Could anyone spring into action post and cut me a brake? See what I did there?

[thedudeabides86]

Soooooo, working on this ol mess. I've got all the parts off and installed the new wheel cylinder. I cleaned up the back plate. The old wheel cylinder leaked and prevented me from bleeding the brakes efficiently since the pedal just dropped down to the floor. I got all my parts at O'Reilly down the street and for replacement spring kits they offer an 11" or 11.5". How do I know what spring kit to use? I can't find anything anywhere that helps to determine what size kit I need. Anyone help me out? I'd really appreciate it.

[Rickysnickers]

You could try measuring the inside diameter of the drum. That should tell you. If you got replacement shoes, did you buy the 11" or 11.5"? That's another way of knowing, and I'm not intending to crack wise with that question.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

You could try measuring the inside diameter of the drum. That should tell you. If you got replacement shoes, did you buy the 11" or 11.5"? That's another way of knowing, and I'm not intending to crack wise with that question.

The replacement shoes measured at 2.5" wide, but when you refer to them as 11" or 11.5", do you mean the overall length of the shoe itself? I believe the inside diameter of the drum measured about 12". I can get more info once I get outta this slow and boring work day. Bah!

[RustyBucket]

Tell the boss you're sick & go home. Wash up the old hardware and compare it to the parts in the two kits. Return the kit you don't need & swap it for a kit for the other side. I highly recommend retirement as an option.

[B. W.]

11" or 11.5" refers to the diameter of the drum. (don't think these trucks came with 11.5) If your rear end is a Dana 60 & you have 12" drums then you may have a hard time finding the correct kit. 12" drums were used one year only. (1971)

[demian5]

Measure the drum diameter and width and go to rockauto to get part numbers.

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by B. W.

11" or 11.5" refers to the diameter of the drum. (don't think these trucks came with 11.5) If your rear end is a Dana 60 & you have 12" drums then you may have a hard time finding the correct kit. 12" drums were used one year only. (1971)

That is not true, all the Dana 60s had 12'' drums. I've had 3 different trucks both 2wd and 4wd with D60s all were 12''. I currently have a 68 GMC--2wd, 3/4 ton Dana 60...12'' drums.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

Tell the boss you're sick & go home. Wash up the old hardware and compare it to the parts in the two kits. Return the kit you don't need & swap it for a kit for the other side. I highly recommend retirement as an option.

Ha! I've been trying to retire since I discovered that work sucks. I've still got the old springs so I should be able to match things up. The guy at O' Reilly mentioned I could return the kit I didn't use even if I opened it. I figure I'll open it nicely so the next guy that buys it doesn't get screwed.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by B. W.

11" or 11.5" refers to the diameter of the drum. (don't think these trucks came with 11.5) If your rear end is a Dana 60 & you have 12" drums then you may have a hard time finding the correct kit. 12" drums were used one year only. (1971)

I guess I'd better figure out what type of rear end I've got. Is there a specific way of knowing? This is a 3/4 ton C20.

[Jeff's bowtie's]

Eaton ho52 and 72 rears all have a round cover on the back and the whole center section will unbolt on the front side and come out as a complete unit the dana 60 will have the number 60 on the webbing on the center section going to the axle tubes and it has a angle shaped cover on the back
This is a borrowed pic of a ho52

[Jeff's bowtie's]

Borrowed pic of a dana60

[demian5]

Man, we can sometimes beat the crap out of a subject so bad. Starts with someone asking about a carb, ends with a new right rear cab mount.

CLICK HERE:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...dware+kit,1752

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by B. W.

11" or 11.5" refers to the diameter of the drum. (don't think these trucks came with 11.5) If your rear end is a Dana 60 & you have 12" drums then you may have a hard time finding the correct kit. 12" drums were used one year only. (1971)

Roger that one. I have a 70 c20 with a dana 60 with 12 x 2.5 brakes.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Judging on everyone's input, it seems as though 5-lug would be 11", 8-lug would be 12", so through process of elimination 11 1/2" should be 6-lug. But I'm just shootin in the dark.

[dmjlambert]

I was looking through the LMC catalog for some parts for my brakes and saw this

[Steeveedee]

OK, I'm not Mr Truck, but I will say that I have never seen or heard of 11-5/32" brake drums.

[dmjlambert]

Apparently O'Reilly just calls them 11 and a half, but LMC knows they are 11-5/32. They must have gotten out a measuring stick...

[B. W.]

Originally Posted by kwmech

That is not true, all the Dana 60s had 12'' drums. I've had 3 different trucks both 2wd and 4wd with D60s all were 12''. I currently have a 68 GMC--2wd, 3/4 ton Dana 60...12'' drums.

Good to know, sorry for the mis-information. I had a tough time time finding parts for the 12" drums.

[aerotest]

11-5/32 brakes are the heavy duty option for c10s. They came on suburban. They use 3/4 ton wheel cylinders. Took me many trips to the part store to figure that out.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by aerotest

11-5/32 brakes are the heavy duty option for c10s. They came on suburban. They use 3/4 ton wheel cylinders. Took me many trips to the part store to figure that out.

I've done hundreds of brake jobs, but never on a Suburban. I learned something today!

[thedudeabides86]

So, update on the brake job. I tried taking off the driver side brake drum and I believe the shoes are tightened up against the drum. I've got the spoon adjuster and tried to back the shoes off, but I can't turn the star adjuster wheel back. I watched a YouTube video where a guy pushed a lock up and away and then was able to back it off. That was with the drum off. Any suggestions on getting at the lock and backing the star adjuster back besides going insane attempting it? Ughhhh. It's very frustrating This is my first time doing brakes on this thing. Nothing like being a rookie and trying to get things to work out..... Thanks for all the advice so far on this thread. I really appreciate.

[B. W.]

I use a small rod to reach in through the hole on the backing plate. Push on the adjuster lever while turning the adjuster with your spoon.

[thedudeabides86]

Originally Posted by B. W.

I use a small rod to reach in through the hole on the backing plate. Push on the adjuster lever while turning the adjuster with your spoon.

The adjuster lever is what's locking the adjuster into place? I can look at a diagram and see where the adjuster lever is in hopes to disengage it from the wheel to back the shoes off.

[stsalvage]

You are so lucky to have the slide off drums.I drove a 1965 for the better part of 20 years brakes where a hassle.But i can say this.Do it right the first time and never have problems again.

After you have it token apart Clean every thing with a power washer or gas or what ever make sure its clean.

One of the things I've seen with are old trucks from 1960--90 is the rear 3/4 ton brakes backing plate.

where the brake shoes rest on.If there are groves in the backing plate grind them smooth Use a wire feed welder weld them back up to even and grind smooth.

That will solve most of your problems.Change the anti adjust and spring kits.Change the wheel cylinder change the out side rubber brake line do a good flush job.

When you buy new drum brakes take them down and have them turned.Them china drums are junk.I had to take 30 thousand off my new drum for them to be round.

I'm not for glue on brake shoes buy the ones with ribits.In some states the glue dose not hold up to cold temps.Check your bearing in your rear end.

Do it right the first time In 30,000 miles check the rear drums and blow out the brake dust.Other then that your brakes will work

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by thedudeabides86

The adjuster lever is what's locking the adjuster into place? I can look at a diagram and see where the adjuster lever is in hopes to disengage it from the wheel to back the shoes off.

I put a screwdriver in the adjustment hole and use it to turn the adjuster wheel by pushing down on the wheel teeth to tighten the brakes, and push up on the wheel teeth to loosen them. If the lever prevents the wheel teeth from moving up to loosen (which it should), then you can shine a flashlight in that adjustment hole and look up in there and you will see the lever resting on the teeth. Stick a small screwdriver in there and just gently lift the lever from the teeth, then you can use a bigger screwdriver to turn the adjuster wheel. You get some dexterity exercise from this.