1963 LWB bagged project

[provelless]

This is my 63' project, plans are:
* bag it
* z frame 3"
* later model front crossmember/ power steering
* 350 Vortec 700r4
* patina style paint

[provelless]

Body is not to bad, rockers and floor need just a little patching, bed needs a few patch panels and bottom of doors.

[provelless]

Here's where we are today.






This is my first bagged project so I'm sure I'll have a few questions. Since I'm z'ing the frame is there a need/reason the section the front crossmember? I plan on using stock a-arms if that makes a difference. Also I have a plasma cutter and plan on making the notches and bag plates, ect. does anyone have the dimensions on the rear notches? thanks Ken

[creep]

If you Z the frame there is no need to section the crossmember. If you section the crossmember there is no need to Z the frame. If you're swapping crossmembers it might be easier to just section it before you put it in. Either way stock arms should be OK.

Good luck on the project. I'm looking forward to seeing some progress. I'm kinda partial to 63 longbeds

[provelless]

Creep just checked out the build on your truck, super nice truck! Progress on my truck has been slow, a lot of it is I'm unsure what I'm doing the other is it's damn cold ! Anyway here's where I'm at now

[provelless]

[provelless]

[provelless]

All I like in the back is the panhard bar, ordering heims tonight. I feel like the front will go a lot quicker. I noticed some people move the front crossmember forward an inch, some don't, opinions. Ken

[provelless]

Just getting started on the front and have a question. In the bottom pic the lower a-arm is as far up as it will go as its binding on the upper ball joint, there is a 1.5 inch gap. I'm pretty sure I need it to go that 1.5 higher if I can. So is there another ball joint that will angle more or do I take a die grinder to the ball joint? Ken

[joedoh]

do not die grind the ball joint.

there are a couple of approaches:

you can install an upper ball joint with more travel, if available. it may not get you all you need.

you can pie cut the uppers on the vertical just inboard of the balljoint, cut a pie shaped piece out on front and back of the arm, then jack up the lower again. the upper balljoint will bind and the arm will bend, closing the pie cuts, which you weld back up. the drawback here is that you will lose exactly as much lift as drop you gained, which may not matter to you at all.

you can raise the entire upper control arm up at its mounting. this will make the unequal length arms have less camber change and may give you the extra drop you need. the drawback is the arms will be closer to steering components and exhaust headers etc.

you can buy drop spindles and or custom lower arms with drop geometry. this wont keep the balljoint from binding but it will give you more drop before it happens.

[provelless]

My drop spindles should be in tomorrow I'll wait and fit them up then pie cut if needed, thanks

[creep]

You may not need to do anything to the upper arm. Until you have the front end completely mocked up with bags and wheels and a sectioned xmember or Z'd frame you won't know exactly how much drop you need.

[provelless]

That's basically what I'm doing. I'm figuring a max of 28" tall tire, right now with 2.5 drop spindle, lower control arm up as high as it will go my spindle is 14" from ground and I like 2" laying frame. I'm hoping that z'ing the frame just 2" that I want have any clearance issues with trans. My truck has the high hump so I think I'll be ok. Ken

[Popcorn W]

Im going a similar route but you're a little further along than I am. I've got my z done. I need to update my build thread tomorrow. I did 2 inch z

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by provelless

right now with 2.5 drop spindle, lower control arm up as high as it will go my spindle is 14" from ground and I like 2" laying frame.

frame? or bottom of the front suspension crossmember? just asking, the reason people do a z is to put the bottom of the crossmember even with the frame.

[provelless]

Ok I see what your saying, the bottom of my front crossmember needs to be at least flush/same height as bottom of frame. To be honest I haven't even considered that my crossmember could end up to low. With the frame on the lift its not as obvious maybe as it would have been on the ground. thanks


Popcorn looking forward to updates.

[provelless]

Finally getting close on finishing the front.

[provelless]

I noticed my lower control arm was bent a little on pass side, so I'm trying to find a replacement. Called a buddy to see if he knew someone who might have one. He said he didn't know anyone that had parts that old, I said its not for the 63' its a 86' front end, he said I know, that's old. I had to think for a minute its 29 years old, you know your getting old when 30 year old stuff still seems fairly new. Anyway that's about all I like having the front finished.

[provelless]

[Right now with a 27" tire I like about 1/2" laying frame, the upper ball joint is still preventing from going all the way down. I'm thinking I might just get aftermarket uppers because once I get some weight on the front end the ball joints are not going to be happy. I have found some at Speedway Motors that measure 10" from cross shaft to center of balljoint and are offset and are very cheap, I may give them a try

[Bomp]

Lookin' good.

Sub'd

[provelless]

Made a homemade rotisserie, other side is engine stand. and painted the frame.

[provelless]

Tomorrow if I get rained out of work I should get it put back together , install bags, tank and compressor. Next is to get brake lines ran then I can push the frame aside and start the body work. Ken

[provelless]

Well it didn't rain today but I still got a chance to put suspension in along with front airbags and lines.

[provelless]

Here's some pics of my other rides. The Chevelle runs 6.80s its has a 468 12.5:1 with Racerite heads.

[provelless]