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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Westerlo, New York
Posts: 1,325
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My weatherstripping experience..
I read alot of the problems everyone was having with the push on style door weather stripping because I was needing some. I was skeptic, but I joined the herd and ordered some from GMCPauls anyway, hoping I would be one of the fortunate ones.. that was about 6 weeks ago.. I, like every one else had to slam the doors to get them to shut, I tried the heat gun, I tried the door adjustment, I tried slits every so often to let the air escape, but it only improved it a little.. over time they did get a little better, but not enough for my liking, I thought I was going to break a side window slamming the doors.. SO, I ordered some of the glue on type (Precision, DWP 111067) to see how they worked. I was willing to gamble the $25.00 for them... I only did the drivers door, after a week I couldn't be happier. they seal well, and I only have to "lightly" slam the door.. I've still got to change the pass. side, but between closing doors, it's like night and day...Hope this helps others, I know it worked for me.....left one is press on, right is glue on....
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Thanks, Joe.. 1969 C/10, 348 C.I., 3X2 bbl. V8, 2004r , LWB. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 2,188
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Thanks for the info! I am only having problems with my drivers door now. I'm going to try some Dakota weatherstrip on that one before I convert to glue on.
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#3 |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Ugh. I just received the push on style that I ordered. I guess I missed the thread where people were having trouble with them.
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67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,026
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I also went through this. I bought the press on ones. Lots of people they were the best. I disagree. I like the glue on ones much better. The look like the original, cover more of the door frame. Glue on ones are better IMO.
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Jeff 1972 Cheyenne Super SWB 350, Auto, Bucket Seats w/Console, Tach, Factory A/C, P/S ,P/B, Tilt 1998 Chevy 1500 Ext Cab 5.7, Pewter w/blue interior |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: johnstown, NY
Posts: 2,393
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Thanks for posting this. This is one of those things in the back of my head that I'm not looking forward to because of all the horror stories. What is the more popular alternative from another truck? Was it the Dakota that was referenced above?
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#6 |
Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!!
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512
Posts: 10,770
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Just for grins, take some old school Armorall and wipe down the passenger side weather-strip before you remove it and see if that helps. I did that to one out here we had problems with and the doors shut a lot better. The push ons are a little thicker witch explains why it is harder to close the doors, but it is more about what the door does to the weather-strip that creates most of the problem. Armorall helps to allow the door to slip on the weatherstrip and not stick to it. WES
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On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 1,746
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I bought the glue on ones first, and all they did was fall off within a few weeks. I replaced them with push on, and am much happier with them. Doors were a bit harder to shut, but not unreasonable. I think the glue on does fit a little better.
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Gary 1971 Chevrolet C/10 1951 GMC 100 1977 GMC C15 1955 Chevrolet 3100 |
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#8 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Westerlo, New York
Posts: 1,325
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Quote:
__________________
Thanks, Joe.. 1969 C/10, 348 C.I., 3X2 bbl. V8, 2004r , LWB. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Texan, back in TX
Posts: 2,153
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
hamjet, what adhesive did you use with the "glue on" seals? How was the install? Any issues?
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Westerlo, New York
Posts: 1,325
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
It was 3M black superstrength weatherstrip adhesive. I applied it to the outside edge of the top door frame and the mate surface of the weatherstrip according to the adhesive directions, it says wait till tacky, then bond. I did it in sections as not to get glue all over everything. I started at the top, glued, waited maybe 10 minutes, clamped and worked my way down the front of the door frame, then the back. it won't stay on its own so I used small plastic spring loaded clamps I got at the dollar store. I let it set for maybe an hour then removed the clamps. I had to shut the door almost as hard as the press ons, but after time the door closed much easier. hope this helps...
__________________
Thanks, Joe.. 1969 C/10, 348 C.I., 3X2 bbl. V8, 2004r , LWB. |
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#11 |
PROJECT 7DEUCE
![]() Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,608
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I have the precision seals but have yet to install them thanks for the info..
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GO BIG GREEN ![]() MEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,615
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Best way I found for the glue on ones is start at the top, only do about a foot to start with. Put the glue on the weatherstrip only. Push it into place and pull it away slightly, push it on again and pull it away again. Keep doing that. Each time you'll make a better bond and squeeze out the air and establish glue strings between the seal and the door. Slowly it will start to stick into place. Keep working it till it won't pull away easily. Let it sit awhile and squeeze it on and off again. When the seal will hang without pulling off due to it's own weight then do another foot. You'll get faster at it and each door will take 3 hours or more but it'll never fall off.
Another tip is take the seals outta the box and lay them out in the hot sun for an afternoon. Softens them up. Makes them less kinky and easier to work with. |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 158
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I installed the push-on seals in my '68 and couldn't get the doors to even latch, let alone slam shut. This is after removing two year old glue-in seals where the doors fit nice. Ended up tossing the push-on seals and installing another set of glue-in seals without a problem. I liked the idea and look of the push-on seals, but I couldn't get them to work no matter how I adjusted the door/hinge/latch/etc.
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#14 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Yuba City, Ca
Posts: 1,945
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I'm in the same boat with the push on seals. The driver side is not horrible but still a pretty good slam. The passenger side is really hard to close and I have to slam the crap out of it to close it. I've had them on for several months and pretty much no change. I've tried at armoral and it did nothing. I don't like the glue but I may have to switch back. 50 bucks down the drain I guess.
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Kirk 72 Blazer CST 4wd highlander |
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#15 |
Six in a row makes it go...
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
Posts: 1,346
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
Judging by the number of people in the other thread that seem to like them, I wonder if the V-cut is the key or if it all depends on how tight your doors fit to your cab? I dunno...
This Friday I go to pick up my cab and doors from the painter. Part of the plan to haul them back is to install the doors and the weatherstripping. Should be interesting...
__________________
67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce |
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#16 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: bolivar, mo
Posts: 839
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I am going to revive this thread--------very good information.
this is aug 2017 so the door seal thing is an ongoing problem. Too bad we cant have a sticky on the forums about this issue. My experience and solution: After investing thousands in my build I arrived at the weatherstrip issue. I purchased about 4 yrs ago the current (at that time) design of precision push on seals. When I recently got to put them on--the doors acted as if there was a block of wood preventing them from shutting. I contacted gmcpauls and found out that there was indeed a new design with a formed corner at the top and they were thinner. I asked if the glue on were thinner and was told that when installed the glue on and the push on were the exact same thickness. Nothing was mentioned about a different design pattern between the two types. I had seen that some guys were talking about using dodge Dakota door seals and having good luck. I was at a point where I would try anything. I went to a local pick and pull and found an excellent Used pair of 1994 reg. cab door seals. I carefully removed them, cleaned them up and have so far installed the pass. side--------The FIT was nearly perfect, the hard bends were in the same places and I still had about 4" of the Dakota seal to cut off. The doors closed with medium pressure where I had a 3/4" gap in the back previously. I at first wasn't pleased with the idea of used door seals--but I looked at 6 wrecked trucks and found 1 very good set. I spent $12.50 and 1 hours time and I'm so pleased with these used seals that when my new chevy seals from gmcpauls get here, I doubt that I change them out. When the new door seal plates get here and I finish the installation I will be posting pics on my build. I wish I had found this thread first and seen the pics of the diff seal profile---woulda saved me some time!!! The V profile makes all the diff. in the new seals. So forget push on-----get glue on!!!
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1997 shortie stepside 1968 short stepside 1966 mustang 1966 chevelle ss Dont always go the cheapest route--You can save yourself into the poorhouse! My Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489030 |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: phoenix az
Posts: 105
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Re: My weatherstripping experience..
I wish I read this before I'm at the door seal stage and a month ago I tried to install the glue in ones I bought from LMC 3 years ago I didn't want to use the glue so after watching a video from Brothers on their push on type guy made it look so easy. I sold my glue in weather stripping for $20. Tonight after putting the push on ones in and even cutting them short bending the bottom part to get under the sill plate I can't close the door not even close unless I pull back the bottom and remove the sill plate. OEM was glue in and that is why they work softer and smaller these are plane junk don't fit. Now I'm stuck with them I'm sure there won't be any return since I cut one I guess I can return the other side I removed from the bag that was all.
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