Bench bleed MC attached to booster - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Austin C10 · 01-11-2006, 03:04 PM

I just received the my reman'd brake booster to replace my old leaky one. I went ahead and got a reman'd master cylinder as well (was only $15 more). These two parts came attached to one another. Do I need to remove the MC from the booster to properly bench bleed it?

What is the best sequence for installing the new booster and MC after removing the old ones?

Thanks

**truckdude239** · 01-11-2006, 03:13 PM

when i bleed a mastercylider i always just install the mc on the car get some one to pump the brakes with the bleeding kit on it thats how i bleed them alot easlier

Longhorn Man · 01-11-2006, 03:17 PM

you can do it liek that, just let whomever is pumping the brakes that they need to go slow so it doesn't splash all over everything and eat the paint.

70rs/ss · 01-11-2006, 03:20 PM

bench bleeding is the way to go, because doing it on the truck with not make the plunger travel the full stroke. When you bench bleed you push the plunger in quite a bit further than the peddle will allow thus removing as much air as possible, then install on the truck and bleed the wheels starting on the PR, DR, Pf, and the DF. and hang on cause they will work!

junkyardjohn · 01-11-2006, 07:11 PM

SOME GOOD ADVICE

Austin C10 · 01-11-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

bench bleeding is the way to go, because doing it on the truck with not make the plunger travel the full stroke. When you bench bleed you push the plunger in quite a bit further than the peddle will allow thus removing as much air as possible, then install on the truck and bleed the wheels starting on the PR, DR, Pf, and the DF. and hang on cause they will work!

Sounds good. Does this mean that I ought to remove the new MC from the new booster (remember that they came bolted together) before installing anything?

dyingdeadman · 01-12-2006, 05:18 AM

i think you have to remove it.in order to bench bleed it.

70rs/ss · 01-12-2006, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyingdeadman

i think you have to remove it.in order to bench bleed it.

I too,

Just unbolt it and bench bleed, then bolt back up and bleed the brakes at the tires. It should be rather simple. I had a heck of a time with a clutch master cylinder on my 91, pulled it off then bench bled and just like that, it bled and worked beautiful. Sometimes they will not bleed unless you use the full stroke, because they do not pull fluid into the cylinder.

01-11-2006, 03:04 PM	#1
Austin C10 1972 C10 Cheyenne LWB Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Redwood City, CA Posts: 41	Bench bleed MC attached to booster I just received the my reman'd brake booster to replace my old leaky one. I went ahead and got a reman'd master cylinder as well (was only $15 more). These two parts came attached to one another. Do I need to remove the MC from the booster to properly bench bleed it? What is the best sequence for installing the new booster and MC after removing the old ones? Thanks __________________ 1972 LWB Cheyenne C10 350 TurboHydramatic

01-11-2006, 03:13 PM	#2
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,237	Re: Bench bleed MC attached to booster when i bleed a mastercylider i always just install the mc on the car get some one to pump the brakes with the bleeding kit on it thats how i bleed them alot easlier __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

01-11-2006, 03:17 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Bench bleed MC attached to booster you can do it liek that, just let whomever is pumping the brakes that they need to go slow so it doesn't splash all over everything and eat the paint.

01-11-2006, 03:20 PM	#4
70rs/ss Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,271	Re: Bench bleed MC attached to booster bench bleeding is the way to go, because doing it on the truck with not make the plunger travel the full stroke. When you bench bleed you push the plunger in quite a bit further than the peddle will allow thus removing as much air as possible, then install on the truck and bleed the wheels starting on the PR, DR, Pf, and the DF. and hang on cause they will work!

01-11-2006, 07:11 PM	#5
junkyardjohn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SOMERSET KY. Posts: 6,427	Re: Bench bleed MC attached to booster SOME GOOD ADVICE __________________ junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE. THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES// LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST

01-12-2006, 05:18 AM	#7
dyingdeadman Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: san marcos,tx Posts: 266	Re: Bench bleed MC attached to booster i think you have to remove it.in order to bench bleed it. __________________ 72 GMC sierra 3/4 ton 402 bb 68 GMC 3/4 ton 2010 camaro rs: daily driver



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