Is this a GOOD Fuel Pump System

[PA-IndianRider]

Saw this on CRAIG's List.... any good or????

Looking for a system that will be good for my SBC 383 stroker engine..... using two Holley carbs (600 cfm)

[Marv D]

Just my 2cents, I'd buy ANYTHING but BG. Expect to be sending it back to BG for rebuild in your future. And they don't do that cheap either.
I've ran Mallory gas and alcohol pumps for 10 years and never had a failure. Guys over at the YellowBullet have GREAT luck with Aeromotive and Mallory. Take that with however many grains of salt you wish,,, just an opinion.

[prostreet1967]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Just my 2cents, I'd buy ANYTHING but BG. Expect to be sending it back to BG for rebuild in your future. And they don't do that cheap either.
I've ran Mallory gas and alcohol pumps for 10 years and never had a failure. Guys over at the YellowBullet have GREAT luck with Aeromotive and Mallory. Take that with however many grains of salt you wish,,, just an opinion.

hey marv on the subject of pumps i have mallory and love it but it seems to hum up and down key on engine off fuel pressure fluctates running its fine is that normal. other than that its a great pump.

[Marv D]

Not exactly sure of what your saying about the hum up and down, but it sounds like a voltage issue. Most try to run the fuel pump off a 12 or 14g hot wire strung from a switched wire (or toggle switch) the front somewhere. NOTHING could be harder on a fuel pump. You should run a MINIMUM 10 or 12G wire straight off the battery to a RELAY near the fuel pump, and small gauge wire to activate the relay to feed the pump a SOLID reliable 12v, with a 30amp fuse between the relay and the pump. More ideal is battery in the back and the pump nice and close with the pump relay fed straight off the battery.

And one final thing,,, 99% of all car owners out there are under the impression their car is made out of copper! Why else would they just put a screw through a ground wire and screw it to the body! DOH,, not a good idea for the important items. ALWAYS run a seperate (heavy) ground to the important items like ignition, fuel pump, notrous solenoids, delay box, transbrake, ... Your car isn not copper and it surely doesn't conduct electricty like it was. Don't rely on a ground strap at the battery in the back of the truck to work reliably when your ignition is all the way at the other end of the chassis.
All that said, run a good ground and a good positivy feed and see if your 'up and down' doise doesn't disappear.

[djracer]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Not exactly sure of what your saying about the hum up and down, but it sounds like a voltage issue. Most try to run the fuel pump off a 12 or 14g hot wire strung from a switched wire (or toggle switch) the front somewhere. NOTHING could be harder on a fuel pump. You should run a MINIMUM 10 or 12G wire straight off the battery to a RELAY near the fuel pump, and small gauge wire to activate the relay to feed the pump a SOLID reliable 12v, with a 30amp fuse between the relay and the pump. More ideal is battery in the back and the pump nice and close with the pump relay fed straight off the battery.

And one final thing,,, 99% of all car owners out there are under the impression their car is made out of copper! Why else would they just put a screw through a ground wire and screw it to the body! DOH,, not a good idea for the important items. ALWAYS run a seperate (heavy) ground to the important items like ignition, fuel pump, notrous solenoids, delay box, transbrake, ... Your car isn not copper and it surely doesn't conduct electricty like it was. Don't rely on a ground strap at the battery in the back of the truck to work reliably when your ignition is all the way at the other end of the chassis.
All that said, run a good ground and a good positivy feed and see if your 'up and down' doise doesn't disappear.

Good advise! I wire complete cars and tons of car Audio. If anyone needs relay help let me know!

P.A. I have a nice mallory pump filter and return style regulator for sale. I'm trying to go to a single pump instead of running a seperate one for the spray.

[PA-IndianRider]

Originally Posted by djracer;2896425[B

........P.A. I have a nice mallory pump filter and return style regulator for sale.[/B]......

Sounds like a deal to me..... e-mail me the info & pics (if you have them): johnd.pghpa@comcast.net

[prostreet1967]

well i have a painless wiring harness i haven't ran to relay yet but i plan on it. my holley blue didn't do this but it would cut out while driving. bulkhead connector wasn't all the way tight but i already changed the pump. i know how to wire the relay but with the painless harness fuel pump wire comes out of fuse block into bulkhead connector straight to pump what or where would be the best place to add the relay? i wanted to do like DJ and put electronics in glove box

[prostreet1967]

sorry for thread jacking.

[Marv D]

I've got a Painless harness for the ElCamino I'm building and I'm going to use the fuel pump wire to activate the relay, nothing more. Painless uses a really good grade of wire, but there not very generous with gauge! My Camino is fuel injected and has a Wabro in-tank pump. I'll run a 10 or 12g down the other side of the car to a relay, and use the Painless wire to activate the relay. It's built into the Painless harness that the 'fuel pump' wire will only be hot when the key is on, perfect to activate the relay,, and in a EFI motor that wire makes a nice ''theft deturant' ,, no fuel pressure no start!. I'd do it that way (with a relay) fuel injected or carburated.

On the truck I run a Mallory comp140 pump, and back in the nitrous days I ran two 140's at the rear (deadheaded regulated) with the pumps wired off relays, BOTH pumps are alive and well to this day (10 years later,, i bought them at SuperShops if that tells you how long ago) one is still on the truck street driven a lot, the other is on my buddy's 10 second Nova. It really does make a difference in longivity of the electronic items.