Let's Build A 1 Ton Crew Cab 4x4

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by jott_06

On my suburban I kept the front 2wd crossmember in tact and built mounts for the sway bar off of it. I will try to get some pictures because I dont think I took any during the build.

Did you ever take any picture for me?

[NastyBuzzard]

Got my wheels and some super cheap roll around tires. I was looking for 35s but I got these 34s for a total price of $45! Couldn't beat that.







It will require spacers. I can see how it would work on a D44 axle but these hefty ass tie rods won't allow it on the 60. I mean the wheels are completely seated but do hit he tie rod.



I am not sure what I will do as far as spacers go, I want the smallest one I can get basically up front but need to have enough thread available as well on wheel stud (I could buy some longer studs and install those and use like 1/4" or so wheel spacer). The back looks like it could use 1-1/4" spacers or so. I am loving the wheels though. One neat thing is, dodge uses same lug nuts/wheel stud size, 9/16-18 so I was able to use the dodge lug nuts, therefore I can keep the dodge center caps as well. I have to cut a 4.5" hole in the front ones and the rear I will shave off the ram emblem and put a gmc/buzzard/4x4 or something on them instead.

[NastyBuzzard]

Awesome! I'd definitely appreciate it! I think doing that will be easier and neater than trying to retrofit the 4x4 one bc it was too tall and had to remove the sway bar mounts from it anyways and mount them further ahead.

[NastyBuzzard]

Unfortunately, my second alternative hitch wont work because it is off a k5 which apparently has a curved frame or something like that at the rear. So I will be working on modifying the one I originally made for my 87 V1500 longbed.

I did get my tool box organized somewhat today.

I also got some of the fuel lines ran. So far reusing what I already have. Seems like it will be fine for the low pressure diesel.

Although I will need to remove the gas fuel filter. I also need to fit in a lift pump somewhere. Also, it is a pain to find pictures of the original mounting points of the lines in frame rail online.

[y5mgisi]

Like

[NastyBuzzard]

I started to bolt down the bed. I was prepared to have to drill holes and all, but wow. All the carriage bolts just fell right in. Except the 2 closest to the tailgate. When I checked them out it was only b/c the hole was too small. So I just have to drill out those 2 holes. However, as you can see I may need to widen some holes to get it flush with the body, somehow it is off a tad on the DS.









I also cleaned and mounted the front prop valve and brake lines.



I need to find some steel braided hoses to go to the calipers, as well as steel braided hose to go from rearend up to the frame. Any ideas, should I make them myself?

I had a little bit of time and decided I wanted to see about the hitch more. I pulled out the one I originally made for the 87.



With some slight modification, I got it to set up in there.







I am going to model up some new 1/4" side plates for mounting, but I don't like the dainty square tubing even if it is 1/4" wall tubing. So I decided to cut the mounting plates of the k5 blazer hitch I had and I am going to make some more mounting plates for it instead as well as tuck it a little closer to the bumper. Its for aesthetics really, I just don't like the hitch to be hanging all crazy out there and way low.



Hopefully this week I can get my gear box rebuild finished up and work on the mounting plate for the hydroboost setup.

At this time I am also trying to finish plumbing lines and finding all the new holes I have to drill in the rear of the frame. So hopefully the next time I remove the bed it will be the last time until paint.

Also, I measured the body lines and it appears the front is about 2.5" higher than the rear. So after it is all together with all the weight on and the 35"s I will see about the height. If I can live with it being that much taller in the front I will add to the rear to level it out. However, I am pretty sure it will be too high and I will have to swap out the front springs. Time will tell.

[NastyBuzzard]

I did finally get my wheels!! I have heard people say you need spacers with these and some say you don't. I guess I will find out soon enough. I need some 33 or 35" roll around tires to slap on them for now. New tires aren't currently in the budget but I am ready to ditch the stock wheels and 31s.

[daddyjeep]

Nice, love the wheels.

[NastyBuzzard]

Me too!! I have been hunting a set of these specific ones since I got the crew cab! I love the 5 star design, I was stoked I found the chrome set. I never thought I would and they were cheap! Now I just need some cheap tires to roll on.

[68Timber]

Those look good. Did you see y5mgisi's update yesterday on his 76? He put some budget new tires on his refurbed wheels that looked great and had good reviews, might be worth checking out.

[NastyBuzzard]

Yeah I see all his updates on facebook too. We are friends there I think. However, they are a great deal for tires but still more expensive than what I need at the moment. The set still ran him around $640 or so I think. I just need some tires that hold air for the moment. I still haven't decided if the truck will get MT or AT tires.

[NastyBuzzard]

So, extended brake hoses. What are some cheap options here? I would like steel braided but so far I can't find the 3 hoses for less than $100. So I am looking at other options. I don't want to drop the lines down below the frame.

[y5mgisi]

You can get factory rubber ones for I think like a 93-96 2wd 3/4 ton chevy pickup that are long enough for like a 6" lift and have the correct ends. As I recall there is an extra bracket on the hoses where they would have mounted onti the control arm but it's removableremovable. Look into those.

[NastyBuzzard]

Will do. Any difference in the fitting on the 1ton caliper vs the 3/4 caliper?

A lot of sites only show lines for 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton so I had to ask.

Also I see someone sells a 3/4 ton brake swap kit for the dana 60, says it saves you 41 or so lbs. Why go smaller, I figure the 1 ton stuff must be better?

[y5mgisi]

I think the 3/4 swap guys are mostly crawler guys that don't need the bigger brakes. And I really don't recall the exact details on the brake lines. I have them on my suburban now but they have been on there from probably 10 years. Maybe if you ask on one of the Facebook groups they will be more hip to what I'm referring to.

[y5mgisi]

These might work.

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...874502&alt=web

[NastyBuzzard]

Whoa! Those lines are cheap! Those would be excellent. They say for 6-8" of lift though. Seems like they would be ridiculously long? I need some 4"-6", if only could find those at that price.

EDIT. That is the price for just the rear line not all 3 per the description.

[NastyBuzzard]

So I am looking at coming up with brake upgrades and I have to wonder...

I put H3 hummer 4 piston calipers up front of my 87 4x4 with Dana 44.. So besides to some modifications to the mounting bracket for caliper and the fact that the rotors are 6 lug rotors. Any reason why I couldn't do almost same damn thing on this dana 60?







I am also looking into rear disc upgrade for rear. I need park brake and I won't use the el dorado calipers. I am maybe thinking of a way to try and put the H3 4 piston caliper or on the rear as well. Its conceptual at the moment. However, I still need park brake. I have seen that Wilwood makes a standalone mechanical park brake caliper. I could use that, maybe. IDK.

Something like this.

http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk/svascal1.html

School me b/c I haven't found crap for some real nice brake upgrades.

[MTCK]

Have you considered driving it with the stock brakes? Only reason I ask is they stop pretty damn well with the big drums out back and hydroboost. I was thinking about brake upgrades on mine before I installed a new booster and master cylinder and it will lock them all up if you stomp on the pedal. Not sexy, but they work.

[NastyBuzzard]

Not with it 4x4 and hydroboost but otherwise yeah. I just want really good brakes in case what I'm towing doesn't have brakes.

Plus it pretty much all needs replacing and I'd hate to spend that $ and then it not reform and I have to redo it. I hate doing that. Plus I already want to go disc brake out back.

[jott_06]

could you just get all the parts to covert it to rear discs from a newer 3/4 ton gm truck?

[NastyBuzzard]

I mean yeah it's possible. Then could try and use the drum in hat park brake that they use. I just really like the beefy ass H3 calipers. Either way a mounting bracket of some sort would need to be developed.

[NastyBuzzard]

This copper/nickel line is amazing! Bends easy by hand and doesn't kink, also super easy to double flare.



Apparently, we welded shock mount at way too much of an angle. That's what I get for rushing and eyeballing it.




I'm wondering how tricky running the filler neck is going to be. Also seems like not enough clearance between bottom of bed and top of tank.

[NastyBuzzard]

So the smallest thickness of a spacer I can find is like 1". I don't want wheels to stick out way past the fender. So opinions on 1/4"-1/2" spacer with longer wheel studs? What wheel studs?

I will be using around 1.5" spacer in the rear, well depending on the thickness of the front.

[NewType72]

Should easily be able to find 1/4-1/2" spacers on eBay I feel that should be no problem even for 8 lug stuff have you checked a local Auto parts store for a generic one?