Tremec TKX 5 Speed Transmission Installation

[pjmoreland]

***EDIT***
Here's a video of it in action
https://youtu.be/FQRVK4FXyFM
*********


I've been wanting to install a manual transmission in my truck for a while now, and I finally decided to do it. I ordered a TCET7805 from Summit. It has a 2.87:1 first gear ratio which will give me a total reduction of around 10:1 with my 3.73 rear end. It also has a .68:1 fifth gear which will be great on the highway.

I plan to use stock mechanical clutch linkage. I am still working on tracking down all of the parts. I have installed the clutch pedal so far. I used new bushings and I installed a new pedal return spring.

I will be using a stock bellhousing from a 1967 Chevy truck, so it has the correct 4.685" bore for the TKX.

The stock TKX shifter is too far back for a truck, so a mid shifter kit is needed. Silver Sport makes one that requires a couple of shafts to be cut shorter inside the transmission. MDL makes one that doesn't require that modification, so I planned on getting the MDL unit. I accidentally ended up getting a unit from Performance Parts Warehouse because I confused it with the MDL unit. The one downside of this mistake is that the one I got doesn't have a 5-4 shift reverse inhibitor. It cost $100 less, so I'm going to give it a try. Installation wasn't too bad, although the transmission tail housing had to be removed. All of these mid shifter kits disable the neutral safety switch. I'm going to install a brake switch on my clutch pedal instead.


***EDIT***
Here's a parts list:
Transmission TCET17805 Tremec TKX, 2.87 first, 0.68 fifth, 26-spline Summit
Shifter Knob SLA-1630108 SST 5 Speed, Black, 3/8-16, locknut Summit
Cross Member XMG-23000 SST GM C10 Gen 2 1967-72 Summit
Transmission Mount ISG-622378 SST A41 GM Tremec TKX Summit
Speedometer Gear SPA-020 SST 20t, black, SPUN-10020 Summit
Reverse Harness ELA-00200 SST Summit
Clutch Kit 75221 McLeod Street Pro Kit: 1961-79 GM 11" x 1-1/8x26, 500HP Summit
Flywheel 1530 RAM Billet 168t, steel, 11", one-piece Rear Main Seal Summit (this is replacing the Luk cast flywheel I installed initially)
Flywheel Bolts 200-2807 ARP Summit
Pressure Plate Bolts 130-2201 ARP Summit
Pilot Bearing PB656HD Timken, .594" ID, 1.094" OD, .750" Width Summit
Starter 336-1849 ACDelco Starter, Bellhousing Mounted Summit
Speedometer Cable Adapter SPA-01 SST, Accepts Threaded cable (stock speedo 70") Silver Sport Transmission
Slip Yoke U1659 Strange Engineering, 1350, 31-Spline Quick Performance
Pinion Yoke GM 12 Bolt Forged Pinion Yoke, 1350 Quick Performance
U-Bolts SPI 39418X Spicer, 1350 O'Reilly
Carpet 17901232 ACC, High Hump, No Tank, Loop, Mass Back Rock Auto
Shifter Boot 132077-4 68-72 4-Speed 4WD GMCPauls
Shifter Boot Retainer 19780019-4 68-72 4-Speed 4WD GMCPauls
Relocated Shifter TCKT18206 Tremec Mid Shifter
Shifter Handle 53851HST Hurst, 73-87 C10 Summit

Here are other items I had to get:
Bellhousing & Inspection Covers - stock 1967 Chevy truck with correct pilot hole diameter for TKX ('68-up are the wrong size)
Stock Mechanical Clutch Linkage:
Clutch Pedal
Clutch Pedal Pad
Clutch Pedal Bushings
Clutch Pedal Return Spring
Clutch Pedal Push Rod
Clutch Pedal Push Rod Firewall Boot
Bellcrank
Bellcrank Frame Bracket
Bellcrank Engine Bracket
Bellcrank Outer Felt Seal
Bellcrank Inner Felt Seal
Bellcrank Ball, Bushings, Snap Ring, Retainer, Nut
Bellcrank Grease Zerk
Clutch Fork Push Rod, Wedge, Pivot, Jam Nuts
Clutch Fork
Clutch Fork Ball
Clutch Fork Ball Retaining Clip
Clutch Fork Boot
Push Rod Clip, qty 3
Clutch Fork Return Spring
Brake Switch - for use as clutch safety switch (made custom bracket)
Floor Shift Steering Column
Driveshaft - custom-made by a local shop

[pjmoreland]

Last night I removed the 4L60 from my truck. I also removed the automatic crossmember. I have a transmission jack, but my jack stands are too short to allow rolling the transmission out from under the truck on the jack, so I used two ratchet straps hooked to the frame rails to lower the transmission onto the floor.

I also removed the shifter linkage and transmission cooler lines and plugged the holes in the radiator.

I did some cleaning of the insides of the frame rails. I doubt they have been cleaned before.

[pjmoreland]

This morning I took my new flywheel and my old flexplate to the machine shop to have the flywheel balanced to match the flexplate. The machine shop that did the machining work on my engine used that flexplate when they balanced the crankshaft. The foreman at the shop recommended having any replacement of the flexplate balanced to match it.

This evening I installed a pilot bearing, and I checked the runout of the bellhousing. The runout is .0025", which is half of the .005" max they allow. The runout is calculated by zeroing at the highest measurement point, then you rotate the engine 180 degrees, and then however much the indicator moves, you divide it by 2. My total indicator reading was .005", so the runout was .0025".

I made a little bracket for my indicator out of a thin steel bar.

[MySons68C20]

Nice write up! When I bought my TKX I got the whole kit from SST with all the the correct pieces including crossmember etc. I did go with he hydraulic throwout bearing & clutch pedal master cylinder. I initially wanted to use a mechanical clutch but couldn't source all the parts needed to make that work. My runout was right at the .005 limit.
Thanks for all the pics and nicely done!

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Nice write up! When I bought my TKX I got the whole kit from SST with all the the correct pieces including crossmember etc. I did go with he hydraulic throwout bearing & clutch pedal master cylinder. I initially wanted to use a mechanical clutch but couldn't source all the parts needed to make that work. My runout was right at the .005 limit.
Thanks for all the pics and nicely done!

What was involved to install the hydraulic clutch pedal and master cylinder?

[MySons68C20]

The kit includes an extended pin to mount the clutch pedal (my truck was orig an automatic) with holes pre drilled to attach the release rod to master.
The kit came with a template to drill the firewall for the release rod and attachment bolts.

[truckster]

Nice work. That looks like it's going to be fun. I just bought a 95 Z/28 with a 6-speed manual and I'm looking forward to getting it on the road. It's been a while since I've mixed the gears myself.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by truckster

Nice work. That looks like it's going to be fun. I just bought a 95 Z/28 with a 6-speed manual and I'm looking forward to getting it on the road. It's been a while since I've mixed the gears myself.

That's a cool car. I saw the photos you posted not too long ago. The last car I had with a manual transmission was a 350Z, but I got rid of it when my son turned 16. He still holds that against me.

[pjmoreland]

I made some progress on the installation today, but I didn't actually install a single piece on my truck. I'm still working on tracking down all of the components for the mechanical clutch linkage. Member 396ci helped me out in a big way today and removed a bellcrank frame bracket from his friend's parts truck for me. I drove over and picked that up along with an OE clutch pedal pushrod that needs some work. I plan on fixing it eventually, but for now I'm going to use a reproduction push rod I ordered from Classic Parts.

I also cleaned and painted several parts today. One of those was the nosecone off what looks to be the original starter I got from a '67 C20 along with a bunch of other parts I'm using on this conversion. I bought an ACDelco 336-1848 starter, but the bolt pattern isn't correct for my '67 bellhousing, even though the ACDelco website seems to indicate that it is. I'm just going to swap over the nosecone from the original starter to this new one.

I need to figure out if I need some special bolts for attaching the starter to the bellhousing. I have two of the three original bolts. They are 3/8-16 x 1.25", and they have smaller-than-normal hex heads for a 1/2" wrench instead of the typical 9/16". I think I'm missing a shorter bolt of the same style that would go in the bottom position.

The inspection cover I've got had a big dent in the bottom. I'm guessing they hit it with the forklift when moving the donor truck around at the wrecking yard. I spent some time working that dent out with a hammer and dolly. It's not perfect, but it will do.

[pjmoreland]

And here's the nosecone and one of the 3/8" bolts for the starter. I also cleaned up and painted the original inspection cover bolts. I'm missing one of the style that has a flat washer attached.

Also, here's the V8 style clutch pedal pushrod with the "dog leg" end.

[MySons68C20]

Hey, it is looking like you are finding what you need, well done!
Here is a pic of my clutch master cylinder installed. I know you don't need it but I like pics ha ha.
Sorry for the spun pic haven't figured that out.

[pjmoreland]

Thanks for posting that photo. Do you have an external slave cylinder that pushes a clutch fork, or do you have a donut shaped slave cylinder that pushes directly on the pressure plate?

[MySons68C20]

The donut shaped one that is the throwout bearing and slave all in one.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

The donut shaped one that is the throwout bearing and slave all in one.

Very nice. Does that style require the use of a bellhousing made specifically for it?

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Very nice. Does that style require the use of a bellhousing made specifically for it?

I don't believe so but not sure as the the bellhousing came in the kit.
The one difference is the front of the TKX has a guide pin installed to keep the slave aligned/oriented properly during install and operation.

[Warrens69GMC]

Flip

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

Flip

Thank you sir!

[pjmoreland]

Did you have to drill a hole in the front of the transmission for the guide pin?

[pjmoreland]

Looks like the front cover might get replaced with one that has the pin installed in it.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Did you have to drill a hole in the front of the transmission for the guide pin?

Nope, it is part of the bolt on bearing retainer plate (not sure what it's called) similar to what your pic shows. It replaces the part shown in your pic.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Looks like the front cover might get replaced with one that has the pin installed in it.

Yup, you got it that is exactly what I have. Mine was preinstalled by SST.

[pjmoreland]

If my clutch pedal ends up being super stiff with the mechanical setup, then I might go this direction.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

If my clutch pedal ends up being super stiff with the mechanical setup, then I might go this direction.

The pedal effort with the hydraulic is super easy for sure.

[truckster]

That's looking really nice. I'm looking forward to hearing about it when you're done.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

If my clutch pedal ends up being super stiff with the mechanical setup, then I might go this direction.

Some late model GM trucks had hydraulic clutches. I'm not sure of the years, but guessing ~ '90s.. The bell housing was aluminum and was cast with provision for mounting a slave cylinder directly on it.. I have one of those bell housings..

The 60-61 Chevy trucks, and possibly other years (I'm doing this from memory) had hydraulic operated clutches.. This was back when brakes had a single piston master cylinder. The trucks had a Siamese master cylinder -- one side for the brakes and the other for the clutch and a common reservoir.. The clutch slave cylinder mounted on a bracket that bolted to the bell housing. The TO bearing and release arm are the same as used on later C/10s. If you decide to go hydraulic, you might look into this arrangement..