Pops and My build 67 C10

[ImNoSpaz]

I figured I would start my build thread because its time to get rolling!

67 C10 with AC.
96/7 454 built Vortec. Steel crank, rods, 11:1 forged pistons, .20 over, roller rockers and stock cam reprofiled, High flow high volumne blueprinted oil pump by Moroso, Cloyes timing, fluid dampner, totally balanced, serpentine, heads blended to intake, oil splash system, everything Chrome Molly studs and nuts, and he's still trying to remember more?
2003 4L80E Trans with my fabricated trans crossmember.
2.5 drop front spindles with 4.5" drop rear with bags.
3:73 posi with aftermarket disc, but may change to full disc rearend when the prices drop.
Heavy 1 1/4" front tortion bar cut to fit correctly with the bags.
All stainless flex lines for fuel, trans, ps, and brakes mostly inside the frame rails and inside the front crossmember.
Nearly all nuts and bolts are 12 point with squash nuts.
Stainless fuel tank.
All the airride stuff will be behind the seat.
SS Hood
May go with Torque Thrust wheels or stock Rallyes.
May go with a gunmetal grey paint with ghost flames (Providing I can sell my 68 Coronet R/T Convertible to pay for it)
The interior will be stock looking except for tilt wheel, and black leather seats with grey leather inserts along with the same headliner.
Other than that it will look stock
Pics coming

[ImNoSpaz]

Here are some pictures

[ImNoSpaz]

More

[NewType72]

looks great so far I love seeing new chassis parts I'm in

[ImNoSpaz]

Thank you

In case you're wondering why the trans crossmember has 2 rails, its because those 4L80E's are HEAVY! I could see the stock x member bow down and pull the frame in a tad when we set the trans, and the new ones from the "famous" makers do the same as well as won't work with the 454/4L80 combo. So it is what it is and didn't budge 1 micrometer when the weight sat on it. I also wanted an additional 1/4 inch clearance for the exhaust, and having 2 rails made that possible (smaller diameter with even smaller tubes pressed and welded inside those) along with being able to set the mount lower and inbetween for the angle issue... and less $$$ because I used scraps that I had sitting around. The only thing paid for was having the 2 side pieces broke to fit the inside frame.

Another thing is just about everything we have done utilized existing holes in the frame. Pops refuses to drill frames (Old School Mech) and everything has been powdercoated. That Old School Mech also shows in that fuel filter setup

Pops found a muffler man who was willing to horse trade. That includes coming to my shop for measurements instead of taking the chassis to him! Now we just have to figure out how to get it back to the rear with that gas tank between the rails. Over the rearend is best but we may have to compromise and go under because that long panhard bar takes up too much room on the drivers side.

[ImNoSpaz]

Finally got the exhaust done. Just need tips and fabricate hangers. What a P.A.I.N it was, but the simplest way over the rearend turned out to be the best after wasting lots of pipe.

[Farm Shop]

Any updates on this build??

[ImNoSpaz]

The bodyman we had do the cab skipped town with some $.
So we found another that had to re-do everything the first jerk did. He had moisture in his primer! Glad it took so long or it would have bled through the paint.

Its just about ready to have the doors fit then paint. Then finish the wiring and clean other things up, and figure out the radiator cooling issue, but Pops is heading out of town again for a month or so.

We are going with White Diamond Tri-Coat paint but the painter doesn't like the clear, so we need to find a suitable clear to make him happy. It never ends.

[Farm Shop]

Hate to hear that about the body man. We had a similar scenario with my dad's '64 Chevelle, and its still in pieces because of it.

I'm doing a similar drivetrain swap, and was curious what your plans are for the wiring. LT1swap.com has always been my go-to for pinout diagrams, but he doesn't sound very confident with the Vortec 454 stuff.

[ImNoSpaz]

Originally Posted by Farm Shop

Hate to hear that about the body man. We had a similar scenario with my dad's '64 Chevelle, and its still in pieces because of it.

I'm doing a similar drivetrain swap, and was curious what your plans are for the wiring. LT1swap.com has always been my go-to for pinout diagrams, but he doesn't sound very confident with the Vortec 454 stuff.

He got a complete wiring harness with the big connection block for this motor and trans from a guy who builds them. I don't know his name or company off the top of my head, but its all plug and play. He also recalibrates the computer to whatever you want, so being a 67, there will be several emission things nulled out. The main problem we have right now is the original computer is hiding in a safe place waiting to be found.

The next time I talk to Pops I will see if he has the paperwork with the guys name and number. Its well worth doing it this way by far. Everything is color coded too.

[ImNoSpaz]

Paint almost done. Didn't go with tri-caot but went with a medium shade of blue.

Getting the wiring done and having MAJOR issues with the Lokar 1804 shift cable kit. I can get from low1 to park, but not from park to low1. Or visa versa Many hours on this and Lokar seems to not be able to help. The main issue is I can't "correctly" use the rod that bolts to the column because of the big block and how close that part of the steering column is to the firewall. If anyone has used this kit, I'm all ears!

Farm Shop, The computer wiring is from Ron Francis Wiring (before he sold to?) and it seems to be working out as far as connections. Still have not gotten far enough to run yet.

[clay68c10]

That's going to be a good looker, I like that blue. Should run pretty stout too.

Are you keeping those slot mags? I think they look great on these trucks.

Sorry, no help on the shift linkage. If you can get the ECU set up to put the shift points where you want them it won't be as big of a deal to not get manual 1st.

[ImNoSpaz]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

That's going to be a good looker, I like that blue. Should run pretty stout too.

Are you keeping those slot mags? I think they look great on these trucks.

Sorry, no help on the shift linkage. If you can get the ECU set up to put the shift points where you want them it won't be as big of a deal to not get manual 1st.

I was going to go with white diamond tri-coat but pops went with the blue. It's kind of hard to add more colors to blue than it is with white. So black and chrome it is.

The slot mags are up in the air until its done.

Still waiting on the paint shop to move to their new location so that can be finished. Most the wiring is done, just need to rework the exhaust hangers and get the Dakota digi/analog dash in and working. Then the rest will follow.

Can't wait!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[clay68c10]

It’s going to look good!

I’d be interested in those slots of you decide to sell them.

[ImNoSpaz]

Running into issues with the bed.
Are these wood beds supposed to be raised off the frame with blocks? I can't get the 2 bumper brackets to slide in each side of the frame ends. They hit the rear cross sill before the bolt holes line up.
If I raise the bed, the body contour lines don't mate with the cab. I would have to raise the darn cab too

But, here's a pic of the finished bed. I still need to tap the tub edges down and secure the gas cap.

[68bowtie]

Beautiful!

Not sure this explains your problem, but the bumper brackets actually hang down at an angle. At least mine do and the bumper is really straight.

[ImNoSpaz]

Mine are not as much an angle as yours. We did get them working with some mods. Now I think they sell the wrong bumpers for these? They all claim 67-72 but the body lines below the taillights make me think there should be a narrower bumper, and it should angle in at the bottom as well as angle in at the edges towards the middle to mate with the body lines?

What size tires you have there? I'm just about ready to buy wheels and tires but have no one around to try out different widths and heights to get it looking the way I want. I have to buy wheels and not mount just to see whats what. Your pic is where I'm headed with the width. 10" wheels on back but 8 on front.

In the next few days I'm going to plaster a bunch more pics of the underside that's now pretty much done

[68bowtie]

I have 295’s on 15x10’s with a custom backspace. 5” coil springs.

[WhiteCST]

Do you have any more pics of your drop from the side? Thinking about doing that drop and pics aren’t easy to find

[ImNoSpaz]

Originally Posted by WhiteCST

Do you have any more pics of your drop from the side? Thinking about doing that drop and pics aren’t easy to find

You mean looking directly from the side straight to the frame?

[ImNoSpaz]

Some more pics. Just got it back from the shop today from having the rest painted and fitted Still have to figure out the cooling system with out doing away with the serpentine setup

[ImNoSpaz]

Well, new problems. Started going over the truck and found the body shop didn't install half the bolts on anything they did. And the ones they did do were either stripped or left loose. Not only that, they didn't fit the hood before painting it. We have been going over everything they touched and making corrections.

I do have a question: Is a 67 hood the same as a 69? I ask because once I got the hood adjusted, then shut it, the sides are a bit higher than the top of the fenders. You can pretty much see what I'm talking about by looking at the pictures. The latch is also being a pain. The post goes down and locks, but the "safety hook" does nothing..... it does go up into the catch, but once the ball is released, the hook is already out of the catch. Any help before I run out and buy another $5-600 hood? Thank you

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ImNoSpaz

Well, new problems. Started going over the truck and found the body shop didn't install half the bolts on anything they did. And the ones they did do were either stripped or left loose. Not only that, they didn't fit the hood before painting it. We have been going over everything they touched and making corrections.

I do have a question: Is a 67 hood the same as a 69? I ask because once I got the hood adjusted, then shut it, the sides are a bit higher than the top of the fenders. You can pretty much see what I'm talking about by looking at the pictures. The latch is also being a pain. The post goes down and locks, but the "safety hook" does nothing..... it does go up into the catch, but once the ball is released, the hook is already out of the catch. Any help before I run out and buy another $5-600 hood? Thank you

'67 and '68 hoods are the same and '69-72 hoods are the same, they won't interchange.

There should be adjustable stops at the front corners of the hood, they screw into the core support. Loosen the lock nuts and screw them down until the hood sits right.

Pictures of the hood latch and lock plate needed.

LockDoc

[ImNoSpaz]

That's what I thought. I must have a 69-72 hood. Just posted 2 pics of it. The front and back edge points are with the body line, but between there sits too high. The latch is the original 67 but I could not get the post threaded up far enough to get the front points to meet, so I put in a 69 latch mech and it worked, but the safety hook doesn't. So...... I guess I'll have to buy the right hood and have those @#@$%^#^% guys paint it.

I have the right hood, just manufactured like garbage. Man I hate aftermarket sheetmetal! But I got the latch all figured out, and it works fine. Just the hood was made wrong.

[ImNoSpaz]

Gave up on the hood for now, but a new issue pops up.

I'm trying to get the window glass in. Rebuilt the vent windows, and found someone before us had drilled the old rivets out and over drilled the hole in one of the vent window frames. Then I decided to go ahead and install the vent windows without the glass so I could finish up on the door glass. Having major issues there (in another post). Today I tore it all down again and installed the original glass. Not working just the same as the new ones, so when I went to roll it up all the way to take it back apart, the NEW window reg blew. Shaft out of whack, gears not meshing. Finally got it out and the guts inside where the crank shaft goes in was cockeyed, and the internal spring was hanging out. I never forced anything either!

REPRO JUNK

I can't find a pass side vent glass frame, I have lots of 68 up, but want to be 67 like it's supposed to be. Can't find a good window reg.

I found 1 window reg, installed and got the pass side working. No stock on drivers side. So I have to assume the problem was with the reg.