maybe just sell it to me for suuuuper cheap and get a nice rusty one with lots of work required. lol.

[edgeleycanuck]

Joedoh and dsraven, thank you very much for responding! That is exactly the type of information I'm looking for. I didn't know what that center tank fitting did, I think the rear one is the rollover vent. I wondered about attaching filters to the shuttle valve vent but the end of the small tube is broken off at a short length. Somehow I'm just not comfortable with plastic fittings on the fuel system. I think I'll do as joedoh suggests. I'll post some pictures when there is something to show but so far its nothing any of you haven't already seen. The body really is in good shape, good enough that my plan is to see if I can get it running and driving and do body work etc down the road. I feel if I do body and paint work
As I go it will just take too long. Have to say I'm sure glad I decided/needed to post, it is tough to make decisions on so many parts of the build with out knowledge and support from others.

[joedoh]

youre welcome, lots of knowledgeable guys here, and there are no dumb questions (sometimes I give dumb responses haha)

[edgeleycanuck]

Need to ask a favor of the s10 builders. I'm hoping to use an s10 fuel tank, in particular the one joedoh suggested(its for sure the most cost effective). However it turns out the Dakota frame is narrower than the s10. So my question is, the s10 tank is described as being 14.75 inches wide, does that include the protruding seam on each side? If the flat sides of the tank measure 14 inches, I can make it work, (the tank seam on the frame side could be tucked into the frame or set on the top edge of frame), it would leave me with about 1.5 inches between drive shaft and the tank. Thanks.

[edgeleycanuck]

Need some help choosing a fuel pump/sending unit.
I purchased an s10 fuel tank (1999-2002 model as joedoh suggested, and it fit nicely).
My question is the stock or factory fuel pump assembly is a plastic housing with plastic line fittings, of course. I'm wondering if I could source a metal assembly rather than plastic. I know the factory unit is plastic and there are millions in use but the factory fuel lines seem somewhat lighter in weight than what I will have to build with fittings and somewhat bulkier hose etc., so I'm wondering about the strain that may put on plastic fittings. I believe the lock ring is a tr 14.
For what its worth I'm still chipping away at my project. Rebuilding the front suspension now, I believe ordering and installing the entire brake system is next. I'll get some pictures up one of these days.

[joedoh]

you can get plastic fuel line repair fittings at the auto parts store, and use them to run plastic fittings from the tank to the joint where you switch to rubber. put a clamp at that point and that will take care of the strain.

I havent seen a metal assembly that will fit the later tanks.

[edgeleycanuck]

I have various parts of my project on the go and currently I'm back on the fuel system. I ordered a 2000 s10 fuel tank and fuel pump assembly. The problem I have is that the orientation tab puts the pump in a spot where the float is not free to travel. I think the pictures will explain. Somewhere in my searchs there was mention made of a robust sender (seemed an option )? Anyhow any help with this, as always is much appreciated. I've also included a picture of the chassis, it still needs some finishing but I think so far so good. I'm really well practiced at taking the front clip, the cab, and the box off now!
pump is a Delphi efg0376 and tank is a spectra gm16d. Both intended for the flex fuel setup .

[dsraven]

yup, you're stumped now for sure. better drop it all off at my house, along with that metal box floor....
not sure about the s10 fuel pump orientation thing but I know I have bought the plastic line fittings at the parts store. some hydraulic hose places also make brake lines and such so they may have the fuel line fittings in plastic as well by now.

maybe find some info here that would help

http://monsterautoparts.com/CHEVROLE...ending_uni.htm

[dsraven]

I think the float wire is a clip on affair and could possibly be rebent or replaced with another unit's float that would fit the tank and read correctly. even a home made float arm bent like you need with the float part slipped on the wire could work. the kicker is getting the gauge to read correctly. mimick the length of the assembly from the attachment point to the float, in an imaginary circle around the pump body.

[edgeleycanuck]

Thanks for the link Raven. I've looked at so many sites and images of pumps my eyes are sore! Every other pump manufacturer shows a different float lever, a shape that appears would clear properly. I think I am going to order an ac Delco pump.
I've included a few photos. The seats are out of the 2000 Silverado, that's where the box floor and power train come from as well. The seats are kind of big but I was determined to try to use a seat with an integrated shoulder belt. The tubs are nothing different than many others, I still have to shape and fasten one inch material around the tub to lap over the floor.
I have built the box so it can come apart in the future if I ever what to do body and paint work.
The other photo is of the rear box cross member. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, that rear support fits nicely in the stake pockets and the rear 90 of the bed floor fits nice over it just like the newer pickup did. The front of the floor has a strip flush with the front that I can put small fasteners through the front bed panel and into the front part of the floor.

[paintman]

Would love to see more of this build especially the chassis fab. what year Dakota frame did you use???

[edgeleycanuck]

It's a 1991 chassis. Basically the first generation of Dakota, up to 1996 I believe. They were 5 lug wheels the first few years and then went to six. I'm using an explorer rear and put five lug rotors on the front, so bolt pattern is same front and back. I liked the track width of the Dakota and rack and pinion steering. The frame shortens much the same as an s10(mine was an extended cab). I "think" it'll work out but.....there are no kits etc available so this has taken me a long time to get to this point. I have a good half ton frame( my truck body was a one ton.long bed), if I would have bought an ifs for it or went s10 conversion I would be much further along. Oh well, we shall see. Thanks for your interest.

[paintman]

You have pm

[edgeleycanuck]

Finally rolled it outside to get a better look at the stance. Pretty happy with it, 9 inches to the front running board and 10 inches at the back. I would have liked to be about an inch lower overall but I'm OK with it.
Russ, you have mentioned the lines on the fenders and cab floor should be parallel. It seems my front fenders tip down in the front, didn't notice this until I got it outside for a more distant look, but my hood closes nice and the rubber bumpers on the hood line up perfectly with the paint wear on the fenders so I think I'll call it good?, but thoughts are appreciated!

[joedoh]

well that looks outstanding! (in your field!)


edit: oops missed your questioon. looks like the fenders line up ok, as long as the hood shuts well. it does look down just a pinch from the side but honestly getting the hood to shut and line up is such a major thing, I might try a small shim under the core mount but if not I doubt any one would even notice.

[dsraven]

you can help see the body lines by putting bright coloured tape on the lines, then stand back and look. if you have a laser you can use that as well, probably still need a bit of tape or something to see the laser though.

[edgeleycanuck]

Do I get a vote for problem solving with this haha.
I'm sure you all know it's the original horn button

[8man]

That horn button is cool. Nice work on the truck.

[Tempest67]

nice touch with the horn button

[edgeleycanuck]

She's parked for winter work now. Things to do:
Front bumper
Window channels
Cruise control for the dakota digital system.
Put about 2700 miles on since beginning of June.
Really happy with how it runs and drives.
Suspension is rather stiff, short wheelbase doesn't help I suppose.
Could have thought more about an air ride system. Also I completely discounted any need for air conditioning thinking the cowl vent and vent windows would suffice, but that cowl vent Really creates alot of noise.
Anyway just abit of an update. Hope everyone is enjoying their build and projects as much as myself, I can't explain how much I enjoy cruising in this old machine

[edgeleycanuck]

Looking for help/suggestions for a front bumper filler/apron.
I've tucked the bumper closer to the grill and the original filler is beyond repair as a donor to modify. I've never done fiberglass work, maybe an option?
I've also wondered about some form of plastic? Some 3/8 sheet steel would also work I suppose. Anyway any input is invited.

[edgeleycanuck]

In the previous post I meant to say 1/8 sheet steel.