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krazy_texan · 07-22-2003, 07:40 PM

i recently just had a misfortunate under hood electricle fire, lucky that i got it out before it caused some damage, but it did fry alot of wiring and now i have got all of it fixed and the truck will start but will not stay running what could this be i have checked and double checked, etc... everything and the truck will not run, but when it cranks it sounds normal like it always has but like i said will not stay running, guys help me out please this is my daily driver and i have been without it for almost a week now.

Kman · 07-22-2003, 07:57 PM

check your resistor, white cermic thing with two wires coming out of it should be on fire wall near distributer. you can jump across terminals to test lol

ddsmith · 07-22-2003, 07:57 PM

Try this out. The fire may have caused problems with the resistance wire that goes to the coil. That is of course if your still running points type distributor. I assume when you say it will start but will not stay running means that when the key is in the start position you hear it fire but when the key is returned to the run position it dies. If that is what you have, run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the terminal that the yellow connects to on the coil. That will keep 12V applied constantly. If it runs fine then you need to replace the resistance wire that breaks out of the wire harness above the distributor and goes to the firewall junction block. The wire is pretty noticeable because it has a cloth type covering and connects to the yellow wire in the harness.
Sorry I didn't notice you were running HEI. You probably are not using a resistance wire in your setup.

71GMC_3/4T · 07-22-2003, 08:06 PM

Actually, depending on who did the HEI conversion, it could very well still have the resistance wire on it. Mine did.

If that ain't it, I'd be checking things that are hot when the key is in the on position, but not start. This would be things like heater motor, wipers, etc.
Turn the key to on and pull the wire that goes to "batt" on the HEI. Measure the voltage there when "on" and "cranking". The voltage when cranking may drop due to the starter draw, but the voltage should be a full +12V when it's just "on".
Good luck and let us know what you find!

krazy_texan · 07-22-2003, 09:30 PM

i dont think it cant be a resistor wire because i had to replace all the wiring along the firewall.

ddsmith · 07-22-2003, 09:39 PM

It's real easy to check and doesn't require ripping everything apart. Sometimes it is worth checking those simple things. Maybe you can provide the answer to this question. Is it true that when you say it will start but will not stay running means that when the key is in the start position you hear it fire but when the key is returned to the run position it dies?

krazy_texan · 07-22-2003, 10:39 PM

yes that is what it does, what could it be

krazy_texan · 07-23-2003, 12:13 AM

ttt

ddsmith · 07-23-2003, 06:37 AM

That is definately what happens when a resistance wire/starting resistor is gone. You said all the wire on the firewall was replaced. I would check voltage at the coil as described in the post above and if you have no voltage one other possiblity come to mind. Several of the spots on the firewall connector are empty. I would check to make sure the connector from the resistance wire mates up with the corresponding female connector. One space off and no voltage will be provided.

krazy_texan · 07-23-2003, 08:53 AM

ok thanks alot for that information, i will check into it when i get home from school today.

doug72 · 07-23-2003, 11:29 AM

I had that problem when I had the starter wires on wrong. You might want to check that.

Doug

krazy_texan · 07-23-2003, 03:24 PM

could it at all possibly be the ignition coil itself

krazy_texan · 07-23-2003, 04:41 PM

found my problem, it was not making a good connection so it would not stay on but i just got done driving it and am happier than ever, plus to top that i have a job interview later today.

07-22-2003, 07:40 PM	#1
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	help me i recently just had a misfortunate under hood electricle fire, lucky that i got it out before it caused some damage, but it did fry alot of wiring and now i have got all of it fixed and the truck will start but will not stay running what could this be i have checked and double checked, etc... everything and the truck will not run, but when it cranks it sounds normal like it always has but like i said will not stay running, guys help me out please this is my daily driver and i have been without it for almost a week now. __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-22-2003, 07:57 PM	#2
Kman Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Melbourne,Florida Posts: 174	check your resistor, white cermic thing with two wires coming out of it should be on fire wall near distributer. you can jump across terminals to test lol __________________ New 89 chevy 1500 driver 72K20 rust bucket project stripped down to the frame engine rebuild started 71 Blazer - another procect

07-22-2003, 07:57 PM	#3
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	Try this out. The fire may have caused problems with the resistance wire that goes to the coil. That is of course if your still running points type distributor. I assume when you say it will start but will not stay running means that when the key is in the start position you hear it fire but when the key is returned to the run position it dies. If that is what you have, run a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the terminal that the yellow connects to on the coil. That will keep 12V applied constantly. If it runs fine then you need to replace the resistance wire that breaks out of the wire harness above the distributor and goes to the firewall junction block. The wire is pretty noticeable because it has a cloth type covering and connects to the yellow wire in the harness. Sorry I didn't notice you were running HEI. You probably are not using a resistance wire in your setup. __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper Last edited by ddsmith; 07-22-2003 at 08:00 PM.

07-22-2003, 08:06 PM	#4
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	Actually, depending on who did the HEI conversion, it could very well still have the resistance wire on it. Mine did. If that ain't it, I'd be checking things that are hot when the key is in the on position, but not start. This would be things like heater motor, wipers, etc. Turn the key to on and pull the wire that goes to "batt" on the HEI. Measure the voltage there when "on" and "cranking". The voltage when cranking may drop due to the starter draw, but the voltage should be a full +12V when it's just "on". Good luck and let us know what you find! __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

07-22-2003, 09:30 PM	#5
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	i dont think it cant be a resistor wire because i had to replace all the wiring along the firewall. __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-22-2003, 09:39 PM	#6
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	It's real easy to check and doesn't require ripping everything apart. Sometimes it is worth checking those simple things. Maybe you can provide the answer to this question. Is it true that when you say it will start but will not stay running means that when the key is in the start position you hear it fire but when the key is returned to the run position it dies? __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper

07-22-2003, 10:39 PM	#7
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	yes that is what it does, what could it be __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-23-2003, 12:13 AM	#8
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	ttt __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-23-2003, 06:37 AM	#9
ddsmith Glowing since 1978 Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Lusby,MD,USA Posts: 532	That is definately what happens when a resistance wire/starting resistor is gone. You said all the wire on the firewall was replaced. I would check voltage at the coil as described in the post above and if you have no voltage one other possiblity come to mind. Several of the spots on the firewall connector are empty. I would check to make sure the connector from the resistance wire mates up with the corresponding female connector. One space off and no voltage will be provided. __________________ 66 Chevy C30 Stakebody Dump, PS,PB, 327cu in 71 Corvette Coupe 454 4 speed 69 Chevy C20 Custom Camper

07-23-2003, 08:53 AM	#10
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	ok thanks alot for that information, i will check into it when i get home from school today. __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-23-2003, 11:29 AM	#11
doug72 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Plano, Tx Posts: 59	I had that problem when I had the starter wires on wrong. You might want to check that. Doug

07-23-2003, 03:24 PM	#12
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	could it at all possibly be the ignition coil itself __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO

07-23-2003, 04:41 PM	#13
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	found my problem, it was not making a good connection so it would not stay on but i just got done driving it and am happier than ever, plus to top that i have a job interview later today. __________________ Krazy Texan My Trucks are made with Wrenches not Chop Sticks 1967 GMC 3/4 ton "Johnny Cash" 1990 v1500 suburban 1967 Ford f100 Swb 4x4 "green bean" GOD BLESS JESUS, JOHN WAYNE, AND THE ALAMO



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