Got the truck down street, now questions

[Denee007]

Hi ya'll! an update to include the entire gang here:

Yesterday I idled around my neighborhood to see how the truck would do. I put about 5 gallons of gas in it to hopefully not run out. When I pulled in my driveway after about 15 minutes, the engine died abruptly, but started right up, then would die about a minute later, did this over and over again. I suspected the module in the dizzy cause I had the same problem in my Mustang (had an HEI same brand), so I just happen to have one! Also I noticed no electric gel beneath the module (I know this is supposed to be important). Today, I ran it all around the area and seems to be doing OK. I don't know if I trust it yet to go very far.

My main question is that of steering. I have the Saginaw power steering conversion from Brothers with the steering box in front of the drivers side wheel, but I moved the gear a little farther forward than what the directions said in hopes to ward off bump steer. Stock straight axle with disc brakes/king pins overhauled by Sid at Dropped axles. Steers extremely easily. When I'm idling down the road, the best way I can describe it is like when steering a boat at slow speed, you know, a lot of play until you get going then the steering seems to resume. I'm kind of chicken to get it too fast for right now! It's not quite that bad, but very noticeable. With my husband moving the steering wheel back n forth with the engine off, all looks good, everything is tight, the gear is solid. I was thinking maybe to adjust the steering gear a little tighter? I need mufflers! the resonating sound is killing me!

The AC, when I started the engine out of a cool garage, the AC was blowing 38 degrees((it's 90degrees here), but when the truck gets up to operating temp, the temp goes to about 40-45. I checked the heater control valve and it is closed or no feeling of hot water going into the heater core. I have an electric fan, desert cooler radiator. The temp gauge on the factory instrument cluster goes pretty far over to the right, but with a thermometer in the radiator, it's hovering about 185-190, feels hotter, but the thermometer isn't lying to me. For checking the AC, I have my AC gauges hooked up running about 25/225 at fast idle. I have my power cat squirrel cage blower directly in front of the grill. I wish the electric fan would move more air! Have to think about this!
Comments always welcomed!
dne'

Otherwise, I'm just having to get used to the truck on the street. Kind of scary, but the truck is tight, no squeaks except for the door which I haven't put the door weather stripping in yet. The brakes, though I have power front disc brakes with rear drum, just don't seem to stop as well as I'd like. I have a good vacuum line going to the booster. I re-bled the rear brakes cause of having the axle off recently.

So if you'd have comments, especially on the steering part, that would be appreciated! Right now, I'm playing with the AC, the low side valve is leaking and overnight, the system became low, but functionally cooling.

[nvrdone]

Check your caster. By installing a dropped axle, that changes the spring angle & rotates the king pin forward decreasing the caster & causing the steering to wander. How do I know ? I had the same problem when I installed a 3" dropped axle under my '49 3100.

[Denee007]

Now I didn't do a dropped axle (darn it) nvrdone, but I did put in 6 degree shims as per Sid's advice. Perhaps I don't need that shim or maybe any shim with power steering? I think from the factory it came with a 3 degree? Then, maybe once I'd get going a "Normal" speed, maybe that might be OK. Sid was telling me with the 6 degree shim that the truck may hold a better line when going down the road, but maybe he meant with manual steering. Ah, the learning lessons!

[Russell Ashley]

EXPENSIVE learning lessons. I think what you described is just a characteristic if the power steering setup that we used. I also installed 6 degree shims and it improved mine but it's still not really satisfactory to me. I have been driving my truck a good bit lately and I have made up my mind that I will dump the straight axle, just don't know exactly when.
I've spent a lot of $$ on my truck in the last couple of months and I want to install the stuff I've already bought before I make any more purchases.

[Nordic]

I have almost the same set up for steering, had the same feel, make sure the ubolts on the springs are torqued tight. I put new springs in the front also helped because they wiggled in the hangers, It now steers nice at slow speeds and going down the road, Don't give up, mine is fun to drive!

[Denee007]

Are you talking about a front clip to replace what you have, or what? What would you like with affordability in mind? I don't think I can justify doing more, if it will just get me and my husband back and forth to the Nifty50ee's alive, I'll be OK, but it there's any hint of danger~ I'll have to consider otherwise.

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

EXPENSIVE learning lessons. I think what you described is just a characteristic if the power steering setup that we used. I also installed 6 degree shims and it improved mine but it's still not really satisfactory to me. I have been driving my truck a good bit lately and I have made up my mind that I will dump the straight axle, just don't know exactly when.
I've spent a lot of $$ on my truck in the last couple of months and I want to install the stuff I've already bought before I make any more purchases.

[Denee007]

Thanks, I guess I'd better put it back up on the lift and double check everything!

Originally Posted by Nordic

I have almost the same set up for steering, had the same feel, make sure the ubolts on the springs are torqued tight. I put new springs in the front also helped because they wiggled in the hangers, It now steers nice at slow speeds and going down the road, Don't give up, mine is fun to drive!

[Nordic]

Some times it is better to slide under the truck while it is on the ground to check. When it is up in the air the angle and tension on everything is different

[nvrdone]

Ok, sorry. When I saw Sid's I thought dropped axle. Still, check all the alignment specs. Mine tracks straight even up to over 100 mph. Not that I've ever driven it that fast.

[_Ogre]

as much work as you've done to your front end it should be tight
new king pins, springs, ps box and disk brakes as i recall
check all your fasteners and drag link/tie rod ends to make sure you haven't missed anything
straight axle does not handle like rack and pinion your probably used to
but there shouldn't be play in all you've done to it



as for the temp gauge; the needle point to an arbitrary point. mine is overheating to the right of center
yours might go farther to the right, once you figure out where operating temp is keep an eye on it
if your heater core hose is cool to touch then the valve is off
i don't see a charging scheme on the oldair site, vintage air recommends 1.8 lbs.
i tried to use ac gauges with disastrous results, requiring a new $179 compressor.
a friend has a charge machine, now i take it there. works perfect every time.

brakes: these trucks are light, power brakes should lock up all 4 wheels with a quick jab of the pedal.
give the brakes a couple of rolling brake tests and re-bleed them.
maybe an air bubble will break loose when as you work the brakes hard

me thinks your just a little afraid of the old beast
recheck torque, bleed the brakes and then beat the snot out of it

[Denee007]

Thanks Ogre! Will do! However, be a few days before getting back into it again. Wednesday I'll be back at it and this time I should be taking it to get the exhaust installed!
dne'

[OrrieG]

Glad to see you are on the road. If it the box looks tight it probably is ok. To adjust it loosen the big nut and turn the inside screw until you can feel the recirculating balls start to tighten, then back off a little bit. Can't help on other suspension issues or the AC either, if the low side is leaking that is probably the cause. The front discs do most of the work anyway, but if it bugs you an adjustable proportioning valve will let you balance front to back.

[Denee007]

Orrie, thank you! What a dummy I can be sometimes, I have an adjustable proportioning valve on the truck, I just need to play with it next encounter thank you for reminding me
Dne'
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[mknittle]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

EXPENSIVE learning lessons. I think what you described is just a characteristic if the power steering setup that we used. I also installed 6 degree shims and it improved mine but it's still not really satisfactory to me. I have been driving my truck a good bit lately and I have made up my mind that I will dump the straight axle, just don't know exactly when.
I've spent a lot of $$ on my truck in the last couple of months and I want to install the stuff I've already bought before I make any more purchases.

yeah, I knew those kits were going to be a problem the first time I laid eyes on one. too bad people sell stuff like that. I wonder if converting that kit to cross steer would be feasible.

[mknittle]

Denee, actually that isn't too many little glitches for having made so many changes at one time. Your truck looks good! alyays remember Murphy's law murphy hangs around here quite a bit lately

[Clarance J]

Hi Denee,
First of all congratulations on your first and short road trip. I recently got my truck on the road also. I didn't go very far either. In May. I too have the same steering set up on Clarance J. I don't know how close our problems are but I had issues with the steering too. It made real nervous driving the truck on the street at speed. I've driven my truck thousands of miles with the stock steering and never had too much of a problem other than being stock steering. We do these up grades for whatever reasons. The way I calmed it down was to put a steering stabilizer in the mix. You have looked at most of my thread before so maybe that might help your truck. Not trying to push my thread but look from post #50 thru #63. It helped my truck maybe it will help yours. No name yet huh. The truck is looking real good . Sorry no help on the other stuff. Good luck.

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by Denee007

Are you talking about a front clip to replace what you have, or what? What would you like with affordability in mind? I don't think I can justify doing more, if it will just get me and my husband back and forth to the Nifty50ee's alive, I'll be OK, but it there's any hint of danger~ I'll have to consider otherwise.

I'm day-dreaming now about a Scott's setup because I like the one piece cross member, and it looks like I could install it without too much dis-assembly of the truck. I guess I'll make that decision when I get ready to do something.
My truck has all new spring and shackle bushings, king pins and bushings, 6 degree shims, and the steering box is tight. I have not moved my steering box like you did so my drag link is short, which could be part of the problem I guess. I wish I were starting over on this truck knowing what I know now, but then don't we all, LOL.
I'm driving my truck pretty regularly now. I had it up to about 65 coming back from a cruise in Friday afternoon, so I don't feel like it's un-safe to drive. I just don't like the way it drives.
On the positive side, my brakes are great, and I am well pleased with that upgrade.

[papastrk]

The 6 degree caster shim goes hand in hand with the power steering. As you increase caster to create a more stable steering feel you make it more difficult to turn the spindles because they lift one corner of the truck (800#) or the other when you turn. The more caster the more stable at speed and the more difficult to turn the wheel at slow speeds. Power steering is a big help here. And I agree the steering stabilizer may help the steering feel. If you ever have a straight axle truck shimmy at any speed, you won't forget it. A good stabilizer kit will stop the shimmy. Straight axle suspensions are a different animal than the IFS suspensions.

[roger55]

I doesn't sound to me like there is anything wrong with the A/C.
Pressures seem just right and 40-45 degrees (hot day / hot engine) is good.

[itstheshu]

What about the front tires? You had mentioned in a different post that one tire may be a different size.
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[Coupeguy2001]

Hey Denee,
I put a saginaw box in my 57, and the steering is way too light. After pushing and pulling the original steering for over 40 years, it takes a lot of getting used to.
I went to a steering box rebuilder, and talked with them about the steering, and they told me that the late 60's and 70's cars were set up for one finger steering.
What they do is change the torque bar inside the box to give it some road feel. With everything I have done to my truck, the steering was the biggest disappointment.
I haven't got my box modified yet only because I have to change the lower most u joint, pay to have the box modified, and the truck will be apart again and I can't drive it.

As far as the brakes, I too put a proportioning valve in my truck, and turned it way down to the lowest point. The truck stopped ok, but I have a hydroboost, and it should have stopped faster. When i turned up the proportioning valve, the rear brakes were starting to work. Then I readjusted them some more after the fuzz wore off the linings, and it stops really good now.

Exhaust:
Why don't you measure the output of the header collector couplings, and go to the muffler shop that is going to do your work and get them to give you two 4 foot pieces of tube, and tack them on so you can get the noise back farther while you do your troubleshooting? They are going to get the tubes back anyway.

Temp:
your condenser covers up most of the radiator opening. Your condenser might be too large for the opening. You really want more airflow over the radiator that isn't already heated by the condenser. You might want to try putting some spacers on the condenser so it is forward a little more and get some air to go around it instead of through it. Go out and look at your Mazda, and determine how much percentage of radiator is unobstructed by the condenser, and try to get that amount for your truck.
Otherwise, What thermostat are you running? If the thermostat is 180, it will not let the water temp go below 180. and slows down your cooling when the engine might be happy with a 160 thermostat.
Also, you might drill two 1/8" holes in the perimeter of the thermostat to eliminate any trapped air that might get caught in that void on the outer ring of the thermostat.
It has been my experience with my truck that the water will seek it's own level unless you have a cap that draws the water back into the radiator when cold. If you have an original style cap, the water will keep burping into the catch tank, and the cap never lets the water go back into the radiator.
If there is no catch tank, the water will just keep burping.
You can still buy 7 pound caps that will work with a catch tank. If you have a later style radiator, you can go to a 15 pound cap and a catch tank. I would find out from whoever made your radiator what the recommended pressure cap is for that radiator.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Coupeguy2001

Temp:
your condenser covers up most of the radiator opening. Your condenser might be too large for the opening. You really want more airflow over the radiator that isn't already heated by the condenser. You might want to try putting some spacers on the condenser so it is forward a little more and get some air to go around it instead of through it. Go out and look at your Mazda, and determine how much percentage of radiator is unobstructed by the condenser, and try to get that amount for your truck.
Otherwise, What thermostat are you running? If the thermostat is 180, it will not let the water temp go below 180. and slows down your cooling when the engine might be happy with a 160 thermostat.
Also, you might drill 2 1/8" holes in the perimeter of the thermostat to eliminate any trapped air that might get caught in that void on the outer ring of the thermostat.
It has been my experience with my truck that the water will seek it's own level unless you have a cap that draws the water back into the radiator when cold. If you have an original style cap, the water will keep burping into the catch tank, and the cap never lets the water go back into the radiator.
If there is no catch tank, the water will just keep burping.

You may have misunderstood. Her A/C pressure is 225 not the eng. temp.

Engine temp is 190. Nothing wrong with that.

Btw, I tried drilling 1/8" holes in a thermostat once. I could not get the car to run warm enough in cool weather. I would never do it again.

[mr48chev]

There may be nothing actually wrong and it may just take getting used to.

But, checking all of the fasteners in the front end and steering to make sure that they are tight and adjusted correctly is something that one needs to do along with checking tire pressure and alignment.

If there is an area close by with very little or no traffic like an industrial area or huge parking lot that is empty at certain times I'd take it down there where I had plenty of room and play with it a bit to get the feel of it. See if it tracks right hands off the wheel and see if it returns to center and drives straight after making a turn.

It almost sounds like the power steering is working so well that you don't have a lot of feel to the steering and that is throwing you off a bit. I have never seen a chart on the pressure valves on GM power steering pumps but maybe someone has info on reducing the pressure a bit to increase the effort and feel on the steering just enough so that you can be more comfortable driving the truck.

I'd still make sure everything is tight and then put some miles on it to see If I got more comfortable driving it once I had a real feel of it. My bet is that if it's set right once you get a couple of hundred miles behind the wheel you will be quite comfortable driving it.

[dicer]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Ok, sorry. When I saw Sid's I thought dropped axle. Still, check all the alignment specs. Mine tracks straight even up to over 100 mph. Not that I've ever driven it that fast.

I don't think there are any roads around Duvall that you could get up to those speeds on.

[Denee007]

I took the truck (I'll come up with a name for it someday) around the block yesterday evening. I'm getting my courage up to drive it to the muffler shop this morning. When I got it going faster, say 25mph, it seemed to steer fine, or at least hold a steady course and not be so squirrely like at slow speed. The muffler shop is about 3 miles from here and I'm really dreading the drive. I think it's mainly the sound resonating inside the cab, even with ear plugs I can't hear myself think! OH, and I messed around with the adjustable proportioning valve, seemed to make a difference on how it stops. There's no real weight on the back right now and with a harder press on the brakes, the rears start to squeal (rears braking first). So, I read that to test the PV(proportioning valve), one should test on a wet road or loose gravel road, but I don't have that option, eh.
Hopefully traffic isn't too bad~
I'll be back with a report on my exhaust on my build site
wish me luck!
dne'