Looking for sbc motor stands / perches / mount brackets

[greywurm]

In need of motor stands / perches / mount brackets (not sure what they are called exactly) for a sbc 350.

Truck was swapped from a 350 to an l6 by a PO. I'm going back to a 350 and I'm not liking the set up with the l6 brackets... Motor doesn't reach trans even in rear position, so I just want do it right with the right parts.

In Southern California. Thanks.

[Xeen]

Depending on what you are going to do with the truck you may want to leave the v8 in the I6 position because the closer to the firewall the engine sits the better the weight ratio and the better the truck will handle.
What is your plan for the truck?

[greywurm]

For now, driveable... Ha.

I got it for a long term project truck, occassional hauling of loads for home improvement projects (home depot, some loads of dirt) and to take my surf board out to the beach ~45 miles away. Random camping trips.

If I ever make it to a show quality phase, I'll probably rebuild the 250 because I really like the look of some l6 setups over sbc and bbc. Or go LS. But realistically, that's way down the road. Right now I just want the extra juice of the 350, and I could only afford the older motor swap project.

[Xeen]

Ok well for simplicity's sake grab some 1967-72 v8 engine perches in the classifieds section and GetRdone.

[greywurm]

I've been looking off and on. Haven't found a set yet.

This is where it stands now. You can see the trans gap at the perch location. I was hoping to not have to resize the drive axle, but I don't think I can make this work without moving the trans forward as well.

Might be easier to get an idea if I could see a picture of the 350 perches.

[wreckedchevy]

I swapped i6 to v8 and used the i6 perches in the i6 position it does work ok but there is no clearance for the hei it's basically touching the firewall ant the zbar for the clutch sits in a weird angle and there is a ridiculous amount of space between the radiator and fan which causes over heating issues when idling. but I didn't have to worry about getting a new driveline by doing it that way (that and I didn't know better back then). if I had to do it over I would move the motor forward just to have some more room around the engine to work on it. whenever we get to swapping my daughter's truck to an automatic I'm going to use her drive line and slide my motor forward.

[Xeen]

The only difference between the I6 and v8 engine perches is the v8 perch mounts in the front two holes which places the engine 2" farther forward.
The factory transmission crossmember can be moved there are various mounting location holes drilled in the frame from the factory.
You won't know if your forward driveshaft tube needs lengthened until you get the engine installed.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

I've been looking off and on. Haven't found a set yet.

This is where it stands now. You can see the trans gap at the perch location. I was hoping to not have to resize the drive axle, but I don't think I can make this work without moving the trans forward as well.

Might be easier to get an idea if I could see a picture of the 350 perches.

OK this might not work, but then again who knows....

Install some longer shouldered bolts through the bell housing to the block for slide/glide only.

Loosen the bolts on engine mounts to block, engine mount to perch, perch to frame, then pull the engine back as far as possible with a come-along pulling off the rear suspension cross-member. If the engine and trans come together (I don't think they will yet) go ahead and put the original bell housing bolts in and tighten then release tension and re-tighten all the mount bolts. If it doesn't come together yet, while tension is still on, tighten all the engine mount to block, mount to perch, perch to frame then release the come-along.

The engine perches have slots on some of the bolts you might gain some there, and the engine mount hole in the perch is usually quite large, add it all up and see if it's enough.

If that doesn't do it, loosen trans mount to trans, trans mount to trans cross-member, and trans cross-member to frame and using the come-along again pull the transmission forward as far as possible pulling off the engine cross-member, or until the trans mates flat to the engine. If it mates up, put the bolts in the bell housing and tighten before releasing the come-along, then after releasing the come-along tighten the trans mount to trans, trans mount to cross-member and the trans cross-member to frame. If it doesn't reach now, you probably need to do something else.

Sometimes the trans mount holes in the cross-members are slotted so there is a possibility you can do this.

If you can bolt the engine and trans together without the engine and trans mounts distorting, and with the drive shaft yoke not out too far, tighten everything up and call it good.

[greywurm]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

OK this might not work, but then again who knows....

Install some longer shouldered bolts through the bell housing to the block for slide/glide only.

Loosen the bolts on engine mounts to block, engine mount to perch, perch to frame, then pull the engine back as far as possible with a come-along pulling off the rear suspension cross-member. If the engine and trans come together (I don't think they will yet) go ahead and put the original bell housing bolts in and tighten then release tension and re-tighten all the mount bolts. If it doesn't come together yet, while tension is still on, tighten all the engine mount to block, mount to perch, perch to frame then release the come-along.

The engine perches have slots on some of the bolts you might gain some there, and the engine mount hole in the perch is usually quite large, add it all up and see if it's enough.

If that doesn't do it, loosen trans mount to trans, trans mount to trans cross-member, and trans cross-member to frame and using the come-along again pull the transmission forward as far as possible pulling off the engine cross-member, or until the trans mates flat to the engine. If it mates up, put the bolts in the bell housing and tighten before releasing the come-along, then after releasing the come-along tighten the trans mount to trans, trans mount to cross-member and the trans cross-member to frame. If it doesn't reach now, you probably need to do something else.

Sometimes the trans mount holes in the cross-members are slotted so there is a possibility you can do this.

If you can bolt the engine and trans together without the engine and trans mounts distorting, and with the drive shaft yoke not out too far, tighten everything up and call it good.

Very good information. Thanks!

[greywurm]

I don't have a come-along, but I had 3/8-16 bolts in assorted length so I used those to marry the engine to the trans. Will have to work on get the crossmember and perches lined up. Slightly off in a coupe places but it should work.

Haven't decided if I want to unbolt both perches and the cross member and shift it forward. There is about an inch between the hei and firewall, but at this point might not need to do the drive axle. Might save it for another project.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

I don't have a come-along, but I had 3/8-16 bolts in assorted length so I used those to marry the engine to the trans. Will have to work on get the crossmember and perches lined up. Slightly off in a coupe places but it should work.

Haven't decided if I want to unbolt both perches and the cross member and shift it forward. There is about an inch between the hei and firewall, but at this point might not need to do the drive axle. Might save it for another project.

Hmmm......is the transmission mount distorted?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

I don't have a come-along, but I had 3/8-16 bolts in assorted length so I used those to marry the engine to the trans. Will have to work on get the crossmember and perches lined up. Slightly off in a coupe places but it should work.

Haven't decided if I want to unbolt both perches and the cross member and shift it forward. There is about an inch between the hei and firewall, but at this point might not need to do the drive axle. Might save it for another project.

When you say drive axle, do you mean drive shaft? How much is the yoke sticking out of the trans?

[greywurm]

There is about a 1/4" on the trans mount that I need to make up. Between the engine perches and trans crossmember I think I can make it up.

I'll have to doublecheck tomorrow but the drive shaft came out about a half inch to an inch if I remember correcty. Did I screw myself here?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

There is about a 1/4" on the trans mount that I need to make up. Between the engine perches and trans crossmember I think I can make it up.

I'll have to doublecheck tomorrow but the drive shaft came out about a half inch to an inch if I remember correcty. Did I screw myself here?

Do you have a floor jack?

[greywurm]

I have a scissors jack, hydraulic jack, and a 1/2 ton jack. Four jack stands. What are you thinking?

[thelonerife]

If you think you still need the v8 perches pm me. I think I have some.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by greywurm

I have a scissors jack, hydraulic jack, and a 1/2 ton jack. Four jack stands. What are you thinking?

If you have 1" or less of yoke sticking out of the tail of the trans, loosen the bolts from the trans mount to the cross-member, then jack up the trans tail and see if the trans mount bolts are able to relax and let the trans move forward. Might help a tiny bit to also loosen the cross-member to frame bolts and jamb it forward if nec. I don't think this will bind your trans shifter (don't remember if you have a column shift) but something to consider. You can live with 1.5" of yoke sticking out the tail, but I would not want more with 1" being ideal.

If the mount still does not relax in position without binding, go to the front loosen the engine mount bolts that go through the top of the perches (the perch holes are somewhat bigger than the bolts to facilitate ease of mount replacement). Put something under the engine oil pan to prevent damage. Then, jack it up and see if the engine shifts back a little without the bolts riding on the rear edges of the holes. If clear, lower it, tighten it and call it good.

If still binding, leave the engine jacked and loosen the perch to frame bolts. Bang them back with a hammer and hopefully you will get where you need to go, keeping an eye on dist clearance.

I predict success.